(Topic ID: 69394)

Paragon Club... the Valley of Demons

By schwarz

8 years ago


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  • 1,285 posts
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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Daditude
  • Topic is favorited by 100 Pinsiders

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12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 1,285 posts in this topic. You are on page 24 of 26.
#1151 3 months ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

In that case, Any chance you have a bunch of old plasma displays laying around?

I usually give them to whomever is in need, when I have them. The next time I have a set available, I'll let you know.

#1152 3 months ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

The only reason I have the XPIN displays in my Paragon, is for the addition of the 7th digit. I roll over a million points on mine occasionally and I wanted to retain that score. But I have other Bally games I'd gladly put plasmas in.

You can put Bally seven digit displays in there with the seven digit software from several years ago by Oliver. That's what I'm going to do when I get around to paragon.

#1153 3 months ago

I had the green X-pin 7 digit on my Paragon for a few years. I definitely liked the look. I pulled them and went back to plasma while troubleshooting an intermittent reset issue. I decided I may prefer the classic appearance. I only roll this tough damn pin a few times a year. Maybe I’ll decide to go back to 7 digits if I get on a run. I’ve been playing all weekend, and it doesn’t look like it will be any time soon.

#1154 3 months ago

Yes-no-maybe?
Amber in advance bonus.
New LED in back glass. Amber on lion mouth and left hair.
Anyone use yellow on the lions right eye?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1155 3 months ago

Alright I think I screwed something up on my Paragon. I had recently installed a new bridge rectifier board and everything worked except my playfield GI then I touch the head GI to the playfield GI a saw a spark, what could I have shorted out on the game> Help!!! Fuses are all good..

#1156 3 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright I think I screwed something up on my Paragon. I had recently installed a new bridge rectifier board and everything worked except my playfield GI then I touch the head GI to the playfield GI a saw a spark, what could I have shorted out on the game> Help!!! Fuses are all good..

Oh no Pac-Man!
Still unresolved.
Assuming you confirmed GI bulbs didn’t blow?

#1157 3 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I had recently installed a new bridge rectifier board

Were your GI working before you replaced the BR board?
Can you be more specific....what do you mean you touched the head GI to the playfield GI? Where and how? The GI's are connectored to the BR board at J1, J2 and J3.

#1158 3 months ago

Leveling some inserts and sucking in some Varathane.

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#1159 3 months ago

Any of you guys have extra plastics you're willing to sell? I'm looking for the large back left and right corner pieces. Yes I know I can buy a whole new plastic set but the rest of my plastics look pretty good after I straightened them using the oven method so I don't need to buy a full new set.

#1160 3 months ago

What do you guys like for LED lighting? Mine came with 4smd cool whites in the GI. There are no domes on any of the GI bulbs so it's pretty harsh on the eyes. I was thinking of just keeping it simple and going for one bulb type for GI and backbox (either frosted sunlight or frosted warm white). 1smd for backbox and 2smd for GI or just 2smd for the whole thing?

#1161 3 months ago
Quoted from Foxxstone_80:

What do you guys like for LED lighting? Mine came with 4smd cool whites in the GI. There are no domes on any of the GI bulbs so it's pretty harsh on the eyes. I was thinking of just keeping it simple and going for one bulb type for GI and backbox (either frosted sunlight or frosted warm white). 1smd for backbox and 2smd for GI or just 2smd for the whole thing?

I’m doing mine now.
I got 2smd frosted warm white for all GI, but I think it’s a bit bright. So I just ordered some 1smd to share with 2smd on the backbox.
For playfield I’m having fun and trying different ideas. I just ordered 2 lighting strips for the top, one for the left side and for the gutter. We’ll see……

#1162 3 months ago
Quoted from MyParagon1979:

I’m doing mine now.
I got 2smd frosted warm white for all GI, but I think it’s a bit bright. So I just ordered some 1smd to share with 2smd on the backbox.
For playfield I’m having fun and trying different ideas. I just ordered 2 lighting strips for the top, one for the left side and for the gutter. We’ll see……

I'm leaning towards just keeping it simple and doing 1 smd fosted warm white for back box and GI. I'm all for brightening up games that have dull lighting but I feel that this particular machine looks better with more subdued lighting.

#1163 3 months ago
Quoted from Foxxstone_80:

I'm leaning towards just keeping it simple and doing 1 smd fosted warm white for back box and GI. I'm all for brightening up games that have dull lighting but I feel that this particular machine looks better with more subdued lighting.

Honestly, I don’t think it matters if you use 1smd vs 2smd, because the most important change was getting rid of THIS!!!!!!!!

826209B1-E4B5-444C-BC55-0C2407AE6D51 (resized).jpeg
#1164 3 months ago

I like to use 2smd frosted sunlight for just about anything I do with GI. You can't go wrong with sunlight. It's the perfect middle point between warm and bright. In fact I don't bother ordering anything else. Some people color match inserts, I agree it looks better than just throwing white under them but to simplify things I just order sunlight for everything.

#1165 3 months ago
Quoted from MyParagon1979:

Honestly, I don’t think it matters if you use 1smd vs 2smd, because the most important change was getting rid of THIS!!!!!!!!
[quoted image]

Haha yeah, agreed! Those green LEDs were switched out immediately after I took the picture.

#1166 3 months ago

Anybody know if these are Left or right: DROP TARGET NUT AND SPRING BRACKET. Trying to replace the ones on the vertical drops. Thank you.

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#1167 3 months ago

I think these might be correct from Marcos. However, I can’t tell which direction the angle is pointing.

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#1168 3 months ago

I’m happy… but everyone has different likes. Just figured I would share. Back glass with warm white, soft yellow and Orange.
Field has combination of several colors and strips, but not in your face with the colors.
Unfortunately, photos always seem to mess with the colors…..

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#1169 3 months ago

As seen above I installed red trough lighting. I used a 44/47 base with a led strip attached, inserted in the bulb base under the apron. It worked at first, then a day later was flickering, then didn’t work. I extended the led wiring and used alligator clips under the playfield and the led works fine.
The curious thing is I thought the bulb base under the apron was GI. But now it’s dead. No voltage. Put a bulb and nothing. Tested with micrometer and nothing. Just seems odd if it’s GI?

#1170 3 months ago
Quoted from MyParagon1979:

As seen above I installed red trough lighting. I used a 44/47 base with a led strip attached, inserted in the bulb base under the apron. It worked at first, then a day later was flickering, then didn’t work. I extended the led wiring and used alligator clips under the playfield and the led works fine.
The curious thing is I thought the bulb base under the apron was GI. But now it’s dead. No voltage. Put a bulb and nothing. Tested with micrometer and nothing. Just seems odd if it’s GI?

It's not GI. It's a credit indicator, for areas that aren't allowed to show the # of credits in the backbox. But it works all the time anyway even if the credit display is on.

#1171 3 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

It's not GI. It's a credit indicator, for areas that aren't allowed to show the # of credits in the backbox. But it works all the time anyway even if the credit display is on.

I have plenty of credits.
So, this is wired through the lamp board?
Maybe I blew a rectifier?

#1172 3 months ago
Quoted from MyParagon1979:

I have plenty of credits.
So, this is wired through the lamp board?
Maybe I blew a rectifier?

Stick a regular bulb/led in the socket alone and go into lamp test to find out.

If it was one of the normal smaller SCR's on the lamp driver board it might not be able to handle an LED strip. Led's draw less than bulbs for sure but the draw still ads up. How many LED's were on your strip? Some individual ones of course draw more current than others.

You pull too much current through the SCR and it blows.

#1173 3 months ago

Y’all are AWESOME!
I checked the wiring again.
I’m getting 3 v to the apron socket,
And 6 v to GI.
Is that normal?
I put a LED bulb and it works, flickers a bit. Should I change to regular bulb?
Based on your advice I realized these were GI as well and placed LED, and they look great!

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1174 3 months ago

Starting to refurbish this old beast. Not sure how far I'm going to go with it, but she needs some love. Everything on this thing is filthy. I don't think it's ever been cleaned! I started with shooter rod assembly, I replaced everything but the rod...the spring on it was some random hardware store spring that was definitely not intended for a pinball machine. In the picture the spring is on the left compared to a regular pinball shooter rod spring on the right. I polished the lock down bar, it was so full of scratches. I worked my way up to 800 grit sandpaper then buffed it with general metal polish. Turned out pretty decent. I did the same treatment to all the metal ball guides under the apron. New flipper buttons, see the old gross ones for comparison. Rebuilt the right drop target bank. Pretty simple design, just needed new springs, new coil sleeve and of course a thorough cleaning, like everything else it was super filthy. Next up is, new rubber rings, pop bumper rebuild, and all new coil sleeves for every coil. I also found a lot of loose posts that needed toothpicks/glue treatment to tighten up the screws in the playfeild. There is a post in between the flippers that needs to go, I'll have to do some touch up over that spot because there is already holes there. The playfeild overall is a bit rough with lots of random mylar put down after the damage was already done. I'm still deciding what I want to do with it....remove mylar and clean and wax well or do something like a hardtop/overlay.

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#1175 3 months ago

Doing the old Bally two-step on that Paragon. Nice to see. So many just got abused and forgotten...those flipper buttons look new compared to the ones I just pulled out of a HGT.

I spent all week rebuilding Bally Pops and man is it worth the effort. So important to have strong and crisp pops on these machines.

That Lockbar is looking good, now.

#1176 3 months ago

I'm not quite sure what "old bally two step" means but this thing definitely has been used and abused. I go to fix one thing and find two other things that need to be fixed also. It's a fun game but I'm not sure how long it will last in my collection. So I'm trying to fix as much as possible without sinking too much money into it, which can be a hard feat. Luckily these older SS machines are fairly straightforward and easy to work on.

#1177 3 months ago

It means you are gonna end up rebuilding just about all of the mechs, because they are tired and relatively simple to do.

Get it running well and spend some time with it. I think you will find it is quite an addictive machine.

Personally I think it has a lot more staying power in a collection than most credit it for...but I am a big fan of games from this era.

#1178 3 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

It means you are gonna end up rebuilding just about all of the mechs, because they are tired and relatively simple to do.
Get it running well and spend some time with it. I think you will find it is quite an addictive machine.
Personally I think it has a lot more staying power in a collection than most credit it for...but I am a big fan of games from this era.

That's kinda what I figured it meant. "old bally two step" sounds about right then lol. Working on another parts list now... I'm finding that all the coil stops are beat to hell so they need replaced too. I'm going to work in sections and slowly refurbish everything.

It's definitely a fun game! I really like early solid states and wide-bodies so this will probably stay for a while. I'm just trying to reign myself in and replace only what needs to be replaced. The urge to buy all new parts like new plastics and a new backglass is strong. I'd like to get new cabinet decals and redo the cabinet but then where do you stop? Lol.

#1179 3 months ago

The Lock down reciever was super crusty and rusty. A few minutes with the the flapper wheel on a drill followed by some steel wool got it looking good again.

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1 week later
#1180 87 days ago

Sad day, I broke my first drop down in the valley of demons. Should I try to replace it with the whole drop down box in the machine, or remove the whole box? Is there anything special, outside of taking my time and being careful?

#1181 87 days ago
Quoted from MyParagon1979:

Sad day, I broke my first drop down in the valley of demons. Should I try to replace it with the whole drop down box in the machine, or remove the whole box? Is there anything special, outside of taking my time and being careful?

I normally desolder the coil, unscrew the switches and remove the entire box from the machine.

#1182 87 days ago
Quoted from MyParagon1979:

Should I try to replace it with the whole drop down box in the machine, or remove the whole box?

I usually replace drop targets with the assembly remaining in the machine.

#1183 87 days ago

As long as you’re working on it, I suggest checking the condition of the coil sleeve and consider replacing the drop target springs.

#1184 87 days ago

Shockingly, it was simple and took 15 minutes. It was the first drop target. Easy to access. Removed both spring clips, then replaced.

#1185 87 days ago

Ron Kruzman just finished restoration and clearcoat of my NOS playfield. Here's one pic, the rest are on this page: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/kruzman-monthly-playfield-thread/page/38

Will share build/install pics...

Paragon (resized).jpg
#1186 85 days ago

Haven't had a chance to do much with the beast due to my work schedule, but I got a few rare consecutive days off in a row and decided to tackle a few smaller projects....Got my package from comet! I went with 2smd Sunlight in the GI and 1smd warm white in the back box. I tried 2smd sunlight in the back box but the colors looked washed out and not nearly as rich as they do with warm whites. Also did a much needed overhaul on the inline drop target bank. They were nasty, looked like someone decided to grease them up with used motor oil. I broke everything down, deep cleaned and polished all the parts, and added new drop targets and new springs. I also printed out a new coil label. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Next up are the apron and coin door.

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#1187 85 days ago

Wow. Nice job on the drop target assembly. Looks great.

#1188 85 days ago
Quoted from Foxxstone_80:

Haven't had a chance to do much with the beast due to my work schedule, but I got a few rare consecutive days off in a row and decided to tackle a few smaller projects....Got my package from comet! I went with 2smd Sunlight in the GI and 1smd warm white in the back box. I tried 2smd sunlight in the back box but the colors looked washed out and not nearly as rich as they do with warm whites. Also did a much needed overhaul on the inline drop target bank. They were nasty, looked like someone decided to grease them up with used motor oil. I broke everything down, deep cleaned and polished all the parts, and added new drop targets and new springs. I also printed out a new coil label. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Next up are the apron and coin door.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like your coil is upside down, at least compared to mine.

#1189 85 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Looks like your coil is upside down, at least compared to mine.

It's just an electromagnet as long as the diode is installed correctly and the lugs don't interfere with anything, it will function the same.

Always good to check though. Shorted lugs are a quick way to burn up fuses.

#1190 85 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Looks like your coil is upside down, at least compared to mine.

Quoted from FLASHBALL:

It's just an electromagnet as long as the diode is installed correctly and the lugs don't interfere with anything, it will function the same.
Always good to check though. Shorted lugs are a quick way to burn up fuses.

As long as it's wired correctly it will work either way. This is how it was when I pulled it out of the machine as you can see in the before pic. But I was planning on flipping it around due to the damage that the vibrations from the end stop can cause to the diode and as well as breaking solder on the lugs. Looking at the parts manual it appears that the coil was indeed originally flipped from how I have it. So i'll make sure to change it, I just forgot to flip it around for the after picture.
bally inline drop target assembly (resized).png

#1191 85 days ago

I thought the story of Greg Kmiecs' signature red post was pretty cool. My game however, had all matching posts, it was most likely removed a long time ago. Action pinball surprisingly had one in stock. The game feels a little more complete to me now.

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#1192 84 days ago

I thought it was supposed to be the outside post on the spinner?

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#1193 84 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Anybody know if these are Left or right: DROP TARGET NUT AND SPRING BRACKET. Trying to replace the ones on the vertical drops. Thank you.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nut & Spring Bracket plate:
( left hand )
P-7939-1

#1194 84 days ago
Quoted from MyParagon1979:

I thought it was supposed to be the outside post on the spinner?
[quoted image]

Yeah I saw that, but I chose a different location so it stands out a bit more.

#1195 83 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Nut & Spring Bracket plate:
( left hand )
P-7939-1

Yes, I ordered these form Marco's and from my research I'm supposed to order left. However, they came in backwards and didn't fit. I ended up putting them in a vice and reversing them. So, I'm not sure if Marco's has them listed wrong or I needed Right and not Left?

#1196 83 days ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Yes, I ordered these form Marco's and from my research I'm supposed to order left. However, they came in backwards and didn't fit. I ended up putting them in a vice and reversing them. So, I'm not sure if Marco's has them listed wrong or I needed Right and not Left?

Marcos has got the two sides marked has one piece.
It is bad and sucks.
0967-00112-00XF is the midway No. for the right.
Marco has it labeled left.

#1197 83 days ago

From Common parts catalog:
Bracket: Nut & Spring
0370-00136-00XF
[ part is drawn has the left bracket ]

#1198 83 days ago

inline bracket part numbers-00 (resized).jpg
Here is a copy of the brackets from a 1986 parts catalog.

#1199 83 days ago

Haha!
I never even thought to check mine….

image (resized).jpg
#1200 82 days ago

While the paint is drying on the apron (more to come on that later) I decided to give the top mounted ball kicker that is located under the apron a little attention. I cleaned and polished the assembly and added a new coil sleeve and spring. Notice what's wrong with the picture?

The correct coil is an AO 26-1200 per the manual. I have very little knowledge about coil sizing so I figured it was time to learn me some knowledge. From everything I read, 26 is the wire gauge (so its the same) and 1500 is the number of turns, higher the number weaker it is. So this replacement coil is somewhat weaker. It would matter more if this was a sling or pop bumper but for a ball kicker it works fine. So I'll probably leave it.

Some links for anyone else that wants to learn a little knowledge about coils:
https://pinballmedic.net/coilchart.html#ballycoilsubchart
https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

20220412_135534 (resized).jpg

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