need a little help. I was repinning connections testing the game after every finished connector.
I turned the game on to hear a pop..... ahhhh shit....

it's the J3 connector on the solenoid driver board, I started tracing down wires back to their source and checking via the manual. Think I already found one issue (not sure how I could of messed it up that bad). I was hoping someone could snap a pic of that connecter with the wire colors.
I had been taking pics of connectors not sure why I didn't with this one. sucks...

thanks

DSCN0448 (resized).JPG

DSCN0444 (resized).JPG

side note: there was some janky wires on the back that looked like they were put on after the factory. (not sure of there purpose yet)

as for the j3 connector
the only one I moved so far was #4 to #3 since that is what the manual said. then I stopped and was like well let me post on the forum just so I have a second way to verify.

I popped the headers back out because they were to short, plus it seemed a little weird that so many were soldered together.
on the solder side of the board for the J3 connector
1- 10 by them selfs (good based on manual)
11-12 connected (good based on manual)
13-17 connected (good based on manual)
18-24 connected (18-22 connected via manual) 23-24 are just ground pins so I guess thats fine
25 by itself (good based on manual)

something tells me this isn't right and the manual is only raising more questions.

that's awesome! thank you very much.
I knew I put that white wire in the wrong place (makes me feel better knowing the manual was telling me the truth). was on auto pilot repining all those connectors.
looking forward to seeing what other damage I incurred from this mistake.

thought I'd let you know that everything is back to normal, spending hours upon hours repining these connections is a lot of fun.
I even rewired the transformer, since I had all the matching wire colors.
having some issues getting this 7 digit display to work, I emailed xpin they said that its probably the connectors so or the driver board.

Thinking it's the 24 pin .62 connector that connects to the displays that are the issue. Since this is paragon I opted to go with gold plated pins .
they are like 20 cents per pin compared to like 3-7 cents for a tin pin, but hey it's paragon. love games that make me curse the world I was born, they get special treatment.

any reason the higher pitched sounds don't stop on my paragon?
guessing there is an IC chip that needs to be replaced

that's actually almost identical to what I'm hearing, If I read your post right. say the ball goes in the paragon scoop the last sound will continue to play until something like a pop bumper is hit, then it'll stop. awesome, I think I might even have that part if it's Q2... maybe. Thank you

done and done, I only have two factory boards right now in it (since that's the way I bought it). recapped (at least the electrolytic), new headers, new regs, new pins, new displays etc. I even cleaned out some mud dobber nest while I was at it. hope to someday re-stencil the cabinet, but my garage is being taken up by a car that needs to be fixed. my bumper and multiple car parts are all over the place . hoping someday I'll make some time for it.

Never even crossed my mind to check what those were for . I just tried adjusting them, and still the same. The game has gotten progressively worse as time went on, so I'm guessing it's probably one of the board components srcdube mentioned. definitely good to know though

it's getting easier to see what the issues could be when you understand how the system works. gonna check on it tomorrow, hoping it's q2.
hoping I got a q2.

Yeah been messing around with tax stuff and TNA, been meaning to check out the issue. I tried adjusting those two potentiometers like he mentioned and no matter how they were adjusted it didn't seem to help. After looking at the transistor, I don't think I have that specific one but something close. Gonna check the specs to make sure it's gonna work. can't seem to find any info on f2n3904, I have a 2n3904. assuming it'd be fine but....

question, there seems to be a slight delay between my two right flippers. I know there is going to be a delay to some degree, but it shouldn't be that noticeable.

My two left flipper are almost instantaneous as soon as the button is pressed. I checked a video to make sure, and yeah there is something off.

All the flippers were rebuilt with all new parts, except the brackets.
I tried adjusting the EOS to see if that would make a difference... didn't see much of any. Probably will revisit it though.
was thinking it might be the flipper leaf switches (pitted really really bad)? it looks like the flipper switches go direct to the coils (via schematic), so if they aren't getting enough current then I would assume there would be some issues.

Still waiting on the leaf switches and a gate to come in from PBresource, but until then if anyone else has an idea I'm open.

yeah went back through replaced the flipper leaf switches, not much difference. (still happy I changed it out though.)

Guess it was all in the EOS, I have it to where the second switch makes contact first, a split second before the first switch opens. Then I had to bend it down another 1/4" past where I had it before, before the plunger hit the coil stop. Helped out a lot, still a slight delay, but a world better then it was.

It's hard to perceive the difference in video's, you have to be there in order to see what the deal is.
my only grip is the previous owner installed a playfield protector due to the cupped inserts, that isn't the bad part. There is no way to really raise the drop targets to level them out for the 5x shot. This causes the ball to hit 4 big speed bumps on the way, which makes the shot that much more difficult to make. (cupped inserts or 4 speed bumps hmmmm...) Guess I'm gonna have to make something to raise it a bit.
I'd love to raise the inserts and clear, maybe some day....

Should be able to, I think. Problem is finding something that is the exact height... or maybe taping a few machine screws into the bottom of the mech to hit the plate for a finer adjustment. Similar to what recent games have.

Think it depends on how bad the inserts are, I know on a lot of EM's they drive me nuts. Might not be as bad in this game.

looks really good, wish I had the motivation to go that far with mine.
did you use the newer style flippers? they look narrow near the tip, maybe that's just my eyes.

all this early SS stuff is still relatively new to me.
one other thing that seemed odd to me was when the ball comes down on the flipper with any force and your holding the flipper up it has a tendency to push the flipper down and flip the ball back up after the magnet force re-engages with the plunger. as if the coil didn't have enough strength to keep the flipper in the hold position. Is this normal behavior for this style of game? all three main flippers do this so I'm thinking its normal maybe? I've played early SS's enough but don't remember this really being a thing.

I know the castle shot on game of thrones can do this to the right flipper (at least push it down). That's coming at it with a lot of force, and near the end of the flipper so I'd expect that to happen.

think u might be right

k, well I swapped out the new ones I had in there with the old ones and yes it seems to hold a lot better.
the new ones I got were from pb resource they came in a rebuild kit from that year but look slightly different (everything else was the same ). think I need different coil stops.
maybe A-613-127? marco has these
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-613-127

pic of kit I got, kit had pretty much everything except the additional stacked switch on the EOS. Think I'm gonna start buying individual parts instead of the kit, seems a lot of times especially on newer sterns, that one piece breaks long before its time for the full kit.

kt-bflip-03 (resized).jpg

Awesome, will do. I have to say I've rebuilt several later model stern and Williams, but even though a lot was the same, there were still a lot of nuances that remained unclear with this era of pinball.

I rebuilt all four at the same time. Probably didn't need to, but I replaced all the coils on them as well, resistance tested out with that model coil.