(Topic ID: 141379)

Phantom of the Opera high end restoration


By jboner1058

3 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 months ago by MustangPaul
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There are 1132 posts in this topic. You are on page 21 of 23.
#1001 1 year ago

I cannot for the life of me get the stupid flippers perfectly alligned. I am off by like a millimeter every time i think ive got it. There is so much play with the stupid conical return springs I just cant get it. My Gottliebs have never had any issue with alignment because they have better return springs.

#1002 1 year ago

First powered gameplay test

#1003 1 year ago

Starphire glass is here and the flippers adjusted a bit more

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#1004 1 year ago

Anyone going to the Allentown show tomorrow?

#1005 1 year ago

Allentown picked up some new playfield hangers. I’ve tried to bend mine back as good as possible but they are still funky and take a little finessing to get in. Also picked up a nice cash box for $5 since mine was missing. Gonna clean and polish it and keep my spare phantom parts inside

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#1006 1 year ago

Going through the mpu now. I’ve got a bad 7406 chip on the lamp return. With any luck it will be 100% working smoothly after these parts come in. I already changed out all the toasted capacitors and resistor arrays, just need to change out the PIA and the display controller to kill that digit flicker

#1007 1 year ago

Coming along awesome man....that playfield looks great cleared. I think you're making me want to go find another POTO sooner rather than later.

#1008 1 year ago

Pulling chips along the display circuit and adding sockets

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#1009 1 year ago

Not that I will ever need them. New coin mechs

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#1010 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

I wish I had a nicer apron. This one has a dark square on the right side from someone removing the venders decal prior to me getting it and some of the gold ink came with it

Are you sure it pulled paint and is not residue from the adhesive left over? If leftover adhesive, depending on its nature, I've used alcohol, naptha, Novus 2, or WD40 to get stickers/adhesive removed. Of those four the Novus 2 has abrasive in it. You might try on a part of the black to see if any adhesive comes up.

I've never touched a DE instruction card holder so not sure if any of the above materials will help. On Gottlieb EM holders, where the screened art is the most delicate of any manufacturer I have ever treated, only the Novus 2 removed art. It was unaffected by the alcohol, naptha or WD40.

Buyer beware, YMMV, and "The enemy of good is better".

#1011 1 year ago

Its def not adhesive. Just pulled paint due to that gold not sticking. What sucks is the skulls teeth were touched up with whiteout so i will have to go back and touch them up with an acrylic pen since naphtha took them right off.

#1012 1 year ago

Either outright purchase or looking to trade apron plus cash for a scratch and damage free apron for phantom of the opera. If you’ve got a beater phantom with an excellent apron I’ll send you mine plus cash for it.

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#1013 1 year ago

You should check with the guys at Tilt to see if they can make you a custom one, unless you are looking to keep it original.

#1014 1 year ago

I’m kind of at my wits end with this mpu. I’ve changed all the display, the PIA chips and the display drive chip, all the caps and resistor arrays in the display chain and I’ve still got flicker in the display top and bottom ones place. It pulses every 3 seconds so it could be the timing/blanking circuit. So I’m gonna change a few things out there like the 555 and the transistor there. I’ve already changed out all the caps. I’m gonna hit it with the logic probe from work tomorrow and see if I can trace it. I get good blanking led light lit, but one leg is ready around 1.2v which should be reading about 2.5 so that could be part of the problem. It def had acid leak at some point because when I pulled the battery holder there was blue green crud under it that I had to neutralize. If changing the timing circuits out doesn’t do it I’m gonna look into a rotten dog. I don’t want to, but I want this done already

#1015 1 year ago

Man what a PIA, at least you know what you doing replacing those parts, I wouldn't even be able to begin to start what you've done already.

#1016 1 year ago

Marvel Artist Greg Horn was given a challenge by Marvel to Reinvent Iron Man. Not disappointed. This one is going up in the game room.

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#1017 1 year ago

Well its not the timing chip. Could possibly be the main processor, but im tired of throwing parts at the board already. This board isn't even really meant for phantom and would probably be just fine in a DMD data east

#1018 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Marvel Artist Greg Horn was given a challenge by Marvel to Reinvent Iron Man. Not disappointed. This one is going up in the game room.

Is that an original?

#1019 1 year ago

It was a print at Greg Horn’s booth at Wizard World Philly.

#1020 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

It was a print at Greg Horn’s booth at Wizard World Philly.

WOW damn good print.

#1021 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Marvel Artist Greg Horn was given a challenge by Marvel to Reinvent Iron Man. Not disappointed. This one is going up in the game room.

I need a copy of that print! Hook a brotha up. That’s pretty cool.

-1
#1022 1 year ago

Just got some of Marcos popper caps for the VUK that self destructed on me 2 weeks ago (I had ordered some from bayarea but they were the Williams ones and the hole was too small). I used PBRs VUK rebuild kits originally, but man do I love this new cap from Marco. Fits so much better with less play (which keeps them from hitting the wood) and is more robust plastic, holes on both sides for the pin to keep it in place (instead of flying off like before) with a deeper cup and taller teeth to keep the ball in place. Wish I would have coughed up the extra $5 per rebuild kit in the first place. I bought 3 caps and will swap the caps out at least sometime this weekend. I’ll save the PBR ones in case of emergency since these things pretty much self destruct over time anyways.

#1023 1 year ago

I “almost” want to find a nos guns and roses left side shooter rod for phantom. I don’t like any of these custom rose ones I’ve seen at shows (don’t look at all comfortable and some look like blobs of play dough) but the original data east one would be perfect

#1024 1 year ago

does anyone know where to get the Excellence in Quality sticker thats on the original glass?

#1025 1 year ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

does anyone know where to get the Excellence in Quality sticker thats on the original glass?

I’ve never found it and was debating on whether to recreate one using laser print gold decal paper. Still trying to find pop Still trying to find thick enough fish paper to make the template for the solid state flipper board. I wish I wouldn’t have tossed my original waterlogged one when I first got this to make a 1/1 template instead of a creation from scratch.

#1026 1 year ago

wait... what do you need? i have a sticker on my current glass but wanted to replace the glass. need me to take a picture of the sticker for you?

#1027 1 year ago

Yeah if you don’t mind and the measurements (width height)

#1028 1 year ago

I ended up pulling the two GI bulbs out from behind the mask because even the 2led from comet were too bright and penetrated through the mask too much.

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#1029 1 year ago

I fiddled with mine a lot to get it lit right. I put tape on the wooden squares for the eyes and cut it the same shape as backglass eyes.

#1030 1 year ago

I’ve got some black vinyl I’m gonna cut to shape out the mask light box a little better

#1031 1 year ago

Cutting new gold foil for the pop bumper decals and then I’m gonna transfer just the white masks to them

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#1032 1 year ago

Used a translucent gold foil so you can make out the masks better

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#1033 1 year ago

Damn, they look great, I'll take three if your selling extras.

#1034 1 year ago

Sadly these were a “don’t screw them up cause you only have 3 nos pop decals” deal. The 3 decals I had even though nos were so scratched up the old ones would have looked better. So I used a hobby knife to cut the gold away, then the Cricut to cut new gold circles, then had to spray glue the masks because the adhesive was too dry to stick to the foil. It was intense and I sweated out like a gallon trying to line them up perfect so the glue didn’t get on the foil

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#1035 1 year ago

There is still one more part that needs to get changed. The lift channel. But I’m terrified it’s gonna wreck the backglass artwork

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#1037 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

There is still one more part that needs to get changed. The lift channel. But I’m terrified it’s gonna wreck the backglass artwork

You could always take a razor blade or X-Acto knife as far below the backside of the lift channel as you can. I’ve gotten a good amount of them off without any damage, but sometimes not so lucky. There is an inherent risk either way.

#1038 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Used a translucent gold foil so you can make out the masks better

#1039 1 year ago

I used the high_end_pins Voltan method. You can see him demonstrate it here:

#1040 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

There is still one more part that needs to get changed. The lift channel. But I’m terrified it’s gonna wreck the backglass artwork

How about some kind of liquid and let it soak?

#1041 1 year ago

I’m gonna let it sit in the middle room with the air off. Hopefully a couple of 80-90+ degree days are coming this week and will help the old lift channel loosen up and I’ll do surgery this weekend. There isn’t any top or side trim on this either so I will be adding that as well. Pray for me lol. The killer with the woodblock method is the score window is also screen printed on the front like the mask and text.

#1042 1 year ago

I am so impressed with your work. I knew you would do a good job, but I didnt for some reason think of all of the problems you run in to.
I am super bummed that the t nuts got full of clear. Unfortunately I learned a lesson on your dime, and I am very sorry about that. I am super pissed I didnt test them before I shipped. again I apologize.
anyway I am super thrilled to be associated with the game, and I hope we can work together on another.
Thanks again, ron kruzman

#1043 1 year ago

(Doesn’t tell Ron about the clear I that cracked in a pretty well hidden spot because I missed a hole with his kit, and one not so hidden but the glue syringe helped) lol. Lol don’t sweat it Ron. This was my first full playfield swap on a nos so I had some growing pains. I can’t wait till I get my lockbar back so I can toss the glass in and just stare at it

#1044 1 year ago

I think I’m taking a pinball break for a while once this one is done to catch up on all the game console restorations and RGB video mods that I still have to do for pure retro gaming bliss I have piled up. If black hole didn’t take up so much room I’d add a funhouse full restoration project to the mix in the middle room but I’m working with a 7x11 space and can’t take the glass out of my games if I set them long wise in the room

#1045 1 year ago

Of course the only metal part I didn’t sand and polish is gouging up my expensive as hell chrome balls. The nos kicker arm for the ball trough had too sharp of an edge so sanded it down and put it in the tumbler tonight.

#1046 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Of course the only metal part I didn’t sand and polish is gouging up my expensive as hell chrome balls. The nos kicker arm for the ball trough had too sharp of an edge so sanded it down and put it in the tumbler tonight.

Ha I knew it. Good to hear you took care of it.

#1047 1 year ago

after reading about you polishing the metal parts so they dont gouge up the ball and wear the pf, it brings up a part of pinball maintenance/restoration, I call tuning (like a piano) where you do little things that take more than an hour most of the time, just so a target stands perfectly straight, or a target has spring to it, rather than being dead when the ball hits it. super little things, but if you area perfectionist, it can be hard to enjoy the game if little things happen often. At one point in my pinball days I couldnt play route games because they made me so mad. Now I have grown to bigger and better hangups. One of my flipper buttons has too much play in it. Ha.
If I had to put a value on a game that is tuned in,(I have only owned 3) its an easy 500 bucks, and the guy who did the work is not making anything, because it works out to about 4 bucks an hour.

It sounds like the install kit helped. When I look back, my projects would be so much better if I would have had it back then.

Maybe next year you will have a game in mind for restoration. do you have a title or a couple titles you would consider doing?

Thanks again for the suport, again, I was very happy to be involved

#1048 1 year ago

Funhouse is def on the list and has been for some time now. It’s a family favorite but I haven’t found one that is a good full restore candidate. Missed a mint one two years ago, and a buddy of mine had a rough players for 2700 but I’d be in too deep (like phantom) redoing that one since it’s roughly the same shape mine was. I don’t mind a “little” wear on early solid states from the 70s/early 80s because it gives them character. I’ve put $2600 into my black hole and it looks great and plays great with a touched up and CC playfield but there is still a lot I could do to it like change the drop targets, rebuild the flippers, and touch up the cab. But it’s far better than all the ones I’ve seen at shows except for one full restore at York 2 years ago so I’m good with it. Same with my close encounters fix up. It was good “enough”. But pins that are favorites of mine need to be full restore so I can play a game that not only looks new, but plays like new. Same thing I do with all my retro game consoles. I make them look and sometimes play better than out the box. I live within an hour or two of big pinball halls and museums so I can go play just about any game I want for the cost of a half tank of gas and admission. But my keepers have to look and play great because I’m not just trying to fill a basement with games (especially not my collapsing basement). It’s more about preserving them as pieces of mechanical art than anything. But anyways, funhouse, haunted house, ...possibly Addams if I could ever find one that wasn’t routed to death first. But I’m not a huge fan of dmd games. But love the theme.

#1049 1 year ago

I def need a pinball break though. This hobby has kind of devolved from a fun “hey let’s all hang out and play pinball” to “let’s screw each other over for profit” over the last couple of years. No hobby should be this stressful lol. But all my other hobbies have gone that way too. It’s especially bad in the retro gaming market now.

#1050 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

I def need a pinball break though. This hobby has kind of devolved from a fun “hey let’s all hang out and play pinball” to “let’s screw each other over for profit” over the last couple of years. No hobby should be this stressful lol. But all my other hobbies have gone that way too. It’s especially bad in the retro gaming market now.

Luckily there are still a handful of good people like Ron hanging around in the hobby. Dude is as genuine as they come no BS

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