I'm looking for someone trustworthy and I hopefully will do that.
(Topic ID: 180235)
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Bally, 1991
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Quoted from gmkalos:I just assumed that was you seemed like your style, well thanks for supporting this ass and your kicked out of my Facebook group dude.
My style? U dont know me for one thing so not sure what the heck your talking about. You need to take a chill pill man and think about things before you type. Lifes to short and its only pinball man....
Yea ok you've been attacking people I know and acting like some sort of all knowing pingod, have you ever even worked on a driver board man. Before you chime in on your opinion think about things before you type.
And I take a lot of pride in my versatility, work and diagnosis to have all those insulted by some douche is frustrating to say the least!
Quoted from gmkalos:Yea ok you've been attacking people I know and acting like some sort of all knowing pingod, have you ever even worked on a driver board man. Before you chime in on your opinion think about things before you type.
Im really not sure what your talking about attacking people and pingod status lmao , but good luck with your driver board and yes i own all wpc pins and have fixed quite a few for myself and other people .
Yea I'm sure Darin have a good one dude, did you buy them from coinopwherehouse where there's never any decent pins for sale man (your words) lol.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:I agree that is the current issue at hand. There are some traces/feedthroughs damaged.
I been there and done that too!! It is not easy taking the bridge rectifiers out, but I learned to cut them off at the bottom side of the part and then heat and remove each pin individually. The big 15000 uf caps are a completely different story finding a safe way to remove them.
Look I get it too man and if you read my earlier posts about cutting the legs on each Br and removing the pins one at a time minding what I assumed were just soldier pads (vux) and leaving just enough soldier to tin in the new Br. Here's a pic of a CRT monitor I completely recapped sitting on the shelf and sold on ebay from my cabaret Ms Pac, while building a Mame cabaret. I can soldier ok, everything was installed correctly, the bridge rectifier I received in this lousy kit is defective, has 2 internal diode shorts and fried my board!
Here's a pic I posted earlier of of me testing step 3 on the old BR and I WISH I didn't cut the legs so short so I could have re used it now, but you can see how I cut them short to remove the whole piece and de-soldier them one at a time. I treated them as soldier pads and was careful a always, yes I used silver solder does that really make that much of a difference. And it doesn't change the fact that this BR supplied in this kit has 2 internal diode shorts and took out my board and wallet.
Quoted from zaza:It was difficult to follow the measurements, especially when somewhere between post#45 and #119 the leads were swapped on his multimeter.
As zaza mentioned, at some point it looks like you had swapped the leads at the meter. Can you swap the 2 leads at the meter now and see what the measurement is? It seems you should have had a .55v or so reading.
1. = overload as in higher resistance than 2k, not a short
Here this was his EXACT advice over 9 min on the phone and 3 ebay messages. I told him the head was going nuts he said oh yea that's just your optics, I asked him if he would work on it and check it out, he said I don't have the time to work on the boards, then said I think you took out the 5v you should do some voltage tests. Ok lets get this straight now the crappy kit was made to improve the optics, strenghten the 5v and improve the voltage haha. So I did and messaged him back on ebay told him my findings doing a resistance check threw the BRs and finding the two shorts. Oh you need to do a diode test, and check the caps...The brand new caps YOU provided me need to be checked, I have to go buy an expensive FLUKE to do the same test I'm doing under a 9v load yea ok. Common sense would see it would test even worse under load man. Obviously back peddling then attacks my soldier skills, leads anything you can weazel out of paying me back for this defective part.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:As zaza pointed out, at some point it looks like you had swapped the leads at the meter. Can you swap the 2 leads at the meter now and see what the measurement is? It seems you should have had a .55v or so reading.
1. = overload as in higher resistance than 2k, not a short
I was doing continuity tests and then ac high voltage tests earlier remember I was repairing the GI strings first my board was perfect otherwise and swapped the leads, pay no attention to that first I soldered them myself and there extra long for convince. I've tested this DEFECTIVE BR supplied in this kit that took out my board at least 3 times.
2k Ohms scale reading for continuity/Diode reading (not under load) of the 3 bridge rectifiers in order of picture showing the new Br supplied in this kit BR2 testing faulty in steps 3 & 4! Should I have to really go out and buy an expensive cap reader and have to measure the NEW caps too.
BR2
1 - 1.
2 - 1.
3 - 1.361
4 - 1.292
BR1
1 - 1.
2 - 1.
3 - 1.
4 - 1.
BR3
1 - 1.
2 - 1.
3 - 1.
4 - 1.
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Quoted from gmkalos:I was doing continuity tests and then ac high voltage tests earlier remember I was repairing the GI strings first my board was perfect otherwise and swapped the leads, pay no attention to that first I soldered them myself and there extra long for convince.
No problem. Not questioning what you did before.
I am only asking if you can swap the 2 leads at the meter now and see what the measurements now are?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:No problem. Not questioning what you did before.
I am only asking if you can swap the 2 leads at the meter now and see what the measurements now are?
Before I do a continuity test I always check my leads and make sure there 0.00 that's just common sense man (check your leads), I'm not going to swap the leads to do the same test again that makes no sense.
The readings are the exact same for my brand new defective BR2 supplied in this kit, the 2 diodes in step 3 & 4 are not blocking the current 100% and it CLEARLY measures in a 2K ohms reading.
Quoted from gmkalos:Before I do a continuity test I always check my leads and make sure there 0.00 that's just common sense man (check your leads), I'm not going to swap the leads to do the same test again that makes no sense.
Makes lots of sense actually because on most meters the 2k setting is a diode test, not just a continuity test. Reversing the leads at the meter, you may actually should be getting a different result than what you posted. I'm interesting in knowing the result.
Basically, what zaza and I are trying to see if you have the black lead connected to the COM on the meter. We cannot tell by your pictures if it connected that way since the ends the leads at the meter do not have a red or black indicator to know if you leads are connected reverse for this diode test.
If I reverse them there all reading 0.00, its the blocking direction I am testing at 2K, you can see the little diode symbol on my cheep meter It's the same test essentially.
Gawd you guys really think I'm just a big dumb goof thanks a lot really I needed that...this has gotten WAY to serious lol 
I made my leads myself there extra long and I just liked the cables ok there easier to use and a bit more robust. And actually soldiered in at the elbows and the probe ends.
People are asking more questions trying to help out because your pictures are not telling us the full story.
I have the old one you can see it there in the pic I already tested it in step 4, scroll up, you can see it's OL 1. I have some on the way from Mouser should be here later this week. My plan is to replace both of them now cause there bolted to the heat-sink and pray!
Quoted from gmkalos:I have the old one you can see it there in the pic I already tested it in step 4, scroll up, you can see it's OL 1. I have some on the way from Mouser should be here later this week. My plan is to replace both of them now cause there bolted to the heat-sink and pray!
Do the diode test on the new ones before installing them. Hopefully you don't have the same results as what you just tested.
If you have a regular 1N4004 diode, test it both ways. Red lead on the non-banded side should give you 0.55v or so. If not, maybe you have an issue with your meter.
Well looking at my meter I did reverse them on the meter, I was doing lots of continuity testes It makes no difference down the circuit paths on the board for these BRs. The one with the writing on the heatshrink is ground lol. But I just reversed them my hands I'm sure. Either way its a very simple resistance test at 2k ohms scale. One direction across the diode should be closed and read 0.00 ohms and the other way should be open and read 1. or OL and it shows its not blocking in the open direction 100% instead reading 1.3621 and 1.292 i this simple diode test and makes no diff if the leads were reversed they would read the same anyways man. The other two bridge rectifiers supplied in this untested crappy kit are actually working, too bad I got to cut one out the remove BR2.
BR2
1 - 1.
2 - 1.
3 - 1.361
4 - 1.292
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Do the diode test on the new ones before installing them. Hopefully you don't have the same results as what you just tested.
If you have a regular 1N4004 diode, test it both ways. Red lead on the non-banded side should give you 0.55v or so. If not, maybe you have an issue with your meter.
I will never install another BR and not test it again after this experience believe me.
And I'm going to shotgun it anyways and replace all 3 and the Brs back to their original values and hope I wont have to do the new crappy caps either. BRs back the engineers specs of 35v instead of 50v supplied in this kit.
If you have a regular 1N4004 diode not in a board, with the red lead on the non-banded side, you should measure 0.55volts or so. If not, maybe you have an issue with your meter.
Right now I'm in the middle of a pf swap man I think I may be a bit more than novice with a crappy multimeter, and some homebrewed leads lol. I've done lots of good work on pins and will continue to do so. What gets me is the consistent bashing of my skills and the installation of these cheep parts in this overpriced kit and the LACK of conduct considering I paid you in full and left positive feedback. All I wanted was some help from Docent electronics not get the run around and then brush off after taking my money and costing me A LOT OF TIME AND MONEY! I've proven your part supplied it defective and has an internal diode short in two diodes of the BR. You can cry about anything you want but that and that's what totaled my board. Thanks for taking the time to spend my money and not test your crappy parts.
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My toys!
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I just wondered how he tested these,
Were the rectifiers installed on the board and power applied?
DMM in the diode setting?
That is the only way I can figure how he got these readings.
The feed threws are probably also damaged under the cap.
I am really surprised that no one has noticed.
On a diode if 0 is a short and 1. is an open,
HOW can you get 1.361 and 1.292?
So these diodes are more then open?
The only way to get this is with either a bad mater or
Voltage, either applied (AC) or residual (15Kuf Cap.) going to the meter.
Either way, a short would have shown a 0 either way the leads were applied.
THERE IS NO SHORT. Period.
Tests
BR2
1 - 1.
2 - 1.
3 - 1.361
4 - 1.292
Quoted from Docent_Elect:I am really surprised that no one has noticed.
On a diode if 0 is a short and 1. is an open,
HOW can you get 1.361 and 1.292?
So these diodes are more then open?
The only way to get this is with either a bad mater or
Voltage, either applied (AC) or residual (15Kuf Cap.) going to the meter.
Either way, a short would have shown a 0 either way the leads were applied.
THERE IS NO SHORT. Period.
Tests
BR2
1 - 1.
2 - 1.
3 - 1.361
4 - 1.292
zaza first noticed an issue wi th the leads being swapped.
Now even with his latest results I am questioning the DMM or yhe way it 8s being used.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:If you have a regular 1N4004 diode not in a board, with the red lead on the non-banded side, you should measure 0.55volts or so. If not, maybe you have an issue with your meter.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:zaza first noticed an issue wi th the leads being swapped.
Now even with his latest results I am questioning the DMM or yhe way it 8s being used.
Stop licking Zaza balls it makes no diff that the leads are swapped its a resistance test dude! Or should I replace my brand new J115 connector because the plastic header guide is dirty...which you could NOT get off of earlier in this thread...hope your not sick anymore seeing the sweet job I did re-pinning J115!
Quoted from Docent_Elect:I am really surprised that no one has noticed.
On a diode if 0 is a short and 1. is an open,
HOW can you get 1.361 and 1.292?
So these diodes are more then open?
The only way to get this is with either a bad mater or
Voltage, either applied (AC) or residual (15Kuf Cap.) going to the meter.
Either way, a short would have shown a 0 either way the leads were applied.
THERE IS NO SHORT. Period.
Tests
BR2
1 - 1.
2 - 1.
3 - 1.361
4 - 1.292
That's what I am saying there is an internal diode short in YOUR BR giving me this weird reding on the multimeter!
Case and point it does not compare to the other ones tested in the circuit or the old ones tested. And it gives you that same exact ohms reading every time I tested it.
On the same DEFECTIVE BR you supplied in this crappy kit, when checking the diode in steps 1 & 2, on step 2 the meter slowly climbs from 1.111-1.999 then to 1. so something is obviously wrong with that BR! Yes I said the same thing if 1. is the open measurement what the hell is 1.1 let alone 1.9 but I saw it on my own meter in a 2k ohms drop test across these diodes in the BR? I'm no engineer I think we all know that but when I tested all the other BRs the same way and they all snapped to 1. (OL) with no hesitation then tested this one BR2 with these weird readings It clearly stands out from the other ones and I'm sure has 2 internal diode shorts.
On the same DEFECTIVE BR you supplied in this crappy kit, when checking the diode in steps 1 & 2, on step 2 the meter slowly climbs from 1.111-1.999 then to 1. so something is obviously wrong with that BR!
@NO, Something is wrong with the tech. doing the test
@The climbing is due to having a capacitor on the same FWBR leads
@The Diode test is a Voltage Drop Test NOT an ohms test
@Any good tech. would have known this
Yes I said the same thing if 1. is the open measurement what the hell is 1.1 let alone 1.9 but I saw it on my own meter in a 2k ohms drop test across these diodes in the BR?
@ From the FLUKE web site
>How to test diodes
>Digital multimeters can test diodes using one of two methods:
>Diode Test mode: almost always the best approach.
>Resistance mode: typically used only if a multimeter is not equipped with a Diode Test mode.
>Note: In some cases it may be necessary to remove one end of the diode from the circuit in order to test the diode.
>Things to know about the Resistance mode when testing diodes:
>Does not always indicate whether a diode is good or bad.
>Should not be taken when a diode is connected in a circuit since it can produce a false reading.
>CAN be used to verify a diode is bad in a specific application after a Diode Test indicates a diode is bad.
>A diode is best tested by measuring the voltage drop across the diode when it is forward-biased. A forward-biased diode >acts as a closed switch, permitting current to flow.
>
>A multimeter’s Diode Test mode produces a small voltage between test leads. The multimeter then displays the voltage >drop when the test leads are connected across a diode when forward-biased.
>http://en-us.fluke.com/training/training-library/test-tools/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-diodes-using-a-digital-multimeter.html
@If you want to argue with Fluke Meters, I included the web address
I'm no engineer I think we all know that
@I am glad you have finally come to that truth.
@There is no shame in asking for help.
@But to act like you have toward the people trying to help you
@There is no excuse.
but when I tested all the other BRs the same way and they all snapped to 1. (OL) with no hesitation then tested this one BR2 with these weird readings
@What part of 1. is an open NOT A SHORT do you not understand? jeesh!
It clearly stands out from the other ones and I'm sure has 2 internal diode shorts.
@No, It clearly shows that you have LITTLE IDEA of what you are doing!
@Send your board in to a Qualified Tech. it is above your ability
@and quit dogging the people that are trying to help you!
Nice try Docent I thought you were going to let me esclate this ebay case! CASE REVERSED MONEY BACK IN MY ACCOUNT! And you lost the positive feedback I left you dude!
Here's what else you get with your DEFECTIVE part when ordering from Docent Electronics...
I called you and you offered no actual help in diagnosing this problem with your wacky part, instead telling me I may have ruined my board and took out the 5 v and to do some voltage tests...
I messaged you 3 times game you my readings , ASKED YOU TO JOIN THIS TOPIC, again you blew me off saying it was an instalation error and good luck...
Filed a return request with you again asking for your help...then you finally chime in here on the thread further bashing me and my skills...
You jump down my throat, I've clearlly doing an 2k diode test on your BR show it's inconsistency to work properlly!
Then sneakily after telling me over and over again threw 30+ redundant ebay messages "YOU WONT ACCEPT A RETURN AND WILL REFEFUSE SHIPPING" and "GO AHEAD ESCALATE THIS CASE" couldn't wait to call and have them find it in your favor.
This is dealing with you when things hit the fan and it's RIDICULOUS!
Case reversed and FULL REFUND MADE, you can cry all you want I'm sorry you don't even know how to drop across a fuc*** diode and check continuity, I'm stil left holding a fried board with nice soldier connections and a fuc**** working fan! MOST LIKELY HAVE TO PURCHASE A ROTTENDAWG BOARD NOW $300...but at least now I can put that money towards that and not in your greasy palms anymore!
I've thanked everyone that helped me with this Gi issue PinballManiac40, Lukex and especially German-Pinball in helping me understand the triac switching circuit and his schematics! I even thanked you when we talked over the phone and did your voltage tests, but I know when I'm being blown off and by your 3rd message it was apparent you wouldn't help me but instead just reversing the blame. Then lashed out at me here first saying "I can't believe you did this to me" playing the victim (which is bullshit) ok! I'm generally cordial to most people until provoked believe me.
Actually it was me who had the case resolved.
I don't want to spend any more time on this.
I think everybody who has read this knows what a fool you are.
Little to no Tech. Ability.
Money was paid out of ebas account not mine, It didn't cost me a penny.
I have excellent feedback (and lots of them) I am not worried about yours.
One day you will come to the realization it was you not me who lost.
:{) No further correspondence
Oh, One last thing from ebay to me..............
eBay Customer Support has made a final decision.
Final decision :
This case was found in your favor (us not you)
>>>>>I wasn't going to do this but..........................
>>>>>Just to show the group what a liar you are, Dispute this from ebay
>I OPENED THE CASE NOT YO AS YOU CLAIM
Hi docent_electronics,
You opened a case with us for Williams / Bally Pinball, WPC Driver Kit, With MPU Reset Fix, and Much More.
The case ID is 5129544560.
We'll take it from here and review the case, including any messages that you and the buyer sent through eBay.
We'll get back to you within 48 hours.
You can view the details of this case in the Resolution Center.
Williams / Bally Pinball, WPC Driver Kit, With MPU Reset Fix, and Much More
>AND YOU DID NOT RECEIVE ANY MONEY BACK, I WON THE CASE, YOU DIDN'T FOOL THEM
This case is now closed
Hi ERIC,
We reviewed this case and have closed it without any refund to the buyer.
The case will not affect your seller performance. Any feedback left for this transaction will be removed.
THE END........................
Your such a fuc**** liar man I OPENED UP THE RETURN REQUEST and right afterwards you finally came on here and said "how could you do this to me" LOOK AT YOUR OWN POST IN THIS THREAD! What you did was weazlly called 1st thing today and esclated it and had them decide in your favor...at first until I got the email and reversed their decision IN MY FAVOR! So here's another gleaming trait of dealing with Docent Electronics a pale face liar caught RED handed in this thread!
Quoted from gmkalos:...... fry my board now costing me $300 to replace!
gmkalos : I think, your board is absolutly repairable with a few new parts and there is no need, to buy a new board.
If you would live in germany, I would invite your for a nice pinball evening and we would play pinball and by the way we would repair your board.
As you are in the US, ask borygard (Rob Anthony) or Chris Hibler, if they are willing to repair your board. The costs will certainly only be a fraction of the costs as for a new board.
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