I’ve had this game for over 10 years now, but last week in the middle of a game, my PZ reset for the 1st time ever. Note that this is a true HUO game, with virtually no wear or use on it, other than the driver brd replaced by the previous owner (she sold it to me because the PZ did not work again- batteries turned out to be dead).
When I turned it back on, I got the “fuse F114/F115 failed” message after the Captain turned his head from right to left; head will not turn back to the right. Checked all fuses- OK. Thinking it might be the opto brd on the head, I removed the power to it and the power to the head itself- same thing.

LED's 1, 2 and 3 will not light on the driver brd. TP1 gives 14.96. TP2 is OK. TP3 should be 12; gives less than 1. TP6 gives 16.3; TP7 is OK; TP8 should be 50 (says so on brd), but gives 80.

AC voltage at J101 pins 4 & 7 is OK- gives 14. J101 pins 5 & 6 gives 14. J101 pin 6 to fuse 114 gives 14.

Any ideas? Driver board NG again? On the CPU, the LED’s do the correct test sequence (top & bottom turn on, top goes off, center blinks rapidly]. I put a remote battery on the machine running to the coin box when I first got it.

Thanks. Well, it doesn't appear to be swollen or leaking, but I have not removed the board to check underneath. No other caps seem deformed or leaking as well. Any other thoughts?

Yes, I get just under 16 from F115 to D2. I just noticed however what may be cap leakage on C9, just above TP6, near R260. I can't seem to find in my notes I made last week what cap 9 function is.

Ok, I labeled the cables last nite and will pull the brd out to check- sounds like it has to be worked on anyway...

I am no expert. but this does not look like quality work- surprised it functioned as long as it did. Guess it will be sent out to someone who works better than this.

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Ok, but what about the 3rd picture down, it goes to Q2, and does not appear to be even soldered down, just pushed thru the 3 holes? Wish I took better pictures, I'll try again.

Under Q1, the circuit brd is discolored from heat, and I am not sure if this is cap leakeage or brd damage by R260.

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No, the heat sink of Q1, it is next to the cap I just took a pic of.

Oh, sorry, I am getting ahead of myself, yes the Q2 heatsink does not have a soldering, but I guess that's ok if it is just a heatsink, duh.

Yes, I think you are right, C2 does appear to have leaked. THANK YOU so much!!!

Update: Well, I sent the driver board out to Chris H. for repairs; he replaced C2, C4, C5, and the .156 headers for power and General Illumination. Board came back today, and everything works fine now. Thanks Chris !! (And everyone else who helped).