Even the play fields that they have tons of interest in can sometimes take a year. They took that long to do TAF! So be patient.

Mine was March 25, 1990.

Can someone let me know which way the arm of the organ goes on? My machine has never closed fully, and I am getting frustrated trying to test every way possible with no results!

Basically does the elongated slot go on the top of the play field or bottom of the play field, and which way does the punch out on the arm go, towards the organ motor or away from it?

I have included 4 pictures with all the ways it can attach. Any help is appreciated!

9B1887F6-7367-418D-8F06-55C01A5DF9D6 (resized).jpeg

1B8EB7B6-BDB9-4B13-8EB2-461ABD10EC75 (resized).jpeg

21639A56-3394-47EE-B55D-37F078F3C21A (resized).jpeg

BF2E5FC9-7789-4D5D-9645-7BBF4A6B03B9 (resized).jpeg

That help any?
5EC04114-296B-4502-87E4-DC4EE3C3DCD1 (resized).jpeg

Not really since that’s one of my images out of my POTO from a long time ago, lol. It came with a spring on it but it appears there shouldn’t be a spring according to everyone’s responses a long while back. Manual is not helpful either since it doesn’t even show the arm...

But thanks for the effort!

image (resized).jpg

Which image? The one I posted? I just took that of my own machine right before posting.

Not really since that’s one of my images out of my POTO from a long time ago, lol. It came with a spring on it but it appears there shouldn’t be a spring according to everyone’s responses a long while back. Manual is not helpful either since it doesn’t even show the arm...

But thanks for the effort!

Oh really? That looks like one I posted years ago here on pinside. So you do have a spring? Mine had one previously but so many people told me it was supposed to have one... any idea what a part number would be for the spring?

Ok, I found an old spring from a flipper mech, cut it down and attached it between the notch out and the arm post, all good now, thanks Ceckitti.

Im sorry, just saw this. I would have went out to the garage and check my parts storage. I probably have something close if not exact.

I was spending most of the night tearing mine down. Got most of my supplies in the mail today for my clean and LED.
DSC_0188 (resized).JPGDSC_0190 (resized).JPG

DSC_0084 (resized).JPG

Joining the club! Such a beautiful underrated game!

IMG_20200503_225521_01 (resized).jpg

Well...my night is planned. They finally arrived and I can finish the top of the playfield!

AD20D70D-A5E1-45DF-94B3-80531A4CBDF1 (resized).jpeg

OK, i have to say.... Installing these is a major PITA!!! But looks awesome afterwards.

DSC_0574 (resized).JPG

DSC_0577 (resized).JPG

They are the ones that came with my game. I was thinking of replacing the targets, but they still look decent so i kept them.

Ok, so 2 weeks later I finally got mine back to cleaned, repaired, LED'ed, and adjusted condition. Was so stoked to get to play it again after the tear down.

-repaired/replaced handfull of coils, switches that were in need.
- Sealed the rear of the backglass (even though the front phantom mask is good now, i can see that it will start to fall apart soon.)
-cleaned up acid damage on main board
- Installed Titan rubber (wow! what a difference) Inverted the Rubber/Post colors, Black posts with Red rubbers. IMHO it came out super sweet looking.
- Installed Comet LEDs (beautiful! great product and service!)
- Installed Cliffy Mirror and hole protectors
- Repaired and adjusted organ (will need a new motor soon)
- Replaced stock DE flippers with "Boney" Flippers

Still have a handfull of things I need to do.
- sling shot flutter
- Pop bumpers are firing but not scoring
- Reattach score display (drooping)

PLus i took a crap load of pictures before, during, and after. So if anyone has any reference questions just reach out.

Like its been said several times.... its not a deep game, but it has its own challenges. Plus its freaking beautiful to look at!
DSC_0320 (resized).JPGDSC_0334 (resized).JPGDSC_0336 (resized).JPGDSC_0575 (resized).JPGDSC_0576 (resized).JPGDSC_0577 (resized).JPGDSC_0585 (resized).JPGDSC_0595 (resized).JPGDSC_0601 (resized).JPGDSC_0606 (resized).JPGfcde9dff9204ca7bef47f7d0eaaa1252dd05d4ed.jpeg (resized).jpg

Its not a difficult game to tear down and reassemble.The Organ was a lot easier than I expected. Although I did have a couple times that I had to take apart a section I already put back because I needed something under it first. Mostly the damn plastic stacks near the ball locks. Glad I took a crap load of pics.

If you could make a seperate thread and post the before/during/after pictures that we could all refer to that would be great. I am about to start tearing apart my barn find here soon.

Will do. Ill go through all my pics and separate the clear ones and put together a post.

I can’t be the only one cringing at those purple LEDs. I’m normally not one to get into the whole debate but it just seems so wrong on this art package.

I dont like the overkill on the purple that i see some do as well. But with mine I only used them in a couple places. In the Organ, because I felt it was a main feature of the game and should stand out. And also in the 2 inlane inserts and their respected Arrows on the playfield (normally clear).

If you are also referring to the upper left side of the PF.... those are actually Blue. I used blue because that part of the artwork is blue and has water, which is normally hidden by the ramp. So I wanted to have it show that.

I tried to make sure NOT to wash out the playfield with too much GI color. I have seen much much worse.

Basically....... I like it

I want to give a shoutout to Jaymach1 for repainting and clearcoating this baby- it had major wear and bad touchups everywhere when I got it- here's where it's at right now, and I couldn't be more impressed.

102957515_479331062860137_4315274536198604949_n (resized).jpg2ff28b99426ea86dfffdb2149feb23d3f1d8e57f (resized).jpege548bbcb04e826eb05948011628f276f6dc77d60 (resized).jpeg

Sweet baby Jesus that is beautiful! Please post when you get it in a cabinet and lit up.

Hey as I'm putting the playfield all back together I noticed that there was a TON of BEAUTIFUL art that's buried - any thought into making a clear catwalk ramp? I'm sure Freeplay40 might be interested, it's a pretty simple ramp to make a mold of. Or a red ramp with a clear bottom? Just such a shame that there's an entire plastic (of a badass phantom playing violin of all things) you don't see, along with the underground river!!!

I think they missed a golden opportunity to have a wireform there instead of a ramp! I mean, c'mon, it's a CATWALK, it's the one time that it would actually look right.

That the main reason I added a few strategic blue LEDs in the GI of mine. I wanted to bring attention to the underground river artwork. Unless you know its there, you never see it. Its a shame.

DSC_0225 (resized).JPG

DSC_0334 (resized).JPG

DSC_0576 (resized).JPG

DSC_0585 (resized).JPG

All set up. I bought a ceramic phantom topper and the restoration guy's built and painted a stage for it! It's got two lights, one white tapped into the GI and then a red one for the phantom backbox flasher. With the shadows in the dark it looks better than a 600 dollar one

IMG_20200628_095845 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200628_095848 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200628_100732 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200628_100734 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200628_100737 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200628_100743 (resized).jpg

Could anyone do me a favor and measure the width of their Phantom backbox? I've read several different numbers online, and was hoping for a real-world reality check. I'm supposed to be picking up a Phantom on Saturday and need to figure out which doors I'm gonna have to take off to get it to my game room.

Thanks in advance!

I can tell you for sure it’s over 30.5”. I had to remove the head off my POTO and my Playboy to get them in my basement, with 29.5” doors.

It’s actually not bad to remove the head. Not many connectors.
Plus taking just the body down by its self is sooooooo much easier.

Hey everyone. Add me to the club. I played this machine when it was new in my local arcade. 30 years later, I looked up the price and pulled the trigger on it. I’m having some minor gremlins I’m dealing with, but overall, very happy with what I have. Backglass is good, playfield is clear, and it sounds great!

I’ve put some LED’s in the backglass and replaced the flashers. I also replaced all the lights under the phantom face on the playfield with 1smd warm white frosted lights. The GI stays original as it gives it that Victorian/candle-like look I think.

2B8B5E88-E73A-403C-BE50-CBBBDAA83DFD (resized).jpeg

41977E6E-4D1D-4BE4-BD00-B1BDA7C39B87 (resized).jpeg

61F44462-C9A9-42D0-8571-A8C25965907B (resized).jpeg

E6260DF3-F91D-493F-AA19-A95B2CB34097 (resized).jpeg

I think your drive arm is wrong.
pasted_image (resized).png

Man, that’s a very nice PF and BG. Good find!

Several segments of my display went out including the entire top line of the top line. I replaced with a pinscore and like the results a lot. I’m also incompetent when it comes to fixing anything, and this was easy. Top is new bottom is original

E7ECD38B-39DE-45E9-9DC2-73356C9F60CC (resized).jpeg

Just thinking that- you NEVER see POTOs for sale without burned inserts and wear near the apron. If you got this at or below average it was a steal.

I appreciate that! It wasn’t actually for sale. I used another site that listed everyone that owned a phantom within a thousand miles of me and started emailing them one by one asking if they would part their pin. One guy said he would be willing and I got Bob Cunningham to pick it up and bring it to me.

It’s not perfect - I’m having a light issue that’s driving me nuts. The display needed replacing and the game randomly reboots if I leave it on for a time and then try to play it. I’ve got a local guy coming to take a look at it because I almost burned down the house the last time I tried to solder.

But overall, I’m VERY happy.

Question: Has anyone had an issue where you’re playing mid game and the system gives a blast of static and then reboots? It’s happening more and more frequently to me and I don’t even know where to start with trying to fix it

Jiggle the big square connector on the power supply ( upper left board). See if you can get it to act up. Also see if that connector looks burnt

Change the power supply isolation +5 volts ic caps.

this

Thanks for the tip!

I'm looking for a working 520-5000-00 power supply board for POTO if anyone has one. If not, does anyone know if a board from a Data East Version 3 game like TFTC will work in a Version 2 game like POTO? It looks like the AC connector (CN1) is identical. But not sure about the input voltages and pinout from the transformer.

I found this from Pinwiki. The only difference between 520-5000-00 and 520-5047-00 seems to be the high voltage display circuit. So supposedly, I can swap these out and leave the high voltage display power unplugged. I'm asking to test for a friend's Data East Version 2 POTO using a Version 3 power supply from a 128x16 game, as I don't have any Version 2 games with the 100% correct power supply.

Part Number 520-5000-00
This power supply was used on games with alphanumeric displays such as "The Simpsons". It creates both +100 and -100 volts to operate the plasma score displays. Typical problems with this board include:

Burned general illumination connections and connectors.
Pins on CN1, called a "wafer" connector, burn. You can safely exchange the unused pins at positions 5 and 8 for burned pins in a pinch.
The fuse clips are brittle, and fracture easily or lose their tension, a common theme across all Data East power supplies.
This power supply is compatible with the D-8345-XXX power supply from Williams and vice versa.

Data East 520-5047-00 Power Supply

Part Number 520-5047-00
This power supply was used on the five games (Checkpoint, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, Batman, Star Trek, and Hook) which used the smaller 128 x 16 DMD. One thing which makes this power supply stand out at a glance are the two large 10W power resistors installed on the unit. Other things which make it different from the power supply used with a "standard" 128 x 32 DMD are:

The use of MJE340 and MJE350 high voltage transistors versus MJE15030 and MJE15031 transistors.
While compatible, the -00 should not be used as a replacement for the -01 power supply. The -01 is capable of delivering higher currents and is more robust.

I ended up buying a replacement power supply from x-pin. They had exactly the correct one, and it works perfectly in my phantom. Think it was around $139, slightly more expensive than the rottendog or other options, but it seems higher quality and it was actually in stock.

So I'd recommend the x-pin board. But I do agree that the different DE power supply generations appear very similar

What issues were you having to led you to buy the replacement? Ive been having some odd hard reboots lately on mine. Might be looking to buy an upgraded board since i play to keep the machine for a long time.

Well, I bought mine as a project. It had a burned up GI connector and several other connectors and pins on the PS were charred too. It was in a tattoo parlor before I bought it, and it was still incandescents at the time. So my guess is that it got left on all day and possibly overnight and stuff burned up.

The PS was very crispy looking and was gonna require at-a-minimum a lot of new pins. So I decided to go ahead and buy a new PS. I still had to re-pin a crap ton of wires, and replace several burned connectors outright. But I figured having a new PS would eliminate some variables and then I could still attempt to repair the old one when I found the time or motivation. Hasn't happened yet! Plus the game had other issues too, so having a few less things to do was handy.

There's a certain point where a person has more money than time!

I got mine from the operator I work for. I guess we sold the game to a customer WAY back in the early/mid 90s. They had it in their house for pretty much all of its life. They traded it back for something else the grandkids would rather want about 7 years ago. So I snatched it up right away when it came in. It then sat in my garage ever since when I took a hiatus from the hobby. Well then covid happened and i got laid off. So I dug it out of the garage and brought it in and went over it.
Surprisingly all the was wrong with it was broken wire on a flipper, the stand up banks were working, and the trapdoor vuk was broken.
I fixed the flipper and vuk. But the stand ups seemed to be a board problem, so I threw in my spare driver board (from a parted Turtles) and they all started working again.
Then tore it all apart, polished, LEDs, Titans, and she is now ready for the prom lol.

But now lately she has been getting cranky and out of the blue will make a loud nasty noise, fire a few coils and then shut down and reboot. Wont matter if its in a game or sitting in attract. Havent dived too far into it yet, but like i said... might just buy a new PS to fix it and update it.