Bridgeton, NJ
I would kill for a sand blaster for these large metal pieces. Took me almost 2 hours to get th burn marks sanded off
(Topic ID: 141379)
Linked Games
Phantom of the Opera
Data East, 1990
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Quoted from jboner1058:I’m a huge fan of Gulf pinball. His boards are pretty much like the originals. His black hole power board was so good (and well priced) I am buying nothing but his from now on. Already bought his new power supply for phantom and his playfield driver board is on my wish list for it if this one is toast
Quoted from MustangPaul:Hmmm never heard of them, looks top notch.
He makes nice boards. I had a few Gulf boards in my Haunted House...work great and definitely reliable. POTO is coming along awesome man...you're really making me regret selling mine a few months ago.
I had to hit it with a sanding block and 800 grit, then metal polish, but because it was so pitted I couldn't get the polish black residue off without using some naphtha so i don't know if any protection is left on it. It was oxidized really bad. Had a rust spot on the left from something that leaked into it, and the heat from the boards turned the metal brown in spots. I used my buff ball polisher, but it got torn up with the standoffs so I didn't get it even or really all that polished. Again, no one sees it
Yeah those punched standoffs are a pain, you really can't do a super nice job on those panels, yours looks nice and clean. Maybe you could tape off the standoffs and use some high temp clear to protect the metal. The standoffs ground the boards right?
Can you guys tell which one is the original data East glass display and which one is the williams? I’m guessing the top is the Williams since it looks newer than the bottom one. I think I’m gonna list this one for sale and buy a red x-pin. It’s more cash than I want to spend (I still don’t have playfield glass) but I love the red
Yeah I'd say Williams on the right also. How about a white one and put different color jells in it to change it up once in a while?
While the target size was the same, the switch lugs were not (I needed them to be on the left of the switch so the organ can open) 
so I took apart the switch stack and Frankensteined it with the old one. Took me forever to get just this one finished
Quoted from jboner1058:While the target size was the same, the switch lugs were not (I needed them to be on the left of the switch so the organ can open) so I took apart the switch stack and Frankensteined it with the old one. Took me forever to get just this one finished
Been there, done that. Now it's both new and correct.
Quoted from Lonzo:Just curious, why are you not upgrading the connectors?
Changing them from IDC to molex? I figured with Home use and changing over to lower voltage LEDs and an led low voltage display they should be fine. If they flake out on me or get crispy again I’ll change with molex, but I had a metric ton of idc connectors
There were really only a few burnt connectors. All of the display connectors and the ribbon and all the gi connectors (molex and idx). I replaced the display headers on the mpu, and all of the display connectors, lamp connectors and ribbon cables. I’m gonna replace it with an LED display anyways so no more high voltage to burn it up the idx connectors. Yeah molex would have been ideal to replace it with, and lord knows I have enough trifurb and regular pins from my gottlieb repairs, but I think I’ll be good with these. Heads on now. I almost forgot how much larger the early data East are in compared to Rev3 dmd games because of the larger speakers. Using only the head bolts because The williams spring clip is too large for the backbox clip. Gotta go to Lowe’s and find a smaller one today. Terrified to power this on later to test the boards
Quoted from jboner1058:Changing them from IDC to molex? I figured with Home use and changing over to lower voltage LEDs and an led low voltage display they should be fine. If they flake out on me or get crispy again I’ll change with molex, but I had a metric ton of idc connectors
Makes sense. I guess I just always changed them out and kept doing it after LEDs. 
I don't go through changing all the connectors. I usually change the GI connectors and then if I have a problem with a connector, I will just change it out to a molex as needed.
So what is your procedure for applying the new IDC connectors? Is there a tool for this?
Otherwise, as I understand it, the factory had excess wire that they used to pull the wire into the connector and that excess wire was then cut off after the connection was made. That wire is not there today so it has me wondering.
I use a punch tool and mallet to tap in the wire. I just cut off the old connector wires one at a time
Quoted from Lonzo:yes, and I have the high score.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Damn that game runs hot.
Note: IDC is maxed out at 2.5 Amps per pin and the Amp ratings go lower the more pins you have at max current.
The GI runs at 20 Amps +or- an Amp; No wonder the connectors fry.
Quoted from vec-tor:Note: IDC is maxed out at 2.5 Amps per pin and the Amp ratings go lower the more pins you have at max current.
The GI runs at 20 Amps +or- an Amp; No wonder the connectors fry.
Really. So do you think a fan would help?
I understand they are almost 30 years old, but some of these NOS parts I get are more beat than the ones that were in the machine. I may have to rethink my decal situation as a lot of the foil ones are scuffed up pretty bad. And I’ve bought 4 “sets”
So I’ve bought 4 decal “sets” over the past 2 years, and would you believe not a single pop bumper decal in the bunch. Even though I know one had pictures of them in the auction, I just never opened the packages until now. What sucks is over the years I’ve seen a ton of them pop up. I’ve got tons of all the other decals though enough to practically do 3 machines :/ anyone wanna trade? I need 4
Does the top of your organ have spacers to mount the cover? Mine did when I got it but they were janky and mismatched. I think they were used to clear the ramp.
Chilliwack, BC
On my restored machine. I still get a lot of lift on the ball that hits targets at the top and sometimes doesnt hit the targets. Not sure if it is the mylar on the lip of organ. Or the clearcoated playfield. Making it play fast as hell
Magicchiz
3 different pop bumper cap orders using the same item number and I still don’t have originals I need the ones on the left but I keep getting the ones on the right because they are the “stern recommended replacement” and the only person I’ve seen with them in stock is in Brazil and doesn’t ship to the US
Quoted from jboner1058:3 different pop bumper cap orders using the same item number and I still don’t have originals I need the ones on the left but I keep getting the ones on the right because they are the “stern recommended replacement” and the only person I’ve seen with them in stock is in Brazil and doesn’t ship to the US
That one Pinsider is in Brazil maybe he could buy them for you then ship them here.
Quoted from MustangPaul:That one Pinsider is in Brazil
Was thinking the same thing. He seems to be a right nice person. I bet he would do it.
Mike in Kentucky
Quoted from jboner1058:And the tumbler burnt up :/
Oh crap your kidding, was it one of those Harbor Freight ones?
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