(Topic ID: 69394)

Paragon Club... the Valley of Demons

By schwarz

10 years ago


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  • 1,901 posts
  • 255 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Deadlander
  • Topic is favorited by 111 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #103 Sound Board Pins/Wires - Photos Posted by BC_Gambit (10 years ago)

Post #183 Rectifier Board - J1, J2 & J3 wire photos Posted by Cheddar (8 years ago)

Post #269 Mini Flipper - Stock Black Lettering Posted by Captive_Ball (7 years ago)

Post #274 Cabinet Stencils - Pinball Pimp Posted by Captive_Ball (7 years ago)

Post #287 Bally Flipper Bat - Pinball Life Posted by Captive_Ball (7 years ago)

Post #301 Bally AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board - Wiring Key Photos Posted by zombywoof (7 years ago)

Post #384 Removing Metal Spacers from Plastics Posted by Captive_Ball (7 years ago)

Post #515 MPU J3 Connector Photos Posted by Captive_Ball (6 years ago)

Post #608 Mini Flipper - Buy it at PBR Posted by meSz (5 years ago)

Post #622 Saucer coil stop = A-61330 Posted by Captive_Ball (5 years ago)


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#105 9 years ago

Paragon owner here from the UK! Had mine since Good Friday 2013. It was my first pin and a total junker. Bought condition unknown - just collect and pay. But what a bargain it's turned out to be! First off, Paragon is simply the most beautiful pinball machine ever made! After a few weeks rebuilding the power supply and resurrecting the dead MPU I got a working, playable machine. Lots of little niggles, like stuck switches and dead lamps, but it actually worked and played. Happy days.

I've started a major restoration project which I'm documenting in my shop log here on Pinside: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adventures-in-budget-restoration-1978-bally-paragon

I'm still undecided as to what sort of restoration to do? Either way it'll play perfectly and all the mechanics and electrics will be fully serviced and replaced accordingly, i.e., the stuff you can't see inside the machine will be made to work like new so it plays beautifully. But not sure how I want to handle the aesthetics? Do I keep it in original yet very faded condition or go the "whole hog" and do full playfield restoration, clearcoat, cabinet respray, stencils, etc.? At the present I'm erring towards keeping it original as I would hate to make a bad job of the restoration. Faded original much, much better than a botched respray!

The answer to that is obviously a matter of personal taste. As @vid1900 keeps repeating hardcore Mustang collectors would prefer rust on original paint over a respray, but other enthusiasts want a fully-pimped custom 'rod that's a world away from the original car.

Over 600 photos on my Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/peterduerden/sets/72157633156984778/

Here's a video of the first time I switched it on after fixing the PSU and MPU: https://flic.kr/p/eyKR9m and a picture of the day I brought her home. I didn't even any leg bolts!

8616324352_46a71fab06_z.jpg8616324352_46a71fab06_z.jpg

2 weeks later
#107 9 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

Has anyone here installed one of the playfield protectors yet? They are available in Europe and they may become available from Bay Area Amusements, along with the others that they sell. I am strongly considering it as it should eliminate the raised/sunken insert issues and it would arrest any further loss of artwork.
Any comments for or against?
Thanks!

Going to make my own as I've had a complete playfield overlay made but I don't want it clear coated. But unlike the ready-made protectors it won't be cut to shape, it'll simply cover the entire playfield before refitting the hardware. The protectors available in Europe cost €130 - around $180. They're made out of 0.75mm MAKROLON clear polycarbonate. I got a roll big enough to do 5 playfields for about $50. And when it eventually becomes dull and scratched just buff it with Novus.

#109 9 years ago
Quoted from Crispin:

Hey that's interesting nedreud. What are you using to cut the polycarbonate? I want to cover my playfield for the same reasons EEE just posted.

Hi Crispin,

I won't need to do too much cutting as I'm going to cover the entire playfield edge-to-edge, so only holes and slots for parts like drop-targets, pop bumpers, saucers, switches and screw/bolt holes. 0.75mm is really easy to cut with a Dremel multi-tool using a rotary cutting bit:

RotaryCutter.JPGRotaryCutter.JPG

However, in about 3-6 months time I'll have access to a large flat-bed CNC milling/cutting machine on which I hope to make a brand new playfield. I would then be able to use this to cut playfield protector too!

#111 9 years ago

Got the polycarbonate on eBay, but I'm in the UK and I'm guessing you're most likely in the US? Just search for "polycarbonate sheet" or by brand names such as Makrolon or Lexan.

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