Phantom of the Opera high end restoration

(Topic ID: 141379)

Phantom of the Opera high end restoration


By jboner1058

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,115 posts
  • 69 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 days ago by MustangPaul
  • Topic is favorited by 48 Pinsiders

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There are 1115 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 23.
#751 1 year ago

I would kill for a sand blaster for these large metal pieces. Took me almost 2 hours to get th burn marks sanded off

#752 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

I’m a huge fan of Gulf pinball. His boards are pretty much like the originals. His black hole power board was so good (and well priced) I am buying nothing but his from now on. Already bought his new power supply for phantom and his playfield driver board is on my wish list for it if this one is toast

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hmmm never heard of them, looks top notch.

He makes nice boards. I had a few Gulf boards in my Haunted House...work great and definitely reliable. POTO is coming along awesome man...you're really making me regret selling mine a few months ago.

#753 1 year ago

All those metal standoffs made it fun to clean. Did you sand it?

#754 1 year ago

I had to hit it with a sanding block and 800 grit, then metal polish, but because it was so pitted I couldn't get the polish black residue off without using some naphtha so i don't know if any protection is left on it. It was oxidized really bad. Had a rust spot on the left from something that leaked into it, and the heat from the boards turned the metal brown in spots. I used my buff ball polisher, but it got torn up with the standoffs so I didn't get it even or really all that polished. Again, no one sees it

#755 1 year ago

Yeah those punched standoffs are a pain, you really can't do a super nice job on those panels, yours looks nice and clean. Maybe you could tape off the standoffs and use some high temp clear to protect the metal. The standoffs ground the boards right?

#756 1 year ago

Redid all the connectors on the lamp board

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#757 1 year ago

Can you guys tell which one is the original data East glass display and which one is the williams? I’m guessing the top is the Williams since it looks newer than the bottom one. I think I’m gonna list this one for sale and buy a red x-pin. It’s more cash than I want to spend (I still don’t have playfield glass) but I love the red

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#758 1 year ago

Yeah I'd say Williams on the right also. How about a white one and put different color jells in it to change it up once in a while?

#759 1 year ago

While the target size was the same, the switch lugs were not (I needed them to be on the left of the switch so the organ can open) so I took apart the switch stack and Frankensteined it with the old one. Took me forever to get just this one finished

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#761 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

While the target size was the same, the switch lugs were not (I needed them to be on the left of the switch so the organ can open) so I took apart the switch stack and Frankensteined it with the old one. Took me forever to get just this one finished

Been there, done that. Now it's both new and correct.

#762 1 year ago

I hate this part. Soooo many burnt connections

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#763 1 year ago

Damn that game runs hot. Maybe put a fan in the bb to suck in cool air?

#764 1 year ago

Yeah DE games all run extraordinarily hot, especially the GI connectors. They're burnt in practically every DE game I've ever seen, with POTO and LW3 being the worst.

#765 1 year ago

Just curious, why are you not upgrading the connectors?

#766 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Just curious, why are you not upgrading the connectors?

Changing them from IDC to molex? I figured with Home use and changing over to lower voltage LEDs and an led low voltage display they should be fine. If they flake out on me or get crispy again I’ll change with molex, but I had a metric ton of idc connectors

#767 1 year ago

There were really only a few burnt connectors. All of the display connectors and the ribbon and all the gi connectors (molex and idx). I replaced the display headers on the mpu, and all of the display connectors, lamp connectors and ribbon cables. I’m gonna replace it with an LED display anyways so no more high voltage to burn it up the idx connectors. Yeah molex would have been ideal to replace it with, and lord knows I have enough trifurb and regular pins from my gottlieb repairs, but I think I’ll be good with these. Heads on now. I almost forgot how much larger the early data East are in compared to Rev3 dmd games because of the larger speakers. Using only the head bolts because The williams spring clip is too large for the backbox clip. Gotta go to Lowe’s and find a smaller one today. Terrified to power this on later to test the boards

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#768 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Changing them from IDC to molex? I figured with Home use and changing over to lower voltage LEDs and an led low voltage display they should be fine. If they flake out on me or get crispy again I’ll change with molex, but I had a metric ton of idc connectors

Makes sense. I guess I just always changed them out and kept doing it after LEDs.

I don't go through changing all the connectors. I usually change the GI connectors and then if I have a problem with a connector, I will just change it out to a molex as needed.

#769 1 year ago

So what is your procedure for applying the new IDC connectors? Is there a tool for this?

Otherwise, as I understand it, the factory had excess wire that they used to pull the wire into the connector and that excess wire was then cut off after the connection was made. That wire is not there today so it has me wondering.

#770 1 year ago

I use a punch tool and mallet to tap in the wire. I just cut off the old connector wires one at a time

#771 1 year ago

Well, this is a good sign.

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#773 1 year ago

yes, and I have the high score.

#775 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Damn that game runs hot.

Note: IDC is maxed out at 2.5 Amps per pin and the Amp ratings go lower the more pins you have at max current.
The GI runs at 20 Amps +or- an Amp; No wonder the connectors fry.

#776 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: IDC is maxed out at 2.5 Amps per pin and the Amp ratings go lower the more pins you have at max current.
The GI runs at 20 Amps +or- an Amp; No wonder the connectors fry.

Really. So do you think a fan would help?

#777 1 year ago

Had to order another organ decal (underside) because the one in my “complete” set was torn

#779 1 year ago

I understand they are almost 30 years old, but some of these NOS parts I get are more beat than the ones that were in the machine. I may have to rethink my decal situation as a lot of the foil ones are scuffed up pretty bad. And I’ve bought 4 “sets”

#780 1 year ago

Ran out of rivets in this size so I’ll finish it this weekend

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#781 1 year ago

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#782 1 year ago

Those look great, do the first 2 have mylar over them?

#783 1 year ago

I probably should Mylar the ramp since the bottom always gets tore up

#784 1 year ago

Would wrapping the mylar over the front edge help any?

#785 1 year ago

So I’ve bought 4 decal “sets” over the past 2 years, and would you believe not a single pop bumper decal in the bunch. Even though I know one had pictures of them in the auction, I just never opened the packages until now. What sucks is over the years I’ve seen a ton of them pop up. I’ve got tons of all the other decals though enough to practically do 3 machines :/ anyone wanna trade? I need 4

#786 1 year ago

Left or right flasher bulb

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#788 1 year ago

Definitely left

#789 1 year ago

I prefer the left.

#790 1 year ago

Does the top of your organ have spacers to mount the cover? Mine did when I got it but they were janky and mismatched. I think they were used to clear the ramp.

#791 1 year ago

Mine does and yes they are janky. I took them out thinking they look crappy but the door doesn’t clear without them. You will need something as a spacer.

#792 1 year ago

Yes left, what kind of bulb is in it. Did you put those decals on the flashers?

#793 1 year ago

On my restored machine. I still get a lot of lift on the ball that hits targets at the top and sometimes doesnt hit the targets. Not sure if it is the mylar on the lip of organ. Or the clearcoated playfield. Making it play fast as hell
Magicchiz

#794 1 year ago

3 different pop bumper cap orders using the same item number and I still don’t have originals I need the ones on the left but I keep getting the ones on the right because they are the “stern recommended replacement” and the only person I’ve seen with them in stock is in Brazil and doesn’t ship to the US

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#795 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

3 different pop bumper cap orders using the same item number and I still don’t have originals I need the ones on the left but I keep getting the ones on the right because they are the “stern recommended replacement” and the only person I’ve seen with them in stock is in Brazil and doesn’t ship to the US

That one Pinsider is in Brazil maybe he could buy them for you then ship them here.

#796 1 year ago

Let’s see what I can use this for

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#797 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That one Pinsider is in Brazil

Was thinking the same thing. He seems to be a right nice person. I bet he would do it.

Mike in Kentucky

#798 1 year ago

And the tumbler burnt up :/

#799 1 year ago

Ouch!.

#800 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

And the tumbler burnt up :/

Oh crap your kidding, was it one of those Harbor Freight ones?

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There are 1115 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 23.

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