Thanks for taking the time to post all of those pics of the overlay. The writeup on Pinball News was good, but it is always better to see the product on the same game that you might want it for.
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Thanks for taking the time to post all of those pics of the overlay. The writeup on Pinball News was good, but it is always better to see the product on the same game that you might want it for.
Compare that decal to an original Paragon apron. The Bally logo is wrong, the other fonts and text are wrong, and it is missing the circle motif at the center. It's like the guy couldn't be bothered to get it correct. Why on Earth would Planetary license this crap?
I just rolled my Paragon!
I've had my seven digit LED displays for a while. it's nice to finally put that extra digit to good use.
I have to admit that my Paragon is set for five ball play, but I didn't even get a Super Bonus until ball three. Besides, if I set this one to three balls like my other games, my wife and daughter wouldn't even play. This game is brutal.
Steve Kulpa has a clear photo and a wiring key at his site:
http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/as-2518-18-wiring.htm
Quoted from srcdube:bloody cheaters!
Yep. This is what mine looked like the day I brought it home. The guy I bought it from had been boasting how his son used to roll the machine all of the time.
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:Legs all the way in up front, all the way out in back.
That’s how I’m set up as well. With stock Bally legs and levelers it gets me about a 5.5 degree incline. I’d suspect 6+ degrees is a bit much for many early SS tables.
I have mine more or less all the way out in the back and all the way in at the front. This gets me around 5.5 degrees. It's nice and fast, good size to side action and not too floaty. YMMV.
Quoted from tatman9999:Just joined the club. It in rally nice condition. I am thinking of restoring it. Clear coat playfield.
That’s one of the nicest original examples still around. Nice find! In my opinion, the only thing that needs restoration are the light bulbs. Keep it original. Restoration is for the blown out, marginal machines. Once you start, there’s no going back to the original condition.
Quoted from tatman9999:The left orbit shot could never be made after drop are down because plastic is on wrong
That clear diverter at the Treasure Chamber appears to be factory correct.
Yes. I think I read that they added it rather late in development to keep the ball from overshooting the saucer.
Yeah. Mine are discolored like that as well, although not quite as dark as those photos present. I think it is the continuous exposure and heat from the lightbulb that causes it. The varying degrees of discolorization would seem to support this.
Quoted from pinfixer:Playboy is usually credited being the first because of the well-known tune, but in fact this honor goes to Paragon!
I thought Playboy predated Paragon, but please do post the name. I can’t place it, even though I’ve heard it all these years.
Quoted from Daditude:Added today:
Solved.
Will you post what the resolution was? It might help others in the future.
Did CPR finish their Paragon run? Has anybody heard anything? There's another thread saying they are shipping Space Invaders playfields now.
Quoted from Cherries_Jubilee:As they said publicly: they are making Paragon pf's in waves of 20-30 at a time...........the first batch was wave 1
Thanks. I did not see that announcement.
25 pin SCSI connectors! Is that so you can remove the head without disconnecting from all the boards and feeding the harness down into the lower cabinet? Hilarious!
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:It looks awesome.
Congrats on the new playfield! Can you confirm whether it was silk screened or is printed using CPR’s new digital output?
Normally I’d look at the halftones, but I’m not sure that there are any on Paragon. Use a loop or a nice magnifying glass. Is it continuous ink?
Quoted from toebes:Has anyone ever encountered this?
I can't tell for sure from your photo, but is the first downed target cresting a little above the playfield?
It’s hard to see in your photo, but it looks like you are missing the plastic standoffs between the switch leaves that FLASHBALL’s photo shows.
I suspect they mean the “view topic image gallery” link at the top of the page, but isn’t there a speaker wire hack in that linked image?
Marco has reproduction caps in stock.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3713-50-PCS
Quoted from John_I:Their Paragon apron decal is terrible for instance...
It really is bad. I wish I had searched for reviews before I purchased one from him years ago. Lesson learned. Never again with that vendor. Fortunately, I ultimately found a replacement apron at a fair price from someone who was parting out a machine.
There are a few different sound options depending on some dip-switch settings on the MPU. That may explain the difference you are hearing.
I had the green X-pin 7 digit on my Paragon for a few years. I definitely liked the look. I pulled them and went back to plasma while troubleshooting an intermittent reset issue. I decided I may prefer the classic appearance. I only roll this tough damn pin a few times a year. Maybe I’ll decide to go back to 7 digits if I get on a run. I’ve been playing all weekend, and it doesn’t look like it will be any time soon.
@MyParagon1979, I am curious as to the ACA shield on your apron. Is that an operator sticker? What does the smaller text say?
Quoted from JethroP:Just curious...why are you looking to replace what you have?
Agreed. I installed a capacitor as a battery replacement on my Paragon years ago, back when NVRAM solutions were less readily available and more expensive. It has worked flawlessly for years. The only real issue to be mindful of is that if you leave your game off for a period of months, you will likely loose your settings. That's never been an issue for me, as I play this beast regularly.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:I’d assume under the rails would be the best guess to match the yellow.
It looks like you can get a good idea of the original red from under the rails as well. If you are going for the authentic look, this cabinet had spattering all over it, much like a lot of EMs.
As I recall, that style post is threaded like a wood screw. It is simply screwed into the plywood with no other fastener needed. If you over drilled, just cut and fill with some sections of bamboo skewer and fill with copious amounts of wood glue (I like Titebond II).
Perhaps I am remembering incorrectly. It has been a very long time since I disassembled my Paragon's playfield. Sorry for any bad info.
In my experience, $2500 in new parts very rarely equates to $2500 in added value to early solid state pins. My advice is to finish the project and play the snot out of it. Paragon is a super fun title, but I fear that you may be way upside down on that one.
I personally will not do business with Classic Arcades for any product ever again. As KOLK1 suggests, clean your existing playfield and hang it as is. That playfield wear is its lineage. It adds character.
Quoted from sullivcd40:All the way up in back, all the way down in front on all my games.
Same. On mine I think that equates to about six degrees.
My first ball strategy is to shoot the Golden Cliffs saucer on plunge. A well timed nudge when it releases to the pop bumper below will often result in the ball going back to the saucer. Rinse and repeat until you fail. Once the ball is in the lower playfield I rock the spinner until the first Super Bonus. Then I focus on the inline drop targets.
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