(Topic ID: 288233)

Parts Tumbler Advice

By CoolCatPinball

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Madmax541
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    There are 51 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 3 years ago

    I'm looking to buy a vibrating parts tumbler for my first restoration project. What does everyone use/recommend as far as brand/size. I searched the forum, and the existing threads are all more than 6 years old. So, the recommendations are outdated. ANY and ALL advice regarding the small parts polishing process is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

    #2 3 years ago

    If you want a good cheap option, this 18lb from HF has been holding up the longest for me. The smaller one they sell sucks. All the other smaller versions like Cabelas sells are ok but I’ve went through 6 of them. For occasional use, they may be fine.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-vibratory-bowl-with-liquid-drain-hose-96923.html

    #3 3 years ago

    I'll throw my hat in for Berry. I bought this one last year and have been very happy with it. It's sturdy and quiet.
    https://www.berrysmfg.com/product/ber-qd-500-vib-tumbler-110v

    #4 3 years ago

    Thanks guys! I'll look into both of those. I have a harbor freight local, but the price on that berry is attractive. What you using for media? Walnut? I was reading up on that from some other threads

    #5 3 years ago

    Walnut/reptile bedding is what you want. I've had the best results from Flitz with it.

    That Berry one will not last unless you use it occasionally. Trust me, I've had that version under different brands.

    #6 3 years ago

    Had this for over a decade now. Won't die.
    https://www.lymanproducts.com/2500-pro-magnum-tumbler

    #7 3 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    Walnut/reptile bedding is what you want. I've had the best results from Flitz with it.

    Great recommendation. Reptile bedding is same consistency as walnut shells recommended for ammo tumblers, but a fraction of the price.

    #8 3 years ago

    I bought the small harbor freight for my first restore and it fell apart after the second run-through. Obviously can't recommend but also, I ended up not using it much. I found scotchbrite was way faster for larger metal parts and I simply replaced any old fasteners that looked bad.

    Doesn't seem necessary to me but I know others like them.

    #9 3 years ago

    i have the smaller 5lb Harbor Freight one - i did have one of these fall apart on me the 2nd time I used it but they replaced it, that was prob 15 years ago.

    I dont use it that often, but i use the walnut shell stuff from the pet store, in fact i just got some Monday, $7.99 for this bag.

    They're great for tossing in tedious, small stuff and frees you up to do other things while your parts are tumbling. I don't throw screws in there anymore because the walnut medium gets packed into the screwdriver slot and you have to clean them out. As an additive I use a "heavy cut" compound similar to Novus 3.

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    #10 3 years ago

    I wonder if that small one from harbor freight might be my best bet. Its 1 restore project I'm doing. Depending on how it goes, I may never want to do another

    And, if it does break, the HF store is about 5 miles from my house and I pass a 2nd location every day going to/from work.

    #11 3 years ago

    Here is what my center shaft looked like after minimal use, it completely removed the threads and you could slide the wingnut off. Vibrations like this are really tough on materials and HF is bottom of the barrel in terms of quality. Also, it really didn't clean the parts that well and left inconsistencies that required cleanup any way. I really don't see the appeal of these for pinball, it take minutes to clean up metal with a scotchbrite pad.

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    #12 3 years ago
    Quoted from killerrobots:

    Here is what my center shaft looked like after minimal use, it completely removed the threads and you could slide the wingnut off. Vibrations like this are really tough on materials and HF is bottom of the barrel in terms of quality. Also, it really didn't clean the parts that well and left inconsistencies that required cleanup any way. I really don't see the appeal of these for pinball, it take minutes to clean up metal with a scotchbrite pad.
    [quoted image]

    Wow, that's no good. I'll definitely give the scotch brite pad a try tonight on a few parts since I have some on hand. But, I was really hoping to be able to plop a handful of metal parts in, and have them all done overnight.

    #13 3 years ago

    If it matters I like the very fine scotchbrite (mine is brown and I get them at Home Depot in the sandpaper section).

    #14 3 years ago

    So glad you guys have found a use for commercial reptile bedding...cause that stuff sucks for reptiles! Been a reptile keeper for over 30 years, bred big and small, live bearing, egg laying and ovovipirous herps and man, just about anything with a picture of a reptile on the package is worthless for keepers. Sandy loam is all you need.
    I use the larger HF tumbler, had it for about 4 years, still works great.
    What medium do you guys use for polishing?
    B

    #15 3 years ago

    I've gone through a few of the small harbor freight tumblers. I have a nice expensive one as well, but the harbor freight is actually quicker to clean parts. The problem with the harbor freight seems to be how fast it vibrates and its off balance. It often vibrates its self apart causing the lid to shake and wing-nut eventually to fall off.
    My first one failed, and had the same issues show in someones post above. I double nut close the unit and have not had issue since.
    People often overload the unit, also causing excessive balance and wear issues.
    They used to put them on sale, and you could buy an extend warranty for very little. They replaced my first unit for free. My last unit I have had for 5 years without issue.

    My small HF will actually clean the parts quicker than my high dollar unit. Dont get me wrong the HF is bottom of the barrel but it works. If your doing 1-2 machines, then get the HF and double nut it. If you plan to do more, than buy a quality unit.....

    My high end dollar unit is: https://rocktumbler.com/thumlers/model-uv10.shtml. It's slower, but a much better made unit. HF sell walnut media cheap. Been using that for years with a little metal polish or Brasco.

    #16 3 years ago
    Quoted from BrianZ:

    I've gone through a few of the small harbor freight tumblers. I have a nice expensive one as well, but the harbor freight is actually quicker to clean parts. The problem with the harbor freight seems to be how fast it vibrates and its off balance. It often vibrates its self apart causing the lid to shake and wing-nut eventually to fall off.
    My first one failed, and had the same issues show in someones post above. I double nut close the unit and have not had issue since.
    People often overload the unit, also causing excessive balance and wear issues.
    They used to put them on sale, and you could buy an extend warranty for very little. They replaced my first unit for free. My last unit I have had for 5 years without issue.
    My small HF will actually clean the parts quicker than my high dollar unit. Dont get me wrong the HF is bottom of the barrel but it works. If your doing 1-2 machines, then get the HF and double nut it. If you plan to do more, than buy a quality unit.....
    My high end dollar unit is: https://rocktumbler.com/thumlers/model-uv10.shtml. It's slower, but a much better made unit. HF sell walnut media cheap. Been using that for years with a little metal polish or Brasco.

    Excellent information! Thanks!

    #17 3 years ago
    Quoted from killerrobots:

    Here is what my center shaft looked like after minimal use, it completely removed the threads and you could slide the wingnut off.
    [quoted image]

    I had the same problem with my HF.
    Bought a Berry and I’m on my third restore and haven’t had a single problem.

    #18 3 years ago

    Life is too short for cheap tools...

    #19 3 years ago

    Harbor Freight I had gouged holes in the side pretty quick, no thanks.

    #20 3 years ago

    I have 2 Berry's. First one died after 15 years of use. Found new motor bearings from a thread and now it's running again. I bought the HF when Berry #1 quit. The cheap small model. The 2nd time I used it the wingnut worked it's way loose and deposited a pile of dust in a 4 foot circle around it. All that was being polished was 20-30 PF posts. It's garbage. I tossed it in the trash. Bought my 2nd Berry and it's great. Then found the bearing thread on the Berry model and now have 2 working fine. I'll stick with what works and that's not a HF POS.

    #21 3 years ago
    Quoted from killerrobots:

    Life is too short for cheap tools...

    You got that right. Cheap tools are just that, cheap. As someone who worked in automotive service for 30 years, my socket sets are Snap-On. I'd rather have a Snap-on socket set from the 60's to 80's than anything on the market today. Better quality.

    #22 3 years ago

    I bought 2 berry vibratory tumblers at the start of an Indiana Jones restoration and they ran for 3 weeks straight! Have no complaints other than I’m still on the hunt for a bigger one for some bigger parts on games.

    #23 3 years ago

    Well, perhaps I need to go about finding a Berry's in stock. I need one soon.

    #24 3 years ago
    Quoted from dmacy: That Berry one will not last unless you use it occasionally. Trust me, I've had that version under different brands.

    Over 10-15 years of tearing down games I probably went through 4 or 5 of that model Berry, with HEAVY use. Like 'loading it up before going to bed and it running 7+ hours often' use. Maybe it's made with crappier parts now, I haven't had one for 5 years or so, but they were great when I was buying them.

    #25 3 years ago
    Quoted from killerrobots:

    Life is too short for cheap tools...

    Disagree. Cheap tools are a great way to determine if you need better ones. I have some that get rarely used. They might not be the best but when they wear out I know to get good ones. When they dont wear out, I know I didnt need a better one.

    #26 3 years ago
    Quoted from dung:

    Disagree. Cheap tools are a great way to determine if you need better ones. I have some that get rarely used. They might not be the best but when they wear out I know to get good ones. When they dont wear out, I know I didnt need a better one.

    Bingo. I only buy quality tools, and typically stay away from HF. But the flip side, if I am going to only use something once or not sure its something I will reuse HF fits the bill. If I don't use it again, or it fails its usually trivial $$$.

    If your thinking this hard about it, then buy the quality one. I bought the HF, and then moved onto a nice one. I got the HF for $49, and my nice one was over $300.

    -1
    #27 3 years ago

    My dad was pretty cheap and didn't like to spend money on tools. I have this vivid memory of picking up a pair of side cutters he had that were super cheap and probably 30 years old and I realized that nobody throws away tools and if I bought a cheap hammer I would have that same hammer 30 years from now. I personally decided that I would buy decent tools (maybe not the best) and when I was old I wouldn't hate my tools. Other people can do what they want but cheap tools make me sad.

    #28 3 years ago

    I've used a cabelas tumbler for 12 years with heavy use. It's just now struggling, but still runs

    #29 3 years ago
    Quoted from miracleman:

    Over 10-15 years of tearing down games I probably went through 4 or 5 of that model Berry, with HEAVY use. Like 'loading it up before going to bed and it running 7+ hours often' use. Maybe it's made with crappier parts now, I haven't had one for 5 years or so, but they were great when I was buying them.

    Could be. I use it very heavy too. Usually 1-2 weeks straight 8-12 times a year.

    #30 3 years ago

    Can’t speak for American brands, but get the biggest one you can afford/fit.

    #31 3 years ago

    I have the small Harbor Freight one, and the threads on mine were destroyed relatively quickly. I replaced the threaded shaft with a 1/4-20 version I purchased at the hardware store, and replaced the corresponding hardware...been going strong for years now.

    #32 3 years ago

    If you are reeeeeeally cheap, the reloading folks do this:

    #33 3 years ago

    Haaaaa!! That's funny! I'm going to pick up a HF piece of shit after work today, along with a new 1/4 20 bolt and some nuts. I'll see how it goes. If it sucks and falls apart, lesson learned. I can return it, and I'll order a better one. I lose nothing but my time doing it this way.

    #34 3 years ago
    Quoted from killerrobots:

    My dad was pretty cheap and didn't like to spend money on tools. I have this vivid memory of picking up a pair of side cutters he had that were super cheap and probably 30 years old and I realized that nobody throws away tools and if I bought a cheap hammer I would have that same hammer 30 years from now. I personally decided that I would buy decent tools (maybe not the best) and when I was old I wouldn't hate my tools. Other people can do what they want but cheap tools make me sad.

    I do. If I find myself using it often and cursing its existence, it gets replaced.

    Example, started with a cheapie soldering iron. Was causing me fits, upgraded to a WSD51 which at the time was 200 dollars (a decade ago).

    Flipside, have an. 80 dollar desoldering station. It works better than my buddies hakko and see no reason to upgrade.

    Latest purchase is a 50 dollar hot air station. I do not have a huge need for it, but if i find it to be a pita, it will go.

    Some things just don't matter. My harbor freight wrenches work as well as my og crafstman. Snapon have better ergonomics, but they aren't worth the premium.

    #35 3 years ago
    Quoted from dung:

    Disagree. Cheap tools are a great way to determine if you need better ones. I have some that get rarely used. They might not be the best but when they wear out I know to get good ones. When they dont wear out, I know I didnt need a better one.

    I generally agree with this, with a few exceptions. If the tool has the ability to kill you, its a hard pass for me. You couldn't pay me enough to get a under a car with cheaply made Chinese jack stands. I have seen a few jack stands just let go and break their welds.

    #36 3 years ago

    Actually, turns out I do know about American brands ‘cause I bought one and didn’t even realize it was American lol.

    Would have gone the bigger size up in hindsight but this one is good for 80% of parts.

    This thing has been bulletproof- highly recommended though probably not the cheapest.

    Also use Flitz additive and Walnut shells. Results are always great.

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    #37 3 years ago

    I bought the HF and the Berry. The HF one had metal parts break through the shell, which was likely my fault for putting a few larger objects in it. Some epoxy resin and carbon fixed it. That said, the berry is far superior and worth the extra $. Also, if you are doing a restoration, consider getting an ultrasonic cleaner. They are well worth it.

    #38 3 years ago
    Quoted from Johncare07:

    I bought the HF and the Berry. The HF one had metal parts break through the shell, which was likely my fault for putting a few larger objects in it. Some epoxy resin and carbon fixed it. That said, the berry is far superior and worth the extra $. Also, if you are doing a restoration, consider getting an ultrasonic cleaner. They are well worth it.

    I'm not sure i want to use the term restoration as its my first attempt and my experience with such things is low. I prefer to use the term " rehabilitation "
    I'm giving this machine new life as it has been in storage, torn apart for years. Just to give everyone an idea, the new playfield that came with the purchase was clear coated roughly 12 years ago, and never installed.

    #39 3 years ago

    Large HF works great filled with walnut and a big squirt of Novus2

    Make sure the wing nut is on tight, and replace the fender washer when you lose it; otherwise you'll chew it up.

    #40 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Large HF works great filled with walnut and a big squirt of Novus2
    Make sure the wing nut is on tight, and replace the fender washer when you lose it; otherwise you'll chew it up.

    The man himself!! I've been reading a lot of your guides Vid. Thanks for the effort!

    #41 3 years ago

    Harbor freight is great for specialized tools you will have minimal use for. Need to think of them as almost single use tools. Having one a half mile from me is quite handy.

    Nut drivers, sockets, spanners, screw drivers, hammers, etc — don’t cheap out.

    Also high recommend getting a quality tool chest, nothing better for keeping tools easy to find. My father-in-law was shocked I did not have one and within hours of getting one, I was “why didn’t I get one sooner”

    As far as tumblers, haven had a berry for years, lid cracked early on, duck tape to the rescue, seems newer models have a better lid now.

    #42 3 years ago

    #43 3 years ago
    Quoted from rosh:

    Harbor freight is great for specialized tools you will have minimal use for. Need to think of them as almost single use tools. Having one a half mile from me is quite handy.

    Nut drivers, sockets, spanners, screw drivers, hammers, etc — don’t cheap out.

    Like other companies (Snapon vs Blue Point), HF has the cheap tools and the pro-grade stuff (Pittsburgh vs ICON)

    You can get the $400 Snap-On 80 tooth torque wrench or the HF $100 ICON 90 tooth torque wrench.

    Snap-on has one year warranty, ICON has lifetime warranty.

    It's fun watching the tests on which wrench is more accurate:

    Or the ultimate "stress to failure" with a cheater pipe, lol:

    #44 3 years ago

    Having owned a fair amount of Snap-On tools earlier in my career, I am kind of enjoying seeing them put in their place these days. 20 years ago, there is was a big gap between consumer tools and professional tools. Today, the gap is closing up fast. I would really hate to be the one owning a tool truck right now. The Snap on route in my area has had a new operator fail 5 times in the last 11 years. Snap-On has nearly priced themselves out of the market.

    #45 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Like other companies (Snapon vs Blue Point), HF has the cheap tools and the pro-grade stuff (Pittsburgh vs ICON)
    You can get the $400 Snap-On 80 tooth torque wrench or the HF $100 ICON 90 tooth torque wrench.
    Snap-on has one year warranty, ICON has lifetime warranty.
    It's fun watching the tests on which wrench is more accurate:

    Or the ultimate "stress to failure" with a cheater pipe, lol:

    Wow, I do own a bunch of snap on and mac tools from my younger years. I may have to look into the Icon stuff I ever need replacements

    #46 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Or the ultimate "stress to failure" with a cheater pipe, lol:

    That's awesome, fell in love with some flex head ratcheting wrenches from Tekton. Been my go to brand ever since for hand tools. Never heard of ICON before now.

    #47 3 years ago
    Quoted from cooked71:

    Actually, turns out I do know about American brands ‘cause I bought one and didn’t even realize it was American lol.

    I own the same one. Expensive but built like a tank. But takes longer than other units to polish.

    11 months later
    #48 2 years ago

    I have started polishing some parts from my AFM in my new vibratory polisher. I took apart the slingshot assembly to polish it (see photo). Is it ok to do the crank arm since it has a plastic end riveted to it? I am using #12 walnut shell media and i'm not sure if it will erode the plastic. Any experience with this? Thanks.

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    #49 2 years ago
    Quoted from Deleenhe:

    I have started polishing some parts from my AFM in my new vibratory polisher. I took apart the slingshot assembly to polish it (see photo). Is it ok to do the crank arm since it has a plastic end riveted to it? I am using #12 walnut shell media and i'm not sure if it will erode the plastic. Any experience with this? Thanks.
    [quoted image]

    Yes I do that and it’s fine. But I’ll be honest, how old is the game? It’s old and they’re original. I get new sling parts for them on every playfield swap I can get them for. New everything but the coil. It makes a difference.

    #50 2 years ago

    Fair point but I'm so excited to use my new polisher I'm gonna just give it a rip. The playfield swap will be next year so I will get some new parts then. Thanks for the note.

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