(Topic ID: 272304)

Particle board cabinet repair

By dr_nybble

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by dr_nybble
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

Getting started on a Gay 90's after a long hiatus...

Even in 1970 I guess manufacturers were shaving costs. The back of the cabinet is particleboard and pretty chewed up at the bottom. One big chunk missing. Have a look:

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What would you recommend as a repair? I believe the joint is just a 45° bevel, nothing fancy.

I'm thinking to heat the corners with a heat gun and hopefully tap the back out and replace with plywood.

Another option I think is to cut say the bottom 6" off the back and replace with plywood rather than removing the whole back.

Not sure whether resin repair is an option, considering the whole lip is gone and I don't think I'm going to be able to biscuit joint a strip of wood onto that particle board!

#3 1 year ago

I have had some very nice success with this procedure:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/repairing-bottom-of-classic-bally-cabinet-

Yves

#4 1 year ago

Well step one is done. I removed the back, it was no easy task. I drilled four holes near the corners and used a jigsaw to remove the bulk of the back. Then I used a plastic-faced hammer to remove the bottom and side parts of it by breaking the glue. A lot of cleanup on the joint with a chisel. The top part was nailed and glued really well, that was mostly chisel work to remove and took a long time, but it is done.

Bought a 2x2 3/4" birch panel from Home Depot and a 45° chamfer bit. The joint is actually a rabbeting miter so it'll be done with two different router bits.

#5 1 year ago

Took about 2 hours to make the back. I used a router table with a rabbet and 45 chamfer bit, and a 1/4” straight bit for the bottom slot. Had to make straight cuts with my sliding miter saw as I don’t have a table saw.

Turned out pretty well, after the glue has dried it needs a bit of sanding on the corners and some paintable caulk at the top. Overall a success.

Need to make a corner block for one leg as I lost one while removing.

The original support blocks seem greenish, poplar?

#6 1 year ago

Mine wasn’t as bad as yours. I made a form along the entire bottom edge and filled it with fiberglass resin. Seems very strong. Time will tell.

#7 1 year ago

Replacement corner brace made from poplar. Drilled with a 15/32” bit and then cut with two 45° cuts. Done on a sliding compound miter saw which I do not recommend. Portable table saw is on my list to buy.

Used to have a nice Delta table saw but just don’t have enough space in my basement to make it practical. And no garage.

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