(Topic ID: 102448)

Phantom Of the Opera POTO won't start/no display

By woofer768

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by MarAlb
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

Hello,

Phantom of the Opera showed up this morning. I have a lot of tables here but this is my first Data East. When I turn the machine on The machine says "I am the Phantom of the opera" and that is all. The display flashes for a moment before the audio call but does not come up. After that the table does not start or get far enough to open the test or add games. And yes, this machine was supposedly working when shipped.

I found some pages of the manual (I have ordered the full one) and I have fooled with the Cn1 - Cn5 connectors and the connectors on the display. Nothing.

A lot of disappointment with this one. But, if fixing these things is part of the fun... This one should be a blast!

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

#2 9 years ago

First verify all the fuses are correct value and good, then verify all operating voltages are correct.

#3 9 years ago

I would also suggest unplugging everything from the power supply except for the main plugs from the transformer and testing all of the voltages to make sure the power rails are good. Do both DC and AC measurements on the rails. The AC measurements will give you an indication how the capacitors are doing...the higher the AC voltage, the more ripple you have and the caps are starting to go.

The fact you are indicating that it came on and then essentially goes dead makes me think that something is causing the 5V rail to drop low enough to keep the game in reset.

Brett

#4 9 years ago

Also when checking the fuses, check the fuse clips DE used a poor quality clip and a lot of them break. So make sure to check continuity on the lugs, not just the fuse. Also check you ps connectors, real weak spot there too. Great game, love mine

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

Also when checking the fuses, check the fuse clips DE used a poor quality clip and a lot of them break. So make sure to check continuity on the lugs, not just the fuse. Also check you ps connectors, real weak spot there too. Great game, love mine

Is there a way to identify the suspect fuse holders by markings, a la the infamous "Scanbe" sockets on old Williams pins?

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from skquinn:

Is there a way to identify the suspect fuse holders by markings, a la the infamous "Scanbe" sockets on old Williams pins?

Not really, I just noticed on mine when I popped out the fuse, it came out way to easy and there was very little spring left in it to hold the fuse in place, some of the ears actually had cracks in them. GPE sells these very reasonably
if your doing that, you should also re pin Connector CN8 on the power supply. There are fuse's on the PS and Driver board, and up above the big cap next to the driver board. If it worked before , I can see it being either a fuse holder of a bad connector easily, probably got a bumpy ride!! If I remember right, I had and issue when I folded the head that it stretched one connector to the point of separation, might check that too. good luck

#7 9 years ago

Well......the audio board seems to boot fine since there is a "Phantom o/t Opera" call. So, there is +5V, +12V and -12V. The +5V can be at the low side causing the CPU board not to boot.

What are the LED's at the CPU board telling you? +5V and Blanking LED's should be lit.

Is there acid damage at the CPU board caused by leaking batteries?

Maybe there is a "open the coin door" message at the displays but there is something wrong with the High Voltage to the displays. Are the -100V and +100V voltages there? What happens if you open and close the coindoor, goes the machine into attract mode?

Check the power supply for leaking capacitors......the 100uF and 330uF capacitors, especially when the dark brown ones are there are famous for leaking. The 100uF causing the +5V not to be there, the 330uF sometimes causing to short the -12V and high voltage traces and thus frying your soundboard.

Good luck!

Marco

#8 9 years ago

Thanks so much everyone! I am going to go work on the table now. I will check the voltages first thing. I just noticed what the test points looked like on this machine before I left last night. The bad news is that, as I remember, the right and center led were on but the left led (that I am pretty darn sure is blanking) is off. Hope I am wrong. Would this mean I have lost the CPU?

thanks,

Norman

#9 9 years ago

Left: Blanking, Middle: +5V, Right: PIA

PIA LED should be off, sometimes it blinks a few times -> Error message. A few error messages are described in the manual. If it lights immediately after powering on it is probably failing to boot... Examine the battery holder area in this case.

Good luck!

Marco

#10 9 years ago

Marco... My new best friend!

The battery holder had been moved off the board and is kind of flopping around loose in the back box on long wires. I dropped the batteries out of it and the table started. I have not figured out why yet, but I am going to put a new box in.

One more question. There are no EOS switches on the flippers in this table. I have never seen that. Is there some sort of Data East magic going on here or should I beef up my fire insurance?

Thanks everyone,
norman

#11 9 years ago

oh oh...... Very nice your game is alive again. No magic there at your flippers, Phantom o/t Opera is one of/or the first machine from Data East with electronically controlled flippers. The circuitboard (TYFASI) board of that system is inside the cabinet, mounted at the left side panel.

Have fun with your game, she is beautiful!

Marco

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