(Topic ID: 69394)

Paragon Club... the Valley of Demons

By schwarz

10 years ago


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  • 1,900 posts
  • 255 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 24 hours ago by Mtkst19
  • Topic is favorited by 111 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #103 Sound Board Pins/Wires - Photos Posted by BC_Gambit (10 years ago)

Post #183 Rectifier Board - J1, J2 & J3 wire photos Posted by Cheddar (8 years ago)

Post #269 Mini Flipper - Stock Black Lettering Posted by Captive_Ball (7 years ago)

Post #274 Cabinet Stencils - Pinball Pimp Posted by Captive_Ball (7 years ago)

Post #287 Bally Flipper Bat - Pinball Life Posted by Captive_Ball (7 years ago)

Post #301 Bally AS-2518-18 Rectifier Board - Wiring Key Photos Posted by zombywoof (7 years ago)

Post #384 Removing Metal Spacers from Plastics Posted by Captive_Ball (7 years ago)

Post #515 MPU J3 Connector Photos Posted by Captive_Ball (6 years ago)

Post #608 Mini Flipper - Buy it at PBR Posted by meSz (5 years ago)

Post #622 Saucer coil stop = A-61330 Posted by Captive_Ball (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#765 4 years ago

Anyone have an extra little dog-bone shaped plastic that goes right in front of the pop bumper over the target?

10 months later
#874 3 years ago

Now you can use an IBM 386 to replace those battery acid damaged boards!

8 months later
#994 2 years ago

Very fixable. The playfield looks decent. This will be an awesome project for someone.

1 year later
#1502 1 year ago

There's a nylon flipper bushing that screws to the bottom of the playfield with 3 screws. When installed the top surface of this bushing should sit proud of the top side of the playfield. That surface basically sets the height of the flippers.

Check to make sure the screws that secure the bushing have not come loose first. If that's ok I would check to see if there's wear between the top of the bushing and the bottom of the flipper, which would also lower the flipper.

Also, there are many of these bushings available with slight variation on dimensions that look the same to the naked eye but are different when measured with a dial caliper. It's definitely worth making sure the right ones have been installed so you don't damage the artwork under the flippers.

2 months later
#1527 1 year ago
Quoted from T3quila:

Thank you for the response!
I'm not familiar with that material at all (phenolic), so a few questions:
If I drop that in an unltrasonic cleaner or dish washer -> OK or not OK?
Is that cuttable with scissors, or would you suggest something different - The original link has rounded corners, so I was thinking cutting it with scissors, but the material may be too brittle for that for example or too hard.
To get the holes, I do have access to a drill press, wood drills ok?

That will be too hard to cut with scissors. A hacksaw would work. This material can be worked similar to wood. I've drilled holes with a very sharp drill and by hand. No need to put it in the dishwasher as they wipe clean very easily. I would bevel the edges by sanding with 100 grit.

4 weeks later
#1547 1 year ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Paragon lovers.
What would it take to sell your Paragon?
Simply curious, I'm not really looking to sell mine but have someone interested in it. So what's your twist my arm price?

Rough project - 800
Player's condition flips good with playfield wear, decent backglass and a few bad lamp sockets - 1800
Good condition with nice playfield and backglass - 3200
HEP restored - 10,000

1 week later
#1553 1 year ago
Quoted from T3quila:

The length is bonkers: 57/128. The closest Pinball Life offers is 3/8 or 1/2 but that's either 1.7 mm too short or 1.4 mm too long.
There is a small washer on top of the spacer as well.
I don't see a part number for those anywhere.
On the playfield, the majority of the machine post studs (https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5012-02.html and https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5010-02.html) is 2" long overall which are S-2124 and S-2125 (1-11/16 length of the bottom part in the catalog).
But there are also a few S-2124-1 and S-2125-1 mixed into it - they are 1-7/8 overall length and the bottom part is 1-1/2" (per Bally parts catalog)
Are those supposed to be there or did they just get replaced with what was at hand and everything should be the longer ones instead?
In terms of spacers, I suppose I could replace ALL of those spacers to be either 3/8 or 1/2 and then just screw the studs in deeper / less deep, I would have more leeway with the longer studs I assume.
Edit: Looks like PBR has 3/8 long Gray spacers, In combination with a couple of plastic washers from McMaster-Carr that could work. For all I know Steve may have the right size on hand and just not advertised.

Years ago when parts weren't as easy to find I made my own spacers from the cut down tube of an old plastic pen.

3 months later
#1742 11 months ago

I rebuilt my flippers. They immediately had a ton more power. Then within the first few games I cracked the small plastic over the center middle target off a flip.

Still looking for that plastic by the way.

4 months later
#1803 6 months ago
Quoted from Joe-Pin:

Hi Guys,
I have Paragon that needs some blue touch up on the cabinet. Any recommendations on type/brand/color type?
Thanks

I always custom mix touch-up colors because over the years everyone's cabinets have faded to varying degrees. As a matter of fact, I almost always end up mixing different shades for the right side of a cabinet compared to the left side of the same game. If that thing sat parked with a window on it's left side for fifteen years at some point in its life, that left side will have more fade. May even have a different hue comparing the front and back of the same side.

I usually use Createx paints for small spots because I already have them around for playfield touch-up, but if it's a large area I sometimes revert back to something that I can get cheaper in large quantities. Keep in mind I'm no pro.

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