Can someone take a clear close up of J115 with the Yellow Wires (left bottom)

Appreciate any help

Thank you in advance

I am rebuilding this connector and just want guidance on the proper wires
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It’s the same for all wpc games before wpc-95 or wpc dcs.

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Awesome !!

At least I can get something properly fixed

I did suck it up and order a new motor driver board from PBL as the switches are working

I will follow up

Thank you again for all your help

I think its the timing. if your optos work by manually triggering then i wonder if the sequence is off. Ill let you know the sequence of mine. the wheel might need slight adjustment.

Facing forward head opto 3 is on.
Move slightly clockwise is head opto 1

Head all way looking right only head opto 3 is on.
There is a bunch of in between configurations but maybe that’s enough to adjust it right.

Thank you for all
Your help

I will
Check this out when the new motor board arrives

Hello,

Does anyone know what J118 does exactly? I see from the manual that it goes eventually makes it to the motor opto board. Grey-yellow and black 12v. Here is why I’m asking. The game keeps rebooting. When I touch that connector. The game reboots. When I leave it off the game will play for a while then reboot. I don’t have any of those connectors so I am not sure what to order.

Thanks,

Robert

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Okay folks

I installed a L3 Rom on My PZ

To upgrade from an older Revision and this is how it acts

Any ideas ??

Thanks
James

Weird, i think this escalates out of a PZ specific issue to a WPC-89 issue. Any legs get bent while putting the new rom in? re-seat all ribbon cables? try to re-seat ASIC? I wonder if the cpu rom was a different size and the jumper needs to be adjusted. I only vaguely remember this much, you would need to look into the pinwiki help files for wpc89 rom sizes and the jumper.

I spoke with a fellow pinhead

This comes back around to the Captain being out of whack

So I am literally standing by my door for UPS

the new bi directional board is on the truck

Hope to have resolution soon

INCOMING !!!!

Update

The New Bi Directional Board is here

The Captain is alive and well !!

Game is booting fine now

No Errors in Head Test

Rebuilding the Connector now

So far very happy

Thank you for all your help getting the little bugs taken care of

Nice. Weird how that board was causing al the issues.

All I can think of is if the head was not properly turning the optics were not triggering causing a hiccup

The P5 was very early code so I honestly don’t know

But we’re moving forward

Okay PZ folks

Finally after tweaks and rebuilding the connectors after help From the group

I play the game

And slight issue with Capt B Zarr Was discovered

He works !! Works fine

BUT when ball goes up the rocket ramp he makes the game lock up - then fail

Now if ball goes to the BOP (up dummy lane)
He goes to the same position 6 but continues to work fine throughout the game

See Video incase my terminology is confusing

Any help or guidance is appreciated

Thanks
James

Take the glass off and put the game in switch test. Press or trip every switch one at a time. Do any single switch hits fire more than one switch on the test or not register at all? My guess is you have a short or failing diode on the switch matrix that just happens to be in a row that intersects with the Captain's head. Check every switch out carefully that trips more than one switch including the diode. Don't forget to look over the ones not working. The switches on the left ramp in the rear are pain to access and possibly the problem child.

Well going through the booklet I was looking over the matrix

And noticed that a SW was circled 41 Back Ball Popper

So I will take a look and see if the combo of the 2 is causing this

I feel it’s not the Captain that is at Fault

Thank you for your help

Anyone else have thoughts feel free to post and I’m willing to try just lmk

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Okay the issue was found

Literally pulled the Field out and sure enough that VUK switch behind the panel was repaired poorly

The diode was backwards and the wires were not even correct

White was in the middle not green was soldered wrong as well

OP cob job

Installed a new switch / Diode and no longer crashes

Very excited

I start shopping it out this week

I've owned my Party Zone for 3-4 years.
This whole time, I've never known what, I think is, the dim football player says right before the announcer says (uh....wrong game pal).
What does he say?

That Looks Better

Thank you to everyone whom
Helped me get the small issues fixed

All Shopped out and Plays Great

Just Kicked My Ass not even a 10mil game LOL

INCOMING

PZ in the lineup !!!

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I'm finally starting work on a Party Zone I got over the winter. I have only worked on EM's up to this point so the SS thing is kind of daunting. The playfield is in good shape as are most of the plastics. I also have a new MPU and DMD boards that need to be installed.

There are several issues and I hope I can get your help in working through them:

* There is no bottom to the cabinet so I have no idea where the transformer or speaker or any of that are supposed to sit
* Wires were just pulled with no labeling, hopefully I can answer most of this with the manual and schematics
* Wires that were not just pulled were yanked/cut
* RUST - there is heavy rusting in areas of the game to the point where many fasteners will just have to be drilled or cut

Probably got myself in over my head but we'll see how it goes.

Right now I'm taking off all the really rusty bits to clean them. After that I want to take off the playfield so I can start rebuilding the cabinet. I have not worked on a SS pinball before. How do I remove the playfield? Is there something I need to pay special attention to?

Thanks!

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the good things are
you have good ramps, the dummy, and the playfield looks nice.
I am not too far from you and could help you on this if needed. I love my party zone.

The bad
If only have worked on EM's this will be alot for you. But pinball collectors don't like easy so you will do fine.
Definitely missing some components on the back of the play field. Most of it should be similar mechs (like flippers etc) to other wpc-89 games. Do you have the board in the capt b-zar head?
Do you have the transformer? the speaker goes on the underside of the cabinet, the transformer sits on a board above the bottom of the cabinet.

there should be 2 wiring bundles going to the playfield. they are all connected to the various board in the backbox* EDIT your backbox is off which means they should be disconnected or were they all cut?!*, you need to take pictures and label (blue painters tape works well) every connection (like J112 etc), once the 2 wire bundles are free from the backbox, you can simply lift out the playfield. it sits on two small round knobs on either side of the cabinet. you need to make a rotisserie or other method to hold the playfield while you work.

can we see some more pictures of the underside of the playfield? how many wires/ things are missing?

I do have those components and also the transformer (see 2nd photo below). The speaker is nowhere to be found. I had already started taking all the rusty parts off the playfield to start the process of cleaning them. From what I have seen from other PZ games, I'm pretty sure all the PF parts are there, they are just rusty and a few are damaged. The kickout hole under the Captain head will need some new components.

The backbox is in good shape, all the boards are present. DMD glass is cracked, but I have a new one that came with the game. MPU looks OK, but the seller also included a new MPU. Lots of cables inside the backbox, most have both ends disconnected with nothing labeled, there are two where the connector is gone but that can be replaced. Only one of the speakers is in the backbox.

The third photo, gray power supply, has two wires (black and white) that were just yanked off something - no idea where those go.

The coin door (last two photos) took a beating. Most of the mechs are bent or broken. Even the frame on the door is not square since the coin door does not really close. The little PCB with test buttons is there but also got ripped off the door, not sure where that goes.

Apron appeared to be in good shape, but after removing it, most of the bottom is rusty where the paint is starting to separate from the metal. Shooting rod was missing.

I checked the Captain B-zar head, the board with the optos is below it. The wires that control the jaw are cut though.

The wires from the playfield are like a plate of spaghetti right now, I plan to unravel those tonight before pulling the playfield off.

That manual has so much information. It has been a huge help in all of this.

I'm taking it slow with this one, one thing at a time. I have a feeling it's going to take a while to turn this game around but I'm looking forward to it.

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That's a project. You're going to need some Pinside help for sure. Here are a few shots of the bottom of my cabinet for reference.

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If taking wires off the bottom wpc games had 3 wire “bundles”. They were solenoids/ flashers, lamps, and then switches. See if you can maintain each bundle while removing. It will help tremendously later on. I believe solenoids/ flashers is first (top most layer so far eat from back of playfield) followed by lamps, then switches.

Maddog and Langless, thanks for all the help.

Maddog —> is there nothing bracing the cabinet bottom under the transformer? That’s a heavy item. These photos are great, now I know how everything is laid out

There isn't a mounting plate of any kind. There are t-nuts installed on the underside so it isn't going anywhere.

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Sorry I was confusing my era of wpc cabinets.

I can make a new bottom panel for you if you want. With cutouts and everything based off my party zone cabinet. Or I can give you dimensions if you are a fellow woodworker.

Oh my yes please if you require help

We will be happy to assist where needed

The PZ group helped me with mine and would love to help another PZ sore into the OZONE

Need pictures or etc just ask as I seen many has already assisted

Good group here

Thanks for the offer, that would be awesome. I'm not much of a woodworker - I can do some stuff but I don't have many finishing skills. Please let me know what measurements, if any, you need from my game.

I took a couple photos of the cabinet bottom, the new bottom would fit into that channel that is already in the bottom of the cabinet, right? Some of the plywood there is delaminating so I will glue and clamp it tonight so it's more sound. The beam that braces the cabinet (second photo) is also loose, I will glue this too.

The third photo is one of the side rails - not sure how it got mangled like that, but what is the best way to remove it? In the EM's I'm used to working on, the side rail is held in place by small nails - no nails on this one. Is it just a pressure fitting?

Thanks!

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Yes so it either failed or someone cut the bottom of the groove out to remove the bottom panel. The new panel i build for you will go there and we will have to add strips around the outside.

The side rails are held on with fairly strong double stick tape. There is a high possibility if you try to remove it you will pull the side art off the cabinet. Not a big deal if you are also redoing the cabinet art.

the cabinet art is in good shape, a little faded but not bad. I’ll see what can be done to bend it close to original shape

I have successfully removed side rails on a few games, without damaging the side art. It's more time consuming & challenging tho.

1) I purchased a cement trowel with a pointed tip. I took my file and sharpened the sides, to the tip.
2) I purchased 2 very thin / ridged plastic panels (approx 12" x 12") from Tap plastics
3) I started from the front (under lockbar) and gently wedged one plastic panel in as far as I could and taped it in place, so it would not move.
4) I tapped the sharp trowel into/under rail, and gently rocked it back and forth cutting the double-sided adhesive tape holding glass rail against decal. The plastic panel is there to protect the cabinet artwork.
5) When I got past 12" length, in inserted the 2nd 12"x12" panel to continue, down the path, until rail was removed
6) I took lacquer thinner to clean off double-sided tape/residue. CAUTION: Some art will be damaged by lacquer thinner, test first in a very small unnoticeable area. Other cleaner options: Goof Off or Goo-Gone or some other glue remover (always test them first in small area)

Have a beer close by and your tunes cranked up!

The disassembly and cleanup has been slow but it's progressing. I started at the apron and am taking what is needed off (tons of photos and notes), cleaning it, and re-assembling it so I can re-install it later. So far I have done all the mechs under the apron and outhole, the flippers, and the outhole kicker just below the Capt B.Zarr head.

The photos below are of the outhole kicker. It was completely seized due to rust, now it's clean and ready to go.

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Can you post a photo of the ball gate wire under the apron?

These are the ones I have.

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Perfect! Thank you!

This has been discussed numerous times already but I just added a 5/16 inch post rubber to top of wire habitrail the ball exits from after a left ramp shot and it slows the ball waaay down. I'd be shocked if it ever comes off again!

For us who have disassembled Party Zones, can you post a photo?

I do something similar but I use the smallest silicon mini post rings. Same end result. Slows the ball down enough to keep it on the ramp.

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Before I get myself into trouble in my playfield teardown, is there a correct way to remove the entire Capt B.Zarre head assembly off the playfield? I got the wires to the opto board and wire harness disconnected. I see there are four screws holding the metal bracket onto the playfield, but how do I get the Captain's head through the hole?

Alberto

Hello fellow Pinsiders, I recently picked up a PZ and can not figure why my BMerry targets do not respond upon contact, the light flash through out game play but do not stay lit, should they? Sorry, super new to pin collecting, actually not even a year in, but so addicting! I don't have a manual yet so still trying to learn menu navigation too. Any help much appreciated, thanks!

There are 4 -1/4 inch size screws holding the mech in place

Remove the connectors to the assembly

Then 2 screws on each side on Capt Head
Be sure not to tear as you pull up

Then I usually loosen the lowest pop bumper to allow wiggle room

Works for me

Thanks! I’ll work on the pop bumpers to get better access to the head. No need to worry about the connectors since those wires were cut.

If possible, could someone post a photo of their shooter rod assembly? Other than the mount on the outside, everything else is missing on mine. Trying to see what parts I need to order.

Thanks,

Alberto

Hope they Helps

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It's perfect, thank you!

All three pop bumpers are off as is the Captain’s head. All metal parts are in Evaporust, all plastic parts have been cleaned with Krud Kutter.

Captain is in rough shape, but I will repaint him after cleaning.

Alberto

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