(Topic ID: 278077)

Paragon dies after I flip

By coop

1 year ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Atari_Daze
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#1 1 year ago

I turn on Paragon, start a game, plunge... and then the first time I flip the flipper the game dies. The GI is still on but the scores go dark and the playfiled kinda flickers. Sometimes the game restarts.

I'm sorta new at repair so here's my questions.

1. Do you think it's the solenoid driver board?
2. If so is there a guide on how to check the parts on the board with a multimeter? I know I can buy a new one and swap it but I thought it woudl be more fun to learn how to repair what I have.

Thanks,

Coop

#2 1 year ago

You're having some problem on the +43 volt buss. Is it just when a flipper flips? Check diodes on the flipper coils to make sure no back EMF goes down the +43. If pop bumpers and slings work could be in this area. CPU needs to see good +43 to work properly.

BTW: It is generally good to check all solder joints and connectors on the SDB before going too deep...could have a loose connection there.

#3 1 year ago

I doubled back. When you said it was the flippers I tried to find which specific flipper is causing the problem. It turns out that I can flip either flipper without any problem but if I flip them both at the same time the game shuts down? Does that give you any more infomation?

#4 1 year ago

Maybe a problem with solenoid voltage (+43) dropping under load. I would start by checking the connectors mentioned in my previous message. Do you have schematics as there are test points called out for verifying voltages?

https://www.ipdb.org/files/1755/Bally_1979_Paragon_English_Manual_color_with_paginated_schematics.pdf

#5 1 year ago

a misadjusted EOS switch can cause this. Press the plunger link in with your finger, power off of course. The EOS should open at about 75-80% of the switch stroke. For the double flipper side, the second EOS on the lower flipper that activates the upper flipper, that should be configured break-make with the inside EOS.

4 weeks later
#6 1 year ago

One month later. I finally just bought a new Alltek solenoid driver board. Unfortunately, I still have the same issues.

In the video below. I went to check the EOS switches and the playfield was just... possessed. I have no idea what would make it do that. The EOS switches seemed fine to me—they look like they might have some carbon build-up but the gaps seemed ok to me.

I checked the voltages on the new driver board and they were spot on so I'm at a loss. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Lastly, I'll mention that I dripped the new board and played a full game. After I had walked away about 5minutes later I heard the game "click" and it had shut down just like before. Once I rebooted I was back to just hitting both flippers to kill the game.

Thanks for your help!

#7 1 year ago

I'm trying to make my way though this guide.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

It's a little over my head but I do see that my problem is called a reset issue. It's common yet there could be about a million things that could cause it.

However, I notice on the new solenoid driver board when I check the test points for the voltage the middle point read 16V on my multimeter. On the board it says that it should be 12v. Would this be an indication that the Voltage Regulator has failed?

Screen Shot 2020-10-26 at 8.00.55 PM (resized).png
#8 1 year ago

That is the incorrect pinwiki section for a Bally Paragon.

Paragon falls in this catagory: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

#9 1 year ago

if you have a new SDB board, what about your rectifier board?

I would also advise you to post on the thread below, lots of smart people hovering over there
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from coop:

the voltage the middle point read 16V on my multimeter. On the board it says that it should be 12v. Would this be an indication that the Voltage Regulator has failed?

That's the input to the voltage regulator, 16V should be ok.

1. What does the 5VDC test point TP6 measure when the game is in failure mode?

2. Is the game running an original MPU board? If yes, can you post some pictures of it?

3. Does the problem occur if you activate other playfield solenoids?

4. Was your original solenoid driver board a factory Bally board?

5. Is the failure symptom with everything flickering the same between the two (old and new) solenoid driver boards?

#11 1 year ago

Always check EOS adjustment by pushing in the plunger with your finger and not by turning the flipper.

#12 1 year ago

I was having an issue with my Paragon resetting at random tines after engaging the right flippers. It may be something different than what you are experiencing coop but here is a link to a thread I had in case it helps:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-paragon-resets-with-right-flipper-why

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

2. Is the game running an original MPU board? If yes, can you post some pictures of it?

You know this one got me thinking. the MPU was original and it was thrashed at the bottom with battery acid but it has worked for a couple of years with no issues so I assumed it was still good. I actually had an Alteck MPU in another game so I swapped that out and BOOM, it's fixed.

Thanks for the tip Quench . Also thanks to nplg BigAl56 mr2xbass hisokajp and TractorDoc for helping me get my Paragon flippin' again!

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from coop:

the MPU was original and it was thrashed at the bottom with battery acid but it has worked for a couple of years with no issues so I assumed it was still good.

It's actually an acid that is used to remove the alkaline corrosion. This topic discuss the issue. Your example really helps illustrate how important it is to neutralize the issue early on, or have a similar outcome as you did.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid

Thanks for posting your solution!

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