Wheww I was really worried there thank gawd, cause I think transformers may be the toughest thing to replace on a pinball you never see them for sale. Ok I will check connector J101 and post the results. 
(Topic ID: 180235)
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Bally, 1991
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Again:
You certainly destroyed one or more vias (through holes) of BR 1 and/or BR 2.
Look at this photo:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/0/0f/WPC_Brdg_1and2_Removed3.JPG
You soldered your BRs from the bottom side of the board and all seems OK, BUT on the Top side of the board, you can see traces too, and 2 of them are very delicate, if the vias are destroyed, there is not connection and I am sure, you destroyed the vias.
I went back and re-soldiered the top parts of the holes too, and worked it down the traces a bit check it see. On top of that I re soldered the backs and draged down the traces a bit. I also checked for resistance from every pin of each component down traces of the lines and everyting is soldered to the circuit? Does that mean the BR are fryed?
Dayton, OH
I can't believe you did this to me.
I spent time on the phone with you trying to help you.
And what did you do? Filed a full refund request with ebay for defective parts.
You obviously do not have the required skills to do repairs like this.
And then you blame me?
30v 50v ratings on FWBR? not Amps
Using ohms to test diodes and capacitors?? Diode scale and Cap. meter.
Using SILVER SOLDER not lead/tin (To hot)
Pulling out feed throughs
I'm sorry you messed up your board if you did but it was NOT the kits fault.
We provide many parts and kits for do-it-yourselfers
and I spend many hours helping my customers with problems.
But you have some nerve asking for a refund on the kit
because you do not have the skills to do the testing and repair needed.
Mr. Eric Spain - Owner Docent Electronics
Yea ok I thought you might have ohms readings for your caps or someone else could compare them to. And I DID do all the tests shown in DIODE test and they are showing BR2 has an internal short so what would you call that a defective part. What do you think your the gods gift to soldering My solder connections are fine! My board was working just fine before I decided to buy your overpriced shitty kit for the IDC connectors I thought I was going to get and these cheep obviously untested bridge rectifiers...so thanks for the crappy fan I should have ripped off my old computer and saved my self this headache.
And no vux were pulled...a REAL BIG THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP IN THE AUCTION ON NOT USING SILVER SOLDER!
You must test the BR the correct way, using your diod test function of your DMM.
Think, that there are 4 diodes in the BR and we must test each single diode.
First do it for every diode as follows and post the results:
Second swap red and black lead of your DMM and test each single diode and post the results:
I do not think, that your BRs are faulty.
Quoted from Docent_Elect:I can't believe you did this to me.
I spent time on the phone with you trying to help you.
And what did you do? Filed a full refund request with ebay for defective parts.
You obviously do not have the required skills to do repairs like this.
And then you blame me?
30v 50v ratings on FWBR? not Amps
Using ohms to test diodes and capacitors?? Diode scale and Cap. meter.
Using SILVER SOLDER not lead/tin (To hot)
Pulling out feed throughs
I'm sorry you messed up your board if you did but it was NOT the kits fault.
We provide many parts and kits for do-it-yourselfers
and I spend many hours helping my customers with problems.
But you have some nerve asking for a refund on the kit
because you do not have the skills to do the testing and repair needed.
Mr. Eric Spain - Owner Docent Electronics
Again I already left you positive feedback, explained the whole situation over the phone, messaging on ebay and sent you a link to this thread...your advice "good luck". I'm a seller too on ebay (thetoyaisle)
...and have been selling vintage toys and pinball parts for the last 10 years, I stand by everything I sell. I guess I'm the dummy for not testing all your caps and BRs before I installed them. And to insult a guys solder skills...that's just low dude.
Hello all you pinheads,
This is really getting old,
thetoyaisle aka gmkalos
Apparently has been hacking on this board for a while
I like the part where he said it was my fault for not telling him NOT to use silver solder.
I spent 20 minutes on the phone trying to help him and you can see his attitude.
gmkalos, you can file with ebay but I have already shown the emails and this post.
You do not know enough experience with these systems to be doing these kind of repairs.
Especially without a schematic!
If this is your attitude with people trying to help you, good luck.
Anybody can see by our kit sales on this item and feedback
YOU are the only one to have issues with it.
It is NOT the Kit but the Person installing it with the issues.
Post all you want about us, anyone reading this post can make their own option about this.
Best to you all
Mr. Eric Spain - Owner Docent Electronics
Yea ok there's no doubt to me that you are spending a lot of time talking to the people on the phone who you have sold this cheep kit to. I installed this kit fine and it completely messed up my totally working board so I think that says it all. You can insult me all you want or my skills I hope that makes you feel better about yourself. I worked as a professional mechanic at a Lincoln Dealership for 7 years and had cases open with engineers at Ford, as many wire harnesses as I've done, voltage drop tests, and pins Ive replaced I think I can soldier. You say this is for the novice...well what would you call me I've never heard that silver soldier was bad for boards I assumed it was better, I guess I'm a novice huh? You couldn't wait to blow me off the phone we talked for 9 min, and gave me very little help over messages saying "I think you blew the 5v out" from what installing your kit? Ok what should I do ..."do some voltage tests and good luck to you" total bs man just brushing me off so you can make your whopping $40 profit on a $10 kit dude just checked mouser on all these parts. Then get on my for not having a cap meter or doing extensive diode tests on your shitty components in your kit! Good luck to you dude I hope you make a million...
Any you can see on my pics the vux are fine, I was careful soldiering out the components and cut the legs as I always do and remove them one at a time leaving just enough original soldier left on the pads to tin in the new caps and pool in a minuscule drop on soldier to fill the pad and keep it light. While at first I did not soldier to the tops of the vux I went back after tinned them up again from the top. Right off the bat this kit went haywire and that's what we talked about over the phone, your optics fix made my optics go nuts and got the head completely stuck sideways. You more powerful rectifiers most likely fried my system or it was your caps, or your 5v fix which took out my 5v. Your obviously no engineer and this kit is not stable for anyone installing it on their own driverboard certainly not a novice like me I guess. You gave no warning about not using silver soldier particularly on a Williams board Its generally known that silver soldier is better, no warning about how delicate the BRs are to install and not ruin the vux pads. There's no soldier balls or ruined pads look at my pictures, ok a little excessive heat heat and there but it's soldiered to the pad and making a good connection. I've verified that by checking resistance from each one of the legs down the corresponding traces of the board, there all in continuity to there respective soldier pads.
004 - Copy (resized).JPG
508bbc3b7e1c4e058b0047a6602afde80ec5ccca (resized).jpg
So I guess it was something else I must have magically done other than install your crappy kit...correctly!
And I sent you this link to this thread hopeing you would chime in and actually help repair the damage before being brushed off by you and opening a case against you for not helping me at all and reversing the blame here insulting my skills and calling me a novice. I should repost ALL the crazy ebay messages you've been leaving (at least 20) further insulting me and you want to talk about nonsensical shit buddy!
Quoted from lukex:You possibly don't want to hear this, but it may be time to send the board out for repair.
Chasing your tail like this must be frustrating.
The alternative is to go back to basics and start the troubleshooting from scratch using the information provided here so far in a systematic manner - ruling out one part of the circuit at a time.
My suggestion from about 3 weeks ago?
I fixed the GI strings man all I needed was a schematic to understand the switching circuit to the transistors.
But now may be the time to send it out, and I am talking with a professional who hopefully will take on the repair. Case and point I unnecessarily installed this kit, should have just left it at changing the 3 connectors.
And there is nothing wrong with doing a 2K "diode" ohms reading threw these BRs (see the little diode symbol on the meter), they are nothing more then 4 blocking diodes in series and should have no continuity when checked (1.) not (0.00), It may not be as sensitive as a putting them in a load test on an more expensive multimeter but the outcome is the same there should be no measurable continuity! You can CLEARLY see in measuring steps 3 and 4 of checking the individual diodes there is some current getting threw and these two diodes on BR2 are not blocking 100% on your new untested crappy bridge rectifier! I realize that you cant test every part you sell but to jump down someones throat calling them a hack and not giving any real advice just shows your horrible nature dude. Your cheep untested part is defective and thanks to your crappy kit my board is most likelly toast now...so again thanks for the shitty $58 fan!
The diode setting readings of the 3 bridge rectifiers (in order of picture)
BR2
1 - 1.
2 - 1.
3 - 1.361
4 - 1.292
BR1
1 - 1.
2 - 1.
3 - 1.
4 - 1.
BR3
1 - 1.
2 - 1.
3 - 1.
4 - 1.
651px-TestingABridgeRectifierFourSteps (resized).jpg
001 (resized).JPG
Face it pinheads, some people you just can't help.
My background is 35 years electronics repair and design with a PMEL degree from the AIR FORCE.
We have several MAJOR relaters for our products, kits and cables.
And I was willing to help him until the day after I talked to him on the phone,
he filed for a refund with ebay.
AND FOR THE RECORD...
We have never had a negative feedback on this kit.
Apparently he has some other problems that interferes with his cognitive reasoning.
I think this is because I told him I do not have time to look at his board
to find out where he messed it up.
You should have taken lukex and sent this to someone who has the proper skills.
Wie geht es dir Deutsch-Flipper. Meine Familie kam von dort und ich verbrachte einige Jahre in Lübeck. Verpassen Sie das Land. Wir haben viele Bestellungen nach Deutschland ausgeliefert. Frage mich nur, wo in Deutschland Sie sind? Am besten zu Ihnen.
Herr Eric Spain
Bitte verzeihen Sie mein Deutsch mehrere Jahrzehnte schon und ich bin mit einem Übersetzer.
Quoted from zaza:It was difficult to follow the measurements, especially when somewhere between post#45 and #119 the leads were swapped on his multimeter.
What are you talking about Zaza my leads arnt swapped, there long leads and in those steps I was checking for contuinity way before I installed this kit. I fixed the 2 GI strings I was having a problem with easilly once I had the schematic from German-pinball!!!
Quoted from Docent_Elect:Face it pinheads, some people you just can't help.
My background is 35 years electronics repair and design with a PMEL degree from the AIR FORCE.
We have several MAJOR relaters for our products, kits and cables.
And I was willing to help him until the day after I talked to him on the phone,
he filed for a refund with ebay.
AND FOR THE RECORD...
We have never had a negative feedback on this kit.
Apparently he has some other problems that interferes with his cognitive reasoning.
I think this is because I told him I do not have time to look at his board
to find out where he messed it up.
You should have taken lukex and sent this to someone who has the proper skills.
And It was YOUR UNTESTED DEFECTIVE BRIDGE RECTIFIER (BR2) THAT FRIED MY BOARD! You offered no help almost instantly blaming me for taking out the 5v and just blew me off telling me to do some voltage tests and good luck. You got a lot of nerve selling me this cheep kit then blaming me then jumping down my throat! I should repost your atrocious ebay messages, case and point your kit took out my board, you were little to no help. You sent cheep parts that were untested, INSTALLED PROPERLY and fried my working driver board not only costing me $58 from you now another $300 for a replacement at Rottendaeg!!!
Why don't you learn how to use a multimeter and do a 2k ohms check to see if a resistor is blocking properly, I would imagine it should be EVEN WORSE under load!!!
Maybe some should try and tell him a 1. in diode test is an open,
Not a short.
Try and do it right and reverse the leads to get a proper reading.
Basic testing 101
You should not be let anywhere near electronics.
Stick playing with your toys.
You have no clue on testing.
A first year Electronics Student could do better.
Sorry pinhead,
but this guy just does not have a clue.
Yea ok its the MOST basic of tests checking a diode on ohms scale to see if it's blocking the current. YOU SHOULD NOT BE SELLING THESE JUNK UNTESTED CHEEP KITS!
Is this your professional meter?
Would you like a real set of test leads?
I can't resist charity cases.
And is a unsolicited second option,
Again:
You certainly destroyed one or more vias (through holes) of BR 1 and/or BR 2.
Look at this photo:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/0/0f/WPC_Brdg_1and2_Removed3.JPG
You soldered your BRs from the bottom side of the board and all seems OK, BUT on the Top side of the board, you can see traces too, and 2 of them are very delicate, if the vias are destroyed, there is not connection and I am sure, you destroyed the vias.
That would be CHEAP not cheep, we're not birds.
And there quality parts. Rohs and ISO 9002 certified
Oh that's low now your attacking my test leads. Dude case and point your kit with its DEFECTIVE Bridge Rectifier fried my board and as cheep as it is! It may be 1 in 10 or 1 in 100 but you've CLEARLY shown your professional manor man In completely wezeling out of any responsibility! Like I said THANKS FOR THE SHITTY $58 FAN and the $300 replacement board I have to get now!
Thanks bigd1979,
I really tried to help this guy.
Just didn't like getting stabbed in the back for it.
BTW,
We now have many of the hard to find large caps for the Gottlieb System 3s
33,000uf snap cap. and others,
Also, we bought out Molex on the System 80 series pins.
We have replacement kits for the 3, 5 and 7" inch cables.
They are pre pinned and comes with a free economy pin pusher.
Best to you all
Mr. Eric Spain - Owner
No dude its you that don't have a fuc*** clue costing me $358!, and for the record I had a guy come over today whos a certified electrician and say all ALL my soldier points on this board look fine!
Quoted from Docent_Elect:You certainly destroyed one or more vias (through holes) of BR 1 and/or BR 2.
Look at this photo:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/0/0f/WPC_Brdg_1and2_Removed3.JPG
You soldered your BRs from the bottom side of the board and all seems OK, BUT on the Top side of the board, you can see traces too, and 2 of them are very delicate, if the vias are destroyed, there is not connection and I am sure, you destroyed the vias.
I agree that is the current issue at hand. There are some traces/feedthroughs damaged.
I been there and done that too!! It is not easy taking the bridge rectifiers out, but I learned to cut them off at the bottom side of the part and then heat and remove each pin individually. The big 15000 uf caps are a completely different story finding a safe way to remove them.
Quoted from gmkalos:Darin is just pissed I wouldn't take his extremely low ball offer on my playfield aren't you man!
Dude what are you talking about? Ive never tried to buy anything from you nor wld i ever from the way you act.
Quoted from bigd1979:Dude what are you talking about? Ive never tried to buy anything from you nor wld i ever from the way you act.
You just tried to buy my cc tftc pf on flebay and low balled the shit out of me. Remember my brother can pick it up he lives in Front royal. - turbobigd (ebay handle)
I have every right to be pissed this shitty kit fried my board, cost me $358, he insults me after just blowing me off spending 9 min on the phone and 3 ebay messages offering no help, I clearly have shown the bridge rectifier that was supplied in this kit has an internal diode short in two of the four diodes, and he continues to try and pick me apart like a little school girl. Lets talk about YOUR DEFECTIVE BRIDGE RECTIFIER YOU SUPPLIED IN THIS SHITTY KIT THAT FRIED MY WORKING BOARD DUDE!
Quoted from gmkalos:You just tried to buy my cc tftc pf on flebay and low balled the shit out of me. Remember my brother can pick it up he lives in Front royal. - turbobigd (ebay handle)
Ahh ok man whatever u say... i rarely use ebay and that is not my handle?. I have no use for a tftc playfield eaither? I and all my family live in Hagerstown . Not sure what your deal is but get your facts straight before you mention me or anyone again. Did u ever think there is more than one big d? Im bigd1979 on every forum if u must know....
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