Phantom of the opera restoration


By jboner1058

2 years ago


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  • 812 posts
  • 58 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by jboner1058
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There are 812 posts in topic. You are on page 16 of 17.
#751 22 days ago

I would kill for a sand blaster for these large metal pieces. Took me almost 2 hours to get th burn marks sanded off

#752 22 days ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

I’m a huge fan of Gulf pinball. His boards are pretty much like the originals. His black hole power board was so good (and well priced) I am buying nothing but his from now on. Already bought his new power supply for phantom and his playfield driver board is on my wish list for it if this one is toast

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hmmm never heard of them, looks top notch.

He makes nice boards. I had a few Gulf boards in my Haunted House...work great and definitely reliable. POTO is coming along awesome man...you're really making me regret selling mine a few months ago.

#753 22 days ago

All those metal standoffs made it fun to clean. Did you sand it?

#754 22 days ago

I had to hit it with a sanding block and 800 grit, then metal polish, but because it was so pitted I couldn't get the polish black residue off without using some naphtha so i don't know if any protection is left on it. It was oxidized really bad. Had a rust spot on the left from something that leaked into it, and the heat from the boards turned the metal brown in spots. I used my buff ball polisher, but it got torn up with the standoffs so I didn't get it even or really all that polished. Again, no one sees it

#755 22 days ago

Yeah those punched standoffs are a pain, you really can't do a super nice job on those panels, yours looks nice and clean. Maybe you could tape off the standoffs and use some high temp clear to protect the metal. The standoffs ground the boards right?

#756 22 days ago

Redid all the connectors on the lamp board

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#757 22 days ago

Can you guys tell which one is the original data East glass display and which one is the williams? I’m guessing the top is the Williams since it looks newer than the bottom one. I think I’m gonna list this one for sale and buy a red x-pin. It’s more cash than I want to spend (I still don’t have playfield glass) but I love the red

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#758 22 days ago

Yeah I'd say Williams on the right also. How about a white one and put different color jells in it to change it up once in a while?

#759 21 days ago

While the target size was the same, the switch lugs were not (I needed them to be on the left of the switch so the organ can open) so I took apart the switch stack and Frankensteined it with the old one. Took me forever to get just this one finished

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#761 20 days ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

While the target size was the same, the switch lugs were not (I needed them to be on the left of the switch so the organ can open) so I took apart the switch stack and Frankensteined it with the old one. Took me forever to get just this one finished

Been there, done that. Now it's both new and correct.

#762 17 days ago

I hate this part. Soooo many burnt connections

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#763 17 days ago

Damn that game runs hot. Maybe put a fan in the bb to suck in cool air?

#764 17 days ago

Yeah DE games all run extraordinarily hot, especially the GI connectors. They're burnt in practically every DE game I've ever seen, with POTO and LW3 being the worst.

#765 17 days ago

Just curious, why are you not upgrading the connectors?

#766 17 days ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

Just curious, why are you not upgrading the connectors?

Changing them from IDC to molex? I figured with Home use and changing over to lower voltage LEDs and an led low voltage display they should be fine. If they flake out on me or get crispy again I’ll change with molex, but I had a metric ton of idc connectors

#767 17 days ago

There were really only a few burnt connectors. All of the display connectors and the ribbon and all the gi connectors (molex and idx). I replaced the display headers on the mpu, and all of the display connectors, lamp connectors and ribbon cables. I’m gonna replace it with an LED display anyways so no more high voltage to burn it up the idx connectors. Yeah molex would have been ideal to replace it with, and lord knows I have enough trifurb and regular pins from my gottlieb repairs, but I think I’ll be good with these. Heads on now. I almost forgot how much larger the early data East are in compared to Rev3 dmd games because of the larger speakers. Using only the head bolts because The williams spring clip is too large for the backbox clip. Gotta go to Lowe’s and find a smaller one today. Terrified to power this on later to test the boards

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#768 17 days ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Changing them from IDC to molex? I figured with Home use and changing over to lower voltage LEDs and an led low voltage display they should be fine. If they flake out on me or get crispy again I’ll change with molex, but I had a metric ton of idc connectors

Makes sense. I guess I just always changed them out and kept doing it after LEDs.

I don't go through changing all the connectors. I usually change the GI connectors and then if I have a problem with a connector, I will just change it out to a molex as needed.

#769 17 days ago

So what is your procedure for applying the new IDC connectors? Is there a tool for this?

Otherwise, as I understand it, the factory had excess wire that they used to pull the wire into the connector and that excess wire was then cut off after the connection was made. That wire is not there today so it has me wondering.

#770 17 days ago

I use a punch tool and mallet to tap in the wire. I just cut off the old connector wires one at a time

#771 17 days ago

Well, this is a good sign.

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#773 17 days ago

yes, and I have the high score.

#775 17 days ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Damn that game runs hot.

Note: IDC is maxed out at 2.5 Amps per pin and the Amp ratings go lower the more pins you have at max current.
The GI runs at 20 Amps +or- an Amp; No wonder the connectors fry.

#776 17 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: IDC is maxed out at 2.5 Amps per pin and the Amp ratings go lower the more pins you have at max current.
The GI runs at 20 Amps +or- an Amp; No wonder the connectors fry.

Really. So do you think a fan would help?

#777 16 days ago

Had to order another organ decal (underside) because the one in my “complete” set was torn

#779 16 days ago

I understand they are almost 30 years old, but some of these NOS parts I get are more beat than the ones that were in the machine. I may have to rethink my decal situation as a lot of the foil ones are scuffed up pretty bad. And I’ve bought 4 “sets”

#780 14 days ago

Ran out of rivets in this size so I’ll finish it this weekend

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#781 13 days ago

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#782 13 days ago

Those look great, do the first 2 have mylar over them?

#783 12 days ago

I probably should Mylar the ramp since the bottom always gets tore up

#784 12 days ago

Would wrapping the mylar over the front edge help any?

#785 12 days ago

So I’ve bought 4 decal “sets” over the past 2 years, and would you believe not a single pop bumper decal in the bunch. Even though I know one had pictures of them in the auction, I just never opened the packages until now. What sucks is over the years I’ve seen a ton of them pop up. I’ve got tons of all the other decals though enough to practically do 3 machines :/ anyone wanna trade? I need 4

#786 12 days ago

Left or right flasher bulb

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#788 12 days ago

Definitely left

#789 12 days ago

I prefer the left.

#790 11 days ago

Does the top of your organ have spacers to mount the cover? Mine did when I got it but they were janky and mismatched. I think they were used to clear the ramp.

#791 11 days ago

Mine does and yes they are janky. I took them out thinking they look crappy but the door doesn’t clear without them. You will need something as a spacer.

#792 11 days ago

Yes left, what kind of bulb is in it. Did you put those decals on the flashers?

#793 11 days ago

On my restored machine. I still get a lot of lift on the ball that hits targets at the top and sometimes doesnt hit the targets. Not sure if it is the mylar on the lip of organ. Or the clearcoated playfield. Making it play fast as hell
Magicchiz

#794 9 days ago

3 different pop bumper cap orders using the same item number and I still don’t have originals I need the ones on the left but I keep getting the ones on the right because they are the “stern recommended replacement” and the only person I’ve seen with them in stock is in Brazil and doesn’t ship to the US

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#795 9 days ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

3 different pop bumper cap orders using the same item number and I still don’t have originals I need the ones on the left but I keep getting the ones on the right because they are the “stern recommended replacement” and the only person I’ve seen with them in stock is in Brazil and doesn’t ship to the US

That one Pinsider is in Brazil maybe he could buy them for you then ship them here.

#796 9 days ago

Let’s see what I can use this for

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#797 8 days ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That one Pinsider is in Brazil

Was thinking the same thing. He seems to be a right nice person. I bet he would do it.

Mike in Kentucky

#798 8 days ago

And the tumbler burnt up :/

#799 8 days ago

Ouch!.

#800 8 days ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

And the tumbler burnt up :/

Oh crap your kidding, was it one of those Harbor Freight ones?

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