Quoted from rkahr:Awesome advise - Thanks gmkalos ! I bought a switch with a longer trigger arm up at Pintastic but I haven't been able to locate it in my luggage yet... hope it really made the trip home.
Just in case anyone was waiting in suspense I figured I should report out. It took about 4 days but I found the stupid switch I bought at Pintastic. I followed gmkalos advise to attack from the back with the head down. As crujones4life says, it is still a PITA, tight space to work. I found I did better standing on a stool behind the game so that just my wrists were entering the hole.
I went through a LOT of adjusting to get the switch where it would trigger - and stay triggered - when the second ball came up the ramp, but also would allow the ball to slide past the switch when the first ball was kicked out. In my machine the kickout of the first ball would push the second ball back up the rear ramp just slightly so that it would have nearly zero momentum. This made it easy for the ball to get trapped by the arm of the switch. Of course, every time you think you have it you have to flip the head back up and try it. I got tired of that quickly.
So another tip that really helped speed things along was alligator clipping my multimeter across the switch and putting it in signal continuity mode. This let me do a lot of testing of each adjustment without flipping the head back up. Tonight, after nearly three weeks of regularly futzing with it whenever I had a moment, I finally got it working reliably.
I've been working through all of my games to get them into the best playing shape I can because I'm expecting to host house league this fall. Glad to say all the deferred maintenance on my PZ is now corrected.
-Rob
-visit http://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or for my replacement LED display boards for model H & model S Skee Ball