Phantom of the opera restoration


By jboner1058

2 years ago


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There are 812 posts in topic. You are on page 1 of 17.
#1 2 years ago

Let's see how long and what crazy issues I'm going to run into. Bought this on eBay with the description saying it was waxed and cleaned up with new rubbers and no bubbles around the phantoms face. Said it was in a home since 94 also. Obviously none of that applied, and there is heat damage bubbling up the plastic insert under his face. Now, should I take the Mylar off or not?

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#2 2 years ago

I already know the power supply needs caps, and so does the sound board as the left speaker only comes on after it sits awhile plugged in. I ordered new plastics and I am making a laundry list of broken parts and bad switches.

#3 2 years ago

Teardown begins. Going to need a flipper rebuild and new slingshot switches, but it looks like the flipper coils are new

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#4 2 years ago

I hate pop bumpers so much

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#5 2 years ago

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#6 2 years ago

I think it may have caught fire at some point

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#7 2 years ago

What's your plan for the playfield? Are you planning on doing touch ups and a clearcoat?

POTO was my first pin and also the first machine I shopped. The artwork and sound are great. I ran into a bit of trouble with the organ. The deflector that insures that the ball goes down into the trough was missing. For some reason, the replacement part I got did not fit so I ended up making my own.

Thanks for posting this.

#8 2 years ago

Unless you have serious skills with that kind of dedication/work, I would leave the mylar alone. Very easy to pull up artwork/inserts. It's very common for flasher burn on Data East, because they would lock on, I've seen the face and candles burnt to a brown crisp, you look to be in good shape. If it were mine, I would shop it out real nice and enjoy it.
Overall, It's a great pin. GL!

#9 2 years ago

Why replace a $2 electrical connector when you can just use a wire tie?

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#10 2 years ago

I would love to pull the Mylar and clear, find a replacement insert, use a decal for the phantoms face, but I don't think it's gonna happen. I will either send the playfield out, or just do touch ups on the unmylared parts and stick some new Mylar on them. I'm replacing all the mechanical parts, and all the posts and plastics, but I hope someday to find a mint playfield

#11 2 years ago

the phantoms face looks fine from here. Unless it's burnt from the backside and we can't see it. That wear edge ring is common. Mylar is tricky. I'm restoring a phantom right now for someone. Most of the mylar came off no problem, but it did pull some art off the wood in spots. Not a lot, but I peel full mylar off at least 4 times a week. It's not for an novice, that's for sure. Early DE and Got system 3's can turn into a nightmare in a hurry.

#12 2 years ago

As far as art and sounds go, it is among the very best in the Data East library.
I used to play this game all the time as a kid at the local beach side arcade in the summer when it first came out. Good memories from a time long gone now.

#13 2 years ago

It's not the ring that bothers me, it's the fact that the plastic is warped up in little bumps above the level playfield where the lamps were. Also, whoever worked on this power supply needs to slapped.

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#14 2 years ago

you mean the mylar is bubbled? that's common on all system 11's and early DE.

#15 2 years ago

No, the insert under the phantoms face - hard plastic - is bubbled. Not just the Mylar

#16 2 years ago

hard to see it in the pic. Won't be able to really see it until the mylar is off.

#17 2 years ago

Shoot NEO, I'd love to have you do my phantoms playfield. I've seen your work on your website and it is fantastic.

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:

I used to play this game all the time as a kid at the local beach side arcade in the summer when it first came out. Good memories from a time long gone now.

Same here except that I only played it a couple of times. This was back in 1989. Totally loved this machine.

#19 2 years ago

So far I've got 3 broken pop bumper bracket bodies, cracked ramp at the entrance, all of the coils need changing, I need a lot of new switches, rebuild kits for all of the VUKs and flippers, all new plastics and decals, new posts, new screws and hardware, new power supply since this one is hacked to death, caps on the sound board and playfield power, maybe the main cap replaced. Lots of connectors to change out too. Payed 1550 shipped, and will probably be way over the value when it's done. Remind me to never buy on eBay again.

#20 2 years ago

yea, your in for life on this one then. At 1550 you shouldn't have had to put anything into it. Never buy anything you can't play in person. Unless it's super rare and you will never see it for sale again. On the plus side. It's still on the cheaper side of pinball. Throw some love into it, look around at shows for nice used parts and you can get it looking pretty good.

I'm almost done with the POTO playfield i'm doing. I'll be posting some before and after pics. Been difficult because nobody has art reference pictures anywhere, that have the full original art in tact.

#21 2 years ago

In the light is the best way to see the warping

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#22 2 years ago

I think it can be saved with clearcoating and leveling. you might be ok on the playfield.

#23 2 years ago

If I had a hires scan of this playfield I would feel a lot better about this restore. But like you said there is almost no reference art. I may have to hit eBay up for one of those older flat scanner like Vid suggested using. Especially before I mess with his face

#24 2 years ago

Boards are out and head is off (I have really tight doorways and all modern pins won't fit through my arcade room with the head on)

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#25 2 years ago

i'll have scans of this field soon. As I scan in every field I do. (5 years ago I didn't do it all the time). So if you have an epic failure, I can bail you out.

#26 2 years ago

I have an NOS main ramp. PM me if you're interested.

#27 2 years ago

I have an original owners manual too with fold out schematics

#28 2 years ago

Took off the light boards to see the real damage to the center insert

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#29 2 years ago

Looks like a tough job, but that's a nice game to restore

#30 2 years ago

After watching Phantom of the Opra yesterday I feel drawn to play this game. Does it have stereo sound like robo cop did? Good luck with the restore.

#31 2 years ago

still doesn't look bad. Looks like it should. if there was heat there. That sticker would have been melted in an instant. If you want to see what a locked on flasher does to an insert. I got one sitting here that looks like it was charred with a blow torch. That insert is still normal. Flexing inserts are normal for a playfield of that age. Either up or down. It happens. It's fixable and not as bad as you think it is.

But during the flexing process, the outside diameter will expand and contract. Which causes your exposed diameter edges.

#32 2 years ago

As the Captain said, I do full scans of the entire machine before I ever start the restore. One of those scanners is a must. Depending on the level of restoration you want to do, it will be a lot of work but it can be done. Take a look at my Fire restoration thread and you can see all the work that went into the restoration. It's not perfect but I am really happy with the results.

#33 2 years ago

and use lots of freeze spray. The phantom field i'm currently working on, I used 2 full cans for that sheet of mylar.

#34 2 years ago

I never had an issue with Mylar until Fire. Seemed like a different kind of Mylar. It felt different than any others I removed. It didn't matter how much freeze spray I used, that stuff was gonna pull off the art.

#35 2 years ago

Why use a washer when you can just shove a paper towel under it to tighten the fit

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#36 2 years ago

It's gonna be a long term restore. It does have stereo sound (at least after an hour of the capacitor on the sound board warming up I got my left channel back). The music is great on this machine. I was thinking of buying a pinsound board to add some of the songs from the musical, but the music and sound effects really grew on me.

#37 2 years ago

I would have at least used a blue lint free towel. Guy must have been cheap. Lol

#38 2 years ago

Yeah or at least a nice microfiber wipe. Shopped HMU just isn't what it used to be. #ihateebayscammers

#39 2 years ago

You did a great job with your fire restore Lonzo. I've done a few coin-op vendor restorations, but this is a whole bother animal.

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#40 2 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

You did a great job with your fire restore Lonzo. I've done a few coin-op vendor restorations, but this is a whole bother animal.

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Thanks. I look forward to seeing what you do with this game. It's always one I keep my eye out for.

#41 2 years ago

I would love to throw all of these filthy parts and boards in the dishwasher

#42 2 years ago

When I was restoring my POTO, I made the mistake of ordering a Rottendog Power Board. Found out that the board was not compatible even though it was listed as such. Flames flew out of it when I turned it on! Had to have the old board worked on and now it is running fine.

I hadn't played mine in a few months and put about a dozen games on it tonight. I love the sound system on mine. Great music! Thundering sounds!

Of course, it is not as fast and fun as some of my newer pins, but I keep it because of the beautiful art work. I don't there there is another pin out there that has such striking colors and appearance. I keep it mostly just to look at it! I put bright red legs on mine and it really sets it off.

Mike in Kentucky

#43 2 years ago

I was looking into the rottendog since the prior board work is kind of jankey and hacked together on my power supply. It works, but I was worried about reliability. Now I'm not so sure i shouldn't just keep it and change out the caps. I do a lot of small electronic repair, but this boards traces are all cooked and there is a ton of corrosion from someone not cleaning off the flux. I know they make a Williams system 11/early data east that is compatable, did you use the one for their dmd games like lethal weapon and JP? Maybe I'll go with the X-Pin one.

#44 2 years ago

I used the original board that came with it. I just bought an X-Pin Power Supply for my Frankenstein pin. Haven't installed it yet, but from what I read, they are more reliable than the Rottondog ones.

#45 2 years ago

I might look into the xpin. Again my power supply is kind of frankensteined, but still works. I tried finding the big capacitor, but can't find an axial version. I do get dimming when I hit the flippers, and one of my light channels flickers, same with a digit or 2 on my display. I'm hoping it was all pins and cold solder once I get it all back together. Ive only got maybe an hour each night to work on it after I put my little girl to bed. Currently pulling plugs on the wire harness and unbolted the transformer

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#46 2 years ago

Slingshots and ball trough removed. Wish I had some more free time. I'm gonna take part of teachers convention weekend to finish stripping this and hopefully start the cleaning and bondo the cabinet

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#47 2 years ago

I just took approval pics of the phantom playfield i'm working on. This thing looked like shit to begin with.

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#48 2 years ago

It sure looks great now! Do you have the before pics?

#49 2 years ago

I sure wish I had a rotisserie

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#50 2 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

I sure wish I had a rotisserie

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I built one and its one of the best things I did.

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