Got a new project Paragon. I replaced the F5 fuse and the game plays, lights are all on, however the single left pop switch does not work, and the middle and right pop switch of the 3 do not work, and the center top target switch and the two outside star switches up top do not work. The pop coils all fire in test so it seems to just be the switches. I have tried to jump the switches and they still do not work. Other issue is all the backglass lights do not light. The two up top and bottom that are sectioned off in the panel do light but all the main lights that light the backglass do not work. Any ideas? Thanks.

Edit: Issue resolved. bad capacitors on switched caused them to stay closed. replacing capacitors resolved issue.
backbox lighting issues were due to J3 connector on the A2 board. Pins were burnt and female connector wasn't making good contact.

I dont see it say 0 in the coin display but this is my first SS game. When running through tests inside coin door based on the manual, the one just after the drain sound is the stuck switch test I believe. It shows 30 on the displays, which 30 would be the top center target I believe, meaning that switch is stuck open?

Ok, so because of what you said and 30 was stuck open, I cut the capacitor and then ran switch test again and it changed to 34 which is another switch not working. 30 (center target) is working now. Is it safe to leave it working without a capacitor? Sorry, I don't know enough about this. I am assuming if I keep cutting capacitors these switches will all work, just not sure that's the best resolution??

I have shorted and none worked. Also the top rollover switches did have a capacitor.

Thanks, sorry. I'm still learning. That makes sense. So I have cut the 5 capacitors of the five switches that were stuck closed, and they all work now. So I need to order capacitors. Can I buy these? 0.047uF, 50 Volt Ceramic Capacitor. Would they be the same on all switches weather it runs a pop bumper or not correct? Thanks again.

Does polarity matter?

Awesome, looks like my local Radio Shack has the .047 so I'm gonna go grab a handful and put those on tonight. Also just as an update I found a connector running to the A2 board that has 2 burnt pins on it. I am going to take it apart tonight and see if that fixes the lighting issue and then probably replace that connector.

Update: Looks like all is fixed. The two center pins on the J3 plug on A2 board were not making good contact. After adjusting the female end the backbox is lit as well.