Party Zone
Bally, 1991You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Budwin.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from patrickvc:I've been getting frustrated ever since I got my Party Zone because of the amount of time the ball zooms to the outlane and nudging didn't seem to help. I decided to change out the post from the sleeve to the more traditional post and rubber and its been 100 percent improvement. Just throwing this out there for fellow Party Zoners
I changed those out lane post bumpers too. It still drains a lot, but better.
Quoted from sibi:Also start colourisation for pin2dmd.
Wow, NICE !
ColorDMD better get busy or pin2dmd is going to win the race on PZ ......
Quoted from Langless28:Just finished this. I think it’s pretty cool. Uv lights only on when the red GI string is active.
[quoted image]
Would you mind sharing the LED type, mfg?
Quoted from Dee-Bow:I noticed your cliffy is lifted in the front the same as mine..I just removed mine until I find some better 2-sided tape. The 3-m stuff didnt hold it down. Definitely need to add them springs though..too mang rejects in that saucer..even without the cliffy!
.
I just removed all the tape and flip my Cliffy after it bends up in front.
Seems no tape or glue can hold it, so I decided not to fight it. 
Bud
Quoted from Langless28:of course!
amazon.com link »
I finally added the UV LED strips on my PZ and WOW ! 
I did no realize all the art was in Black Light colors, now it really pops !
I'll bet the original designers would have loved to put UV lights in there.
I also added my wiring for these two UV strips. (4 connections to the driver board) 
The 12V is really unregulated ~15-16V DC so the UV lights are a bit brighter.
Also if the relay buzzes use a capacitor like 220uF or more.
Thanks to Langless28 for a great IDEA !
PZ with UV (resized).JPGGI AC relay (resized).jpgQuoted from Langless28:Just finished this. I think it’s pretty cool. UV lights only on when the red GI string is active.
[quoted image]
Well, I could try different GI outputs for best effect, but the red GI seems OK.
If I had a 6vac relay laying around, I would have used it. 
I did Google for a 6vac coil relay and did find one.
I just use what ever parts are in my junk box.
6VAC relay (resized).JPGQuoted from Langless28:you could have skipped the bridge rectifier and just used a 6VAC relay.
also you have this so its always on, the red GI is Always on, its the other white GI that switch on/off to differential the effect. i would hook the relay up to a white GI string and have the LEDS on the NC side of the relay.
Do you know the J120 pins for the best effect GI output?
I used the RED GI which is Brown and WHT/BRN (pins 1 & 7)
GI wires (resized).JPGQuoted from Langless28:I can look when i get home but the idea is to have the UV on when all the WHITE GI is OFF.
RED GI is always lit no matter what (unless all lights are off), you cannot notice RED GI when red and white are both on.
so the idea was to connect the UV to the NC relay and connect the relay to any string of GI other than the RED GI.
so when White GI is ON, NC relay is actually open=no UV and when white GI is OFF, NC relay turns on the UV.
That makes sense, I'll give that a try. 
Thanks
Quoted from Budwin:That makes sense, I'll give that a try.
Thanks
Updated schematic of UV light mod. 
GI AC relay (resized).jpgNot sure I can help, but the B-Zarr motor and opto blocker assembly could be out of alignment.
Here are before and after resto pictures of mine, maybe you will see something.
Have you verified the mechanical action, I seem to remember some weirdness aligning the opto blocker.
Zarr Before (resized).JPGZarr After (resized).JPGQuoted from crujones4life:Mine does too.
Mine and others solutions to the noise is in this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/psu5-and-the-crack-and-pop-on-wpc-speakers
Bud 
Quoted from JMiliauskas:Anyone have experience touching up their PZ cabinet with the Copic alcohol based ink? The person who originally posted here about that process (years ago - post #143) has been inactive...After a 6 month search to choose a pin, then find one to purchase, I've finally picked and found a Party Zone! It's in great mechanical shape, but needs some cosmetic work. The biggest issue is that the cabinet is very faded. Before I go the decal route, which I don't have the time to do and would probably be super expensive to have someone else, I want to look at other options. If these Copic pens are little more than coloring inbetween the lines, I might give them a shot...I am somewhat handy, but new to doing anything with a pinball machine. I'll even need to look up how to take the glass off, or open the translite - so a total novice. I may be posting in this group as I need help, but will research as much as I can before I do post. Thanks!
I have never seen touch up pens that would work on decal material.
Just go to PPS and get the real decals. (these are thick and are fluorescent)
These went on for me better than any others I have tried.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-PZ-CABSETSS&Category_Code=GS-1764
Good Luck
Quoted from AndrewGB:Hi all. Have had a very strange experience today. I can no longer choose / move any of the highlighted 'BOP' with the left and / or right flippers. When the ball goes through any of the letters, they just stay lit and don't move left or right so it's been hard to complete. This also means that I can no longer choose a track during music request as the flippers don't move the cursor to highlight and select a song. Worst of all, got a new high score but couldn't select letters to enter my name?!?!? Anyone seen this before and know a work around or fix? I've already performed the 'Factory Adjustment' but that did not work and I have not performed the 'Factory Reset' just yet as I didn't want to lose the new high score. Other than that, flippers work as normal. Thanks.
[quoted image]
Had that happen too, just the extra switch attached to the right flipper had a bad connection.
Quoted from Coachmudd74:Hello everyone I just got my first PZ! Love the game and the machine is in great condition no fade the only issue I’m trying to figure out is that my jaw is not moving on the captain...the 2 wires are good the coil is firing and the mechanical jaw wire is barely moving and the jaw is not moving at all...what should I do first? Attempt to remove the head? I herd it’s very tricky to remove without tearing the rubber...any information will be greatly appreciated!!
Please checkout this thread before removing the B. Zarr head.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-repair-your-party-zone-captain-bizarres-head-with-sucess
Bud
Wow, I never thought of trying that without stripping all the hardware off first.
I took everything metal off the head and cabinet first. I used 50 grit to remove the old art. Then I did all the wood repairs . Then worked down to 200 grit. I painted the wood parts black. Inside and out.
I’m having a hard time imagining how you could get that done without a complete tare down before sanding and painting.
It is more work up front, but less work overall. Is that your plan?
I’m getting ready to do the same on my Dr Dude. I like the heat gun idea. I’ll go with that first on this one.
I did the full tare down = everything remaining painted black except bottom on my PZ. Maybe that is not for everyone, but that is my standard procedure for my cabinet restorations.
I just have to clean everything to satisfy my OCD.
Thanks for the heat gun tip.
PZ will be for sale at PinBrew.
Best restoration I have done so far.
The asking price is $4K
Has a few after market adds like Color DMD, Stadium UV lights, new speakers and sub amp, mirror blades, LEDs, Cliffys, and Powder Coated armor.
Still has the classic look with a bit more pop, come to PinBrew and check it out ! 
Quoted from alexanr1:Post a pick here for us to see. Sounds beautiful.
Other photos on my profile page.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Coachmudd74:Mine was the best restoration yet also! Almost sad it’s done! Here is a pic of mine! Not for sale though! This is definitely a keeper I’m not letting this one go!!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Love the idea on the legs ! 
Quoted from Budwin:PZ will be for sale at PinBrew.
Best restoration I have done so far.
The asking price is $4K
Has a few after market adds like Color DMD, Stadium UV lights, new speakers and sub amp, mirror blades, LEDs, Cliffys, and Powder Coated armor.
Still has the classic look with a bit more pop, come to PinBrew and check it out !
Here is one 
I just went through the same thing.
The trick is that the switch must be positioned such that when one ball is in the VUK the 2nd ball rests on it. (big bang set)
But you have to be carful that after the VUK kicks out the 1st ball that the switch is not holding the 2nd from only gravity rolling it into the VUK.
If the switch is down too far down the 2nd ball gets stuck at the switch and stays there. (not enough gravity to get past the switch arm)
I had to pull the PF out away so I could see behind the back panel. (I also replaced both switches while I was back there)
So, just enough switch clearance to trip the switch, but not so tight as to keep the 2nd ball from rolling into the VUK by gravity.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Budwin.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/partyzone-1?tu=Budwin and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Westerville, OH
