Pecos' Gottlieb 1952 Queen of Hearts Restoration

(Topic ID: 206523)

Pecos' Gottlieb 1952 Queen of Hearts Restoration


By Pecos

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 70 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 months ago by PinballFever
  • Topic is favorited by 15 Pinsiders

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There are 70 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 1 year ago

Novus 2. Front and back of plastics... amazing stuff.

#52 1 year ago
Quoted from NicoVolta:

Novus 2. Front and back of plastics... amazing stuff.

Okay, Nic and Colsond3, I'll give it a go, a teeny tiny test that is, if it has your seal of approval. These plastics are 65 years old. I treat them like they are as brittle as potato chips, not the wavy kind or the kettle cooked kind but the bargain basement wafer thin kind!

#53 1 year ago

"It's only wafer thin..."

*KABOOM*

Yes, a 'lil test first, just a 'lil test. Plastics of that vintage might not be as agreeable as the 60's and 70's variety...

#54 1 year ago
Quoted from NicoVolta:

"It's only wafer thin..."
*KABOOM*
Yes, a 'lil test first, just a 'lil test. Plastics of that vintage might not be as agreeable as the 60's and 70's variety...

Agreed, but I've never had a problem using it. CP 100 is something you should definitely grab also. Not abrasive at all, and non water-based so it can be used anywhere on the game. I even use it lightly with Magic Eraser frequently with no issues, even on playfields. Just always test it out in a small inconspicuous area first.

#55 1 year ago

Novus 2 ordinarily works wonders on plastics, but the formula for plastic was not the same then as it was in the 70s or even the 60s. The older the game, the worse it gets, with bumper bodies and posts collapsing in on themselves.

Testing any cleaner will be fine, but you can't reverse the goo-ifying/shrinking process. So, as has been said, they will only get but so clean if you keep original.

#56 1 year ago

Gemini CP-100 (the blue liquid) is mostly naphtha, sans the odor. I use it more than any other pinball cleaning product. It can be used on wood, plastic and metal.

#57 1 year ago

Ok, before you ask - this is THE best technique for making rails/legs etc look good with minimum effort. Alan Lewis video.

#58 1 year ago

I removed the relay bank from the bottom of the playfield and cleaned and adjusted all switches. One row, or is it a column
, was supposed to be normally open, but were all closed. I guess that is what happens after 65 years.

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The slingshot and flippers were taken apart, cleaned, polished and put back together again. One of the flipper bushings was broken and...

Quoted from ZNET:

When you order that tray liner from PBR, don't forget to order the correct flippers (white with raised blue lettering).

Edit: I meant "recessed" but typed "raised." The blue ink can be added to original flippers fairly easily, with a magnifier, if you find unwarped originals in need of a facelift.

Quoted from pintoys:

Lettering is not raised it is incused on the flippers. Raised was used on mostly Bally flippers.

...so I will have to wait to order the parts I need for the flippers until I can put them back together again.

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These flippers are a little bit different than what I am used to, but not much. The return spring is unusual.

After:

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These Gottliebs run clean - not a lot of cleaning needed on either the slingshots or flippers, making for easy work.

#59 1 year ago

Bank looks great and solid. Nice and shiny again. Keep it up!!

#60 1 year ago
Quoted from ZNET:

Neyens has noted that of all of his designs, Queen of Hearts is his #1 favorite.

Quoted from bingopodcast:

He is especially proud of the circuit involved with the ball return from the gobble holes.

I've started work on the high-cards switch matrix under the playfield - Part of the circuit that Neyens was so proud of. Looking at the pics below, you can see why.

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I removed each row of switches at a time, starting at the front. Or was it columns? That depends on your POP, Point of Perspective. Any which way, each row, or column, was taped with masking tape so the individual switches wouldn't get mixed up.

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All rollover wire-forms and screws were polished with Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. The switches were cleaned with Isopropyl alcohol and polished with the Magic Brush - a Dremel #443 Carbon Steel Brush.

I cleaned the metal base plate and ball guide with Gain dishwasher detergent and Bon Ami. Then I used Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish to shine, and more importantly, smooth it up. Don't want those pinballs riding on rough rails!

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You can see how dirty this piece was after so much use. I doubt if this part has seen the light of day for 65 years until I removed it.

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The rebuild has been started, from back to front.

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Lots of shiny parts! I like shiny parts!!

#61 1 year ago

Keep going Pecos! Don’t forget you can polish all the metal plungers too. Especially helps on those older woodies with the metal sleeves (and a thinly brushed coating of Finish Line/3-in-1/whatever your pleasure).

I do it on the flipper shafts too... metal-on-metal and all that.

#62 1 year ago

Looking good- this is a lot of picky work and totally worth it, game will be super fun to play when your done!!

#63 1 year ago

Wow!!! That massive matrix of elevated switches on the multiple troughs is really something. I've not seen something like that before. Thanks for documenting this so well, Pecos! Like everyone else, I'm waiting with baited breath for your finished product. Great work this far!

#64 1 year ago

For anyone that might be interested: I've reviewed the circuit on my copy of the schematic! It shares quite a bit in common with the scoring circuits in the bingo pinballs.

Between the design of the circuit and the physical layout, it is indeed something to be proud of - no EMI causing false switch closures is pretty darn impressive. Also that the ball can roll down with speed and it will trigger each of those switches at the appropriate time.

I am curious if there will be some fine tuning of these switches once you are in testing mode, or if it is pretty tolerant to minor variations in switch tension.

#65 1 year ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

For anyone that might be interested: I've reviewed the circuit on my copy of the schematic! It shares quite a bit in common with the scoring circuits in the bingo pinballs.

That's really interesting and also makes a lot of sense, as Wayne has mentioned that he pretty much didn't even look at most of what the competition was doing, aside from the bingo circuitry. Very cool observation, Nick.

#66 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

50's plastics are unlike anything else.
Try and flatten and they will break.
And the stickiness does not come off - some sort of chemical reaction to the plastics being heated over the years.
If lucky enough to have original plastics, I just leave them be and buy a repro set as a back up.
http://shayarcadegroup.com

I know of one guy here that had the same problem and he coated his old plastics with clear coat and got rid of the stickyness, seems to have worked AFAIK.

1 month later
#67 11 months ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Ok, before you ask - this is THE best technique for making rails/legs etc look good with minimum effort. Alan Lewis video.

» YouTube video

Thanks for the link, I've been wanting to do mine but wasn't sure how. Will try this out.

4 weeks later
#68 10 months ago
Quoted from Pecos:

Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish

Do you know if it removes the protective galvanized coating on the metals and if so, does it protect the metal after removing the coating?

#69 10 months ago
Quoted from PinballFever:

Do you know if it removes the protective galvanized coating on the metals and if so, does it protect the metal after removing the coating?

I do not know. The label say that it "Shines and Protects." Also, "Not recommended for chrome or gold plating, anodized, painted or coated metal surfaces. If black residue does not appear STOP - it is not a polishable metal."

#70 10 months ago

Ok. I'll try it out. I'm doing a minimal restoration on a game almost as old as yours.

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There are 70 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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