(Topic ID: 141379)

Phantom of the Opera high end restoration

By jboner1058

7 years ago

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Topic Stats

  • 1,155 posts
  • 74 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by jboner1058
  • Topic is favorited by 52 Pinsiders


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There are 1,155 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 24.
#51 7 years ago

I'm very impressed captainneo. How much did you charge for that restoration if you don't mind my asking?

#52 7 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

After watching Phantom of the Opra yesterday I feel drawn to play this game. Does it have stereo sound like robo cop did? Good luck with the restore.

I recently picked up this title, but unfortunately ended up returning it after discovering termite activity.

For the 10 days I owned it I really enjoyed it and was BLOWN AWAY by the audio. It's in stereo and the speakers in the upper cabinet are 2-way speakers with a mid and a tweeter, so it's essentially a 5 speaker system! Bottom line, it was the best-sounding pin I ever owned, even better than all of my modern Sterns. No bullshit. Very catchy soundtrack too.

Simple and fun scoring-based rules. One of the best art packages I've ever seen. Helluva pin IMO.

I'm filling it's departed slot with GOT, but once I have more room I will be on the look out for an HUO or restored example.

#53 7 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

I'm very impressed captainneo. How much did you charge for that restoration if you don't mind my asking?

I would like to know as well, in PM if you prefer. I have a POTO that we love but I want to get it refurbed and cleared before any more damage occurs at the outlanes or around the trails.

#54 7 years ago

Awesome GI solder. Should I fix this? Worried about it getting some heat and burning up. It may be good though.


#55 7 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Awesome GI solder. Should I fix this? Worried about it getting some heat and burning up. It may be good though.


I guess my question would be is what was the original wiring? Was that braid added? Where did those cut wires go? In my corvette, they must have had a problem with one side and took the fuse out. Of course I didn't know this when I fixed the driver board. So when I replaced the fuses, one kept blowing. I started testing each GI line individually and two different lines lit up both GI strings. I finally started looking at the wiring under the playfield and I noticed that they added wiring to hook the two strings together. Once I removed that wiring, I was able to hook everything up like it should be.

If they hooked more lights up to one line then you might be overloading that string

#56 7 years ago

The braid was always there for the GI lighting. It looks like it was cut, then poorly soldered back together with a piece of braided copper wire wrapped between and soldered in

#57 7 years ago


#58 7 years ago

Damn. Great Project.
I own 2 and yours is in better shape than the first on I bought. The second has some touchups that are not 100% but it's playable.

I like everything but the scream - after a while it gets on my nerves.

Good luck with it. I'm following along and getting inspired.

#59 7 years ago

here are the before pics.




#60 7 years ago

Oh wow. Now I'm super impressed

#61 7 years ago

In the light of day with the glue removed


#62 7 years ago

Well, that couldn't have gone worse. I was going so damn slow too.


#63 7 years ago

I'm done. Not gonna pull the Mylar

#64 7 years ago

With the glue wiped off


#65 7 years ago

that's horrible. How did the rest go? And you flooded it with freeze? as it pops itself off? Should never have pulled this bad.

#66 7 years ago

Wow. I hate to see that. I did a BTTF and only had one insert lift.

#67 7 years ago

You got exactly what you deserved. Why did you pull the mylar? It looked fine. The parts of your PF that look like crap were the areas with no mylar.

#68 7 years ago

I've been analyzing POTO's and why they wear and flake why they do. Seems they fall victim to the same fate that gottlieb system 3's do. With gottlieb they used this metallic silver primer, which can't hold ink for shit. With POTO, it's all the metallic gold letting go of the black printing. Thats why it wears where it does and makes pulling mylar, very fragile. just use a crap ton of spray and go back and forth along the pull line. Pour it on and let it pool on there. Use light pressure and pull straight up or even pull back towards where you are going. keep it as one sheet and work your way down.

#69 7 years ago

I only did the top strip. I'll touch up with antique gold, and print out some new key lines. I flooded the hell out of it with freeZe spray and didn't use any pressure on it. Just sort of let it pull itself.

#70 7 years ago

Anyone know where I can get a new flap and sticker for the mirror, mine has a bad repair job. image.jpg

#71 7 years ago

Little shop of games has the decal. I've never seen the mirror hardware any place. Not even the spring in stock.

#72 7 years ago

When I get home tonight I'm gonna pull the Mylar from the pop bumper area. My shitty drag along hand scanner didn't do a great job and it doesn't line up at all. Going to have to buy like a doxie mini flatbed and stitch them together.

#73 7 years ago

Maybe I should try heat this time

#74 7 years ago

I have sent a magic mirror flap and side posts to cliffy. So hopefully some time you will see magic mirror flap at least. The side post I don't know. Cliffy said it would be a lot of work.

#75 7 years ago

I was able to make a close reproduction of the under face decal in Photoshop by scanning the one I had and mirroring. I can't upload at work, but when I get home I'll post the pic. If anyone needs it, it's in a 600dpi tiff

#76 7 years ago

Heat is going to yield the same results as freeze. I use heat religiously and had similar results. Neo is spot on- its that gold paint that is the issue. My POTO was fairly nice, but like yours, the mask insert was bubbled and caused a huge air pocket in the mylar across the middle of the field. I have already vectorized the top mask (big insert), so I can send that to you in photoshop if you want it. I am in the home stretch on my restore, just have some black outlining to do and final clearcoat work and re-assembly.

PDR_1572.JPGPDR_1578.JPGPDR_1574.JPGPDR_1550.JPGPDR_1570.JPGPOTO Mask small.jpg

#77 7 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

Anyone know where I can get a new flap and sticker for the mirror, mine has a bad repair job. image.jpg

Email Steve at Pinball Resource. He had quite a few parts for this machine (not listed on his website) when I was in need of some asseblies last year.

#78 7 years ago

Man, You guys are going to make me tear apart my POTO Nice to see so many in Wisconsin!

#79 7 years ago

I love this game. My POTO was similarly dirty and imperfect when I got it, so I tore most of it down and cleaned things as best as I could. Cleaned the playfield real well, but didn't do any touch ups etc (and mine has plenty of flaking gold paint and wear). Fixed flippers, switches, so that everything works right. So now I have a game that plays really well (fast!), and that's what matters most to me. There are plenty of times when I look at the playfield and think how nice it would be to have all the artwork perfect, but it's just not worth the time and money at this point. Fun game, great artwork, one-of-a-kind music, and a personal favorite theme.

Enjoy your game and don't stress out too much about the details.

#80 7 years ago

Mine has a couple playfield issues, you can see one in the pic I posted, right next to the mirror. Looks like it was cut trying to install or trim the mylar. There is another spot near the left sling other than that its decent, couple inserts the mylar is cloudy but they are not lifted enough to effect the ball. I've considered trying to pull the mylar because I would love to clear coat it, this thread makes it obvious I would be in way over my head. I did pull it apart sand, fill and paint the cabinet black then decal it. Have to say if your cabinet is showing its age this is the way to go. It came out awesome with the detail on PotO repainting would be a lot of skilled work and with the decals it looks brand new. Mine plays lightning fast I considered maybe putting weaker coils in because the ball does bounce around on occasion but with the Organ is so steep you kinda need the power. One other little thing, I found a batch of like bad acorn nuts at Home Depot they are like an off color, in the bin there was the super chrome ones and then a few that had slightly discolored and gone a little bronze. You can see the off color ones really well on the left side of the pic above the brown plastic. I was super happy to find them the look just a little old and fit the theme well.

#81 7 years ago

Glad to see you started a thread James!!! Favorited and I'll be watching the progress. Like ralphwiggum said, Call Steve!!

#82 7 years ago

I'll gladly trade my photoshop work once I'm done with getting them cleaned up in 600dpi tiff files, but I've got to wait until I get a good vertical scanner to continue (or get a playfield scan from a donor in a pm). These are just not lining up with the lousy hand scanner I have

#83 7 years ago



#84 7 years ago

I'm a great digital artist, just suck at hand painting. So decals for days for key lines

#85 7 years ago

those black line redos look amazing. Beats having to freehand it like I usually do.

#86 7 years ago

And that was just with what was leftover stuck to the Mylar as a guide since my hand scans came out terribly warped. I'm not sure how well the note/reaper will line up since the scan was terrible. If you want to trade scans for digital touch up work I would be down as its gonna be about 2 weeks before I get my new mini lay down flatbed docsy

#87 7 years ago

See I was thinking of decaling the cabinet, but the set I got had bubbles in the ink which turned me off, and the lines weren't as sharp plus it's not that gold leaf. I'm going to be touching up the playfield over winter, same with the cabinet, but the weather won't be good enough to outdoor spray again till the spring. Or I send it off to get cleared in a booth.

#88 7 years ago

Painting the details of the gold was just out of the question for me. My cabinet was rough it had a game of X and O carved in one side, it had been touched up and in a row of pins you would never see it. That side showed in my set up and the light caught the depth and it drove me crazy. For the quality your doing totally agree paint is the way to go. If you an average guy the decals give you a very nice players pin.

#89 7 years ago

True. There are some pins I would decal in a minute. Especially 90s pins. But this one has a lot of character (and planking unfortunately)

#90 7 years ago

Just found this thread. Another PotO fan here. Paul Farris' best work, IMO. I'll be following along. Good luck!


#91 7 years ago


#92 7 years ago

You are serious about the dishwasher? I had no idea you could do that, please post an after picture.

#93 7 years ago

That is the after picture. The before they were all black with coil dust and yack. Once I pull the small harness from the cab I will do the before and after

#94 7 years ago

That's a really nice vector Ralph. Yeah I would love to have it. As soon as my new scanner comes in I'll be going to town on the Mylar, and it's nice to see what I'm getting myself into since yours has similar damage. Flattening the big inserts heat damage is going to be the real challenge. Also, what brand and type of gold paint is everyone using? What's the closest match that won't get dissolved by the clearcoat?

#95 7 years ago

Since I mentioned the decal I figured I'ld post a couple pics. Sorry to invade you restore thread but it's kinda becoming the PotO club

#96 7 years ago

Oh no man, POTO needs its own club! This is becoming a group effort. This is my first pin restore and I picked a doozy. So better to cut my teeth on this so when I move to my next one I will know what I'm getting into. Sadly I wish I had more wiggle room in the cost of things because I will probably be 3K into this when its all said and done, and there are more popular pins out there for that price (my kids favorite game for years is funhouse and bride of pinbot and the cost won't be far from this when I'm done).

#97 7 years ago

And to be honest if my cabinet was as beat as you described, I'd have stuck with the decal. If the print quality was better I'd have kept mine too but it had some whacky print bubbles and I'm super picky being an artist.

#98 7 years ago

I don't have time to work on it this weekend, but I at least had time to test out some simichrome on my new polishing wheel on the keys


#99 7 years ago

Checked the coin mechs today. They need some work and the door is slightly bent. Don't know where I'm gonna find a data east coin box. Is it similar to the system 11 boxes? Seems like they share a lot of parts.


#100 7 years ago

With my luck the moment I get this all put back together CPR will announce preorders for a replacement playfield.

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