Hi guys I've been throwing parts at my Party Zone trying to fix the GI red PF lights and the lower back box lights with no success? When I got the game the lower half back box lights weren't working, then a week ago the gi red string on the pf went out. After replacing connectors J120 and J121 there was no change so I assumed they were just triacs and bought some BTE-600E to replace the BTE-500E triacs I thought were blown and no luck there still out. Additionally the little red led #201 on the power driver board is not lit? I know they both have good ground since I jumped the a lead off the top lights on the back box and made both strands light up? Any suggestions or continuity tests I'm completely dead in the water here. My problem strings are illumination string 1 (brown triac q-18) and string 4 (green triac q16). Occasionally 1 out of 20 games the red gi will turn back on and when I hit the ramp (when they should switch) they turn completely off?

Big help thanks dude!!!

Ok checked continuity and I think I'm fine on the power driver board threw connectors J120 & J121 to the triacs and from the triacs to conector J115. I started reseating everything I could on the MPU board and just noticed that the led D20 is flashing and D19 is out on the MPU board? I also noticed the MPU is a different serial number. Both strands are still out?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Yes I did check resistance threw the pins and reflowed them all 3 connectors J115, J120 & J121. I think I may have found a clue to whats going on, I pulled out the MPU and reseated everything I could, it had no repairs other than the switchline chip socket installed. On the mpu when I start up the d19 is dead, d20 flashes constantly and d20 stays on. I literally checked and reseated every connector and ribon cable. I measured the GI voltage that I know is working and on the yelow string it is at .06V, the violet string is at .07V this seems really low to me, batteries are at about 4.6V thought my multimeter was acting up or something so I tested the coin door lights at the socket and .07V every led is at a really low voltage??? I'm at a total loss here, I don't even know how the led are lighting lol?

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I took my time on the J115 and cleaned the pins checked continuity threw the connector and board, it was burnt but but the bad pins were changed, I will change it but it seems to be working fine for now

10-4 I will change it right now with some automotive pins I have untill I can get the connector.

I ran out of connectors the top 3 wires just feed the right side of the pf gi and is working fine

I just remembered that my power supply connector was hacked up a bit, I don't think it would affect anything since its only feeding 2 wires on the other end but here are some pictures I'm honestly no expert a/c voltage scares the shit out of me still, I was a professional mechanic a lifetime ago lol.

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Its only temporary dude untill the new connector comes in I just ordered it, so say something constructive or stop being a pest.

Anybody have any useful ideas on where to go to next this is one murder mystery I have to try and solve!

How is he trying to help, he is berating me at every opportunity. I clearly acknowledged the burnt up connector and its right side pf function don't feed the troll man.

we were on a roll.

I did check continuity threw that top 3 pins and there fine.

I totally screwed up had the multimeter set wrong.

I want to publicly apologize to PinballManiac40 I'm sorry dude kinda jumped off the handle there.

Thanks man.

Ok let me pop that back into place and I was going to try and test for voltage at the triacs to see if its the signal from the MPU not switching on the triacs or what? The only thing that gets me is like 1 out of 10 games the red gi will turn back on magically but it only lasts for a min.

I just did some tests the triacs are not switching on I can use my lead and jump them right at the pins on the transistor and they read voltage. The weird thing is on the brown string (which are the red gi) I'm actually getting 6.6V on the wire feeding the lights, and some resistance on the ground threw the fuse .12ohms, but I have already done a continuity test ant it was fine? I tested that yellow cluster and its just a kinda bad solder job but showing perfect continuity threw the connector. Heres a ton of pics because you seem to have the eagle eye for sure.

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Another thing that is totally throwing me is that i'm getting positive voltage on both the + & -of the green and brown string GI WTF?? The brown is getting 7.1 on the fused side and 6.6 V on the triac/ground side, and the green string is getting 7.1v on the fused/hot and 5v on the triac/ground side??? The violet string which is working is getting 7V on the fuse side and .1v on the triac/ground side I just tested that as a base. All test were made using the ground strap on the bottom right. This might be the best clue yet?

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I did reseat it and checked continuity threw that pin and all the others there all the same circuit and all go to J115 and one spot on the transformer.

yes i will try I ordered all 3 connectors off marco yesterday.