(Topic ID: 280734)

Paragon help

By BrianVH

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by BrianVH
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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paragon light driver Molex (resized).jpg

#1 3 years ago

Looking for help on my first antique game. Bought a US version Paragon a few days ago. All original except for a recent allteksystems MPU board upgrade. The only thing I can find that doesn’t look original is one of the molex connectors leading into the light driver has been individually wired without solder on the wires (electrical tape only) and plugged into the board individually. The upper right side. See picture. The game played great before and after transport to my mancave. I ran a diagnostic via the test button on the coin door last night and everything came out great. Played about 30 games that worked proper before the score displays simultaneously stopped showing anything other than ones and zeros. Then I couldn’t start a game. Flippers worked but all other solenoids were inoperative. Meanwhile the MPU originally would react to pushing the self test and reset buttons. However, after 4-5 on/off cycles only the D38 5V light comes on. Nothing happens when I push any of the other buttons on the MPU. I've never seen the red overload light come on. Will not self test on start up as it did before with the 8 light blinks. Now the playfield lights come on when powered up but nothing else. I unsuccessfully tried the MPU clear system process. It will not respond or blink as as it is supposed to at the end of the protocol. All the voltages are as they should be on the MPU test sites (TP2-6) and solenoid driver via TP1/GRND has 5V. I’ve checked all the fuses, connectors, pins and am wondering if the MPU might be bad?They are supposed to be bulletproof.

paragon light driver Molex (resized).jpgparagon light driver Molex (resized).jpg
#2 3 years ago

Sorry I'm not familiar with the buttons and lights on the Alltek MPU, but the first thing I would do is repin all the connectors on the MPU if not already done. While you're at it, also repin the connectors on the SDB. Guessing the MPU was replaced due to corrosion, as there is corrosion on your lamp driver board. Corrosion on the MPU would have likely ruined some pin connectors.

#3 3 years ago

Disconnect the two connectors on the right side of the MPU (the Alltek). Then see if the MPU will boot.

Also, that tape job needs to be fixed immediately. Get some shrinktube and start soldering. Because that mess will never work reliably.

Also, as Jethro said, it’s probably time for connectors all around. But let’s check the MPU first.

#4 3 years ago

Disconnected the 2 connectors on the right side of the MPU. Nothing changed. The only light that comes on is the green power indicator (D38). When I hold down the reset button the MPU self test light comes on (D4). As soon as I release the button it turnes off. No flashing as though it wants to self test. Also, when it was working D4 glowed dimly. Now it is completely dark. Does this indicate there may be an MPU problem? I have visually inspected, alcohol wiped, and vaccumed all the connectors on the boards and other than the ugly tape job shown above. I will be getting some solder practice later tonight on that. Stupid question as I'm pretty new to pin repair: What do you mean by repin? Does that mean remove and solder on new pins, recievers, or both?

#5 3 years ago

Try setting the Alltek dip switches to a different rom temporarily. The first flash test is the rom checksum so when you held the reset down and the LED was on then went out, it was able to start reading the rom (enough to turn the LED off, as that's one of the first instructions the software does).

Alltek supposedly has lifetime warranty (although that might only be the initial purchaser I don't know) so before doing any kind of solder/modification to it, might want to contact them to see what they think.

#6 3 years ago

Will try different positions and if no resolution, will call them Monday. I really appreciate everyone's input!

#7 3 years ago

Welcome to Pinside!
Just a couple thoughts I have from your picture and what you've mentioned.

-Looks like the lamp driver board may have some acid damage that the MPU above it may have dripped down. I see some fuzzy green on the back of one or two of the lamp drive MCRs. May want to check out the whole board and make sure its good all around. Replace the damaged components and cleanup the damage the best you can.

-If the whole game is relatively "fresh", you may want to check the rectifier board to make sure its working correctly along with the power sections on the SDB. Some components can put out power just fine with no load, then act dead when under a load. That can make testing be a bit weird if not done both under and not under load. The bridge rectifiers can act like this.

-Buy a lot of headers and pins as all those Molex 0.1 and 0.156 headers and connectors will need some work. The headers are the strips of tall metal connectors on the boards. They are plated from the factory, but it wears off and was likely crap to begin with. They will need to be de-soldered from the board and replaced. The pins are in the long thin plastic housings that connect to the headers. They are friggin tiny, but hold the wire in place when connected. As with the headers, they wear out and were crap to start with. Get new ones and replace them on connectors. These need to be crimped on and are not soldered at all. You can even see some green goop sometimes in the connectors from where the wire insulation has degraded over time that can be problematic. Please don't sand the headers. That's not a fix, just a Band-Aid (Not saying you would, but I've seen it and it wont last, you'll be re-sanding all the time).

-As mentioned above, get rid of the electrical tape fix. Get headshrink and solder all those wires correctly. Get a few zip ties to hold it all together as well once its repaired.

-Check under the playfield for shorts or other such hacks. also check the fuses in the game. Remember that a fuse may meter out as "okay" but will still be bad.

I don't have much experience with the Alltek boards, but I've heard their support is pretty good. The board should not need pins replaced. They can likely just be wiped down and it'll be fine. The connectors to the Alltek will need to be examined though as those are likely original to the game.
Sorry for the book of a response, I just start typing and then this happens...

#8 3 years ago

I appreciate the response JDissen87. I need all the help I can get. Will keep the post updated as I figure things out!

#9 3 years ago

Can't recall his name, but the guy that does tech support for Alltek is awesome.

Before calling or emailing, I would suggest you try removing all the connectors on the CPU board except J4. You removed J2 and J3 earlier, but the board only needs J4 to boot. Pull J1, J2 and J3 and see if you get any flashes. If still no flashes, give Alltek a call.

#10 3 years ago

Just pulled all but J4. No change. Calling Alltek today.

#11 3 years ago

It looks like you may be missing your solenoid power, +43 VDC. Did you check that yet? I would start at the rectifier board and then move up to the SDB and see where it is dropping out.

#12 3 years ago

So, David at alltek is pretty awsome. We did some voltage tests with just J4 installed and discovered that my solenoid driver had failed and that allowed enough current through to presumebly ruin a chip on the MPU. He is crediting me and replacing the MPU. I'm upgrading to his driver board and lamp driver as well. Now I just need to finish soldering the above wiring mess and clean up the rest as JDissen 87 recs. Will provide update when done.

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