Quoted from slochar:yep according to the manual, the 3 bank of drops in front of it advances it.
Thank you!!!!!
Quoted from slochar:yep according to the manual, the 3 bank of drops in front of it advances it.
Thank you!!!!!
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Repinning J3 connector to rectifier board.
No #13 yellow white wire???????
Makes sense?????
Check this Thread and Pinwiki. The manual is not ALWAYS correct and sometimes there were corrections/addendums added.
IIRC, my Skateball had that same or a similar issue. Wire in the manual that was not on the machine. Apparently it happened. Just do a little research or wait around for someone who knows to chime in.
I’m thinking about switching to LED bulbs.
Do y’all use colored bulbs for red/green inserts?
Frosted or clear plastic on the end?
Anyone use 455 on the headboard for blinkers?
Comet 2smd the way to go?
Buy a paragon kit from comet,
Or cheaper to buy individual bulbs?
Or scratch bulbs and go for yoppsicles?
Do you already have a anti-flicker board or are you going to solder resisters across all the controlled lights?
Quoted from Apex:Do you already have a anti-flicker board or are you going to solder resisters across all the controlled lights?
I was planning to buy the anti flicker board sold through comet
GI and Backbox ALWAYS get LEDs.
Comets here, but others are fine as well.
Warm if you want to retain the lower light look of the original bulbs, or Sunlight if you want a brighter overall look. Always Frosted, for me.
For controlled lamps, I usually go the Alltek board route and match colors to inserts.
Very rarely will I use (more than 1-2) Color Lamps in the GI. Too much and it looks gaudy, but in certain places it can look great. Nothing wrong with experitmenting, though.
As for Yoppsicles...depends on the condition of your Lamp Sockets.
Quoted from guitarded:GI and Backbox ALWAYS get LEDs.
Comets here, but others are fine as well.
Warm if you want to retain the lower light look of the original bulbs, or Sunlight if you want a brighter overall look. Always Frosted, for me.
For controlled lamps, I usually go the Alltek board route and match colors to inserts.
Very rarely will I use (more than 1-2) Color Lamps in the GI. Too much and it looks gaudy, but in certain places it can look great. Nothing wrong with experitmenting, though.
As for Yoppsicles...depends on the condition of your Lamp Sockets.
Your suggesting getting an alltek board instead of the anti flicker adaptor?
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Your suggesting getting an alltek board instead of the anti flicker adaptor?
No. Just saying that when I put LEDs in my Ballys, I typically drop an Alltek in there.
Of course, I didn't used to have 5-6 of them, so I wasn't board rich as I am now.
Nothing bad.
GI and Backbox GI aren't controlled, so LEDs swap in with no issues. In the control lamp circuit (PF and Switched Backbox Lamps) you will run into issues.
IF you are wnating to replace your lamps (Controlled PF) with Yoppsicles, I do not believe you would need any additional boards at all.
But I have no used those in any of my machines to date.
There are some controlled lamps back there. Shoot again for sure maybe match and tilt too. I have leds back there and it is quite the seizure strobe on the rare occasion I survive long enough to collect
I make my own LED's for about 5 cents each. No anti flicker board needed. If you can solder and have the time you can save a lot of money.
Quoted from JethroP:I make my own LED's for about 5 cents each. No anti flicker board needed. If you can solder and have the time you can save a lot of money.
Can you teach me? How?
Quoted from MyParagon1979:Can you teach me? How?
Sure. I take old burned out #44 bulbs. Break out the glass. Drill a small hole through the soldered end for the resistor wire. Make the assembly as shown in the attached instructions and solder to the old base. Finally I hot glue to hold everything firmly in place.
IMG_3085 (resized).JPGScreen Shot 2022-03-03 at 9.04.12 AM (resized).pngQuoted from JethroP:Sure. I take old burned out #44 bulbs. Break out the glass. Drill a small hole through the soldered end for the resistor wire. Make the assembly as shown in the attached instructions and solder to the old base. Finally I hot glue to hold everything firmly in place.[quoted image][quoted image]
Brilliant!!!!!!!
Quoted from MyParagon1979:These adaptor boards…
[quoted image]
I have this ( or something very similar) in my Eight Ball. It does the trick, ie no ghosting or flickering controlled lamps. On the downside, sometimes the connections get flakey and I have to open the backbox to re-seat them.
Quoted from Eightball88:I have this ( or something very similar) in my Eight Ball. It does the trick, ie no ghosting or flickering controlled lamps. On the downside, sometimes the connections get flakey and I have to open the backbox to re-seat them.
I appreciate everyone’s advice.
For now, I think I will change GI (playfield and head box) to LED and see what I think.
Probably not the best pictures. But it's the best I could mange for tonight. My lockbar doesn't lock. I pulled off the reveiving piece and painted it white a while back, the handle is there... but the strap underneath that locks the lockbar in place is gone.
20220219_151313 (resized).jpg
20220219_151400 (resized).jpg
Can anyone identify what is missing? Is this a piece I can buy or possibly make if buying isn't an easy route?
Thanks for your help. I'd like to take this Paragon to TPF but need to be able to lock the bar in place.
Quoted from nightsearcher:2smd in mine now, much better than the 1smd I used to have(both were Comet)
What color?
Quoted from MyParagon1979:What color?
Meaning warm white vs natural white vs sunlight white
Using 2smd comet cool white frosted on gi and backglass. Still using 1smd matching colours on inserts ( non frosted). Not sure if sunlight , but are the brightest 8mm domed bullet lense available at the time.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:In case anyone needs the information in the future. This is the locking piece I was missing. I am currently machining my own piece and my game will be able to lock again soon.
[quoted image]
I believe the slide bar has spring washers to add stiffening to the assembly.
Awesome job.
Quoted from JethroP:Sure. I take old burned out #44 bulbs. Break out the glass. Drill a small hole through the soldered end for the resistor wire. Make the assembly as shown in the attached instructions and solder to the old base. Finally I hot glue to hold everything firmly in place.[quoted image][quoted image]
Excellent!
Quoted from nightsearcher:Using 2smd comet cool white frosted on gi and backglass. Still using 1smd matching colours on inserts ( non frosted). Not sure if sunlight , but are the brightest 8mm domed bullet lense available at the time.
I ordered 2smd warm white for GI and back glass. Also, ordered some amber colored…!!!!! Kinda excited to try that out on the back glass.
Despite now owning a super pin….
There is nothing in the world like cranking up jimmy hendrix while playing paragon!
"I was shocked at how much I enjoyed pinning!"
I am also shocked...that you said that!
The novelty has certainly worn off for me...have one finger that makes weird cracking noises.
Thank god it's the middle one!
Just joined the club! She's not much of a looker at this point, cabinet is solid but rough cosmetically. Playfield has some wear here and there but overall isn't terrible, lots of mylar. On a positive note the Electronics look solid, has some new boards, all the connectors are repinned and it plays really well. This is going to be a fun project to work on. More pics to follow after I get her home and set up tonight.
20220312_144401 (resized).jpgQuoted from MyParagon1979:Anyone put LED strip lighting on their paragon?
I’m thinking along the top of the playfield, and maybe next to valley of demons or by the spinner.
I did, I put soft white strips along the back of the to reaer plastics. Looks great and can't see the strips. I can get u a picture in a couple days.
Quoted from bobwiley:I did, I put soft white strips along the back of the to reaer plastics. Looks great and can't see the strips. I can get u a picture in a couple days.
2,4,8 or 20 inch LED strips?
Made it back and got it all set up. I'm loving this game! Definitely seen better days but kinda adds to the charm. I got another one of those ultra rare ones with the black trim on the backbox. Going to play it for a while tonight and I'll be putting my shopping list together tomorrow: right off the bat I I'll rebuild the flippers, replace all coil sleeves, and all new rubber rings to start. An add a credit button was added to the coin slot so I'll have to change that back and order a new slot insert. I'm not a fan of the LEDs, it's not exactly clown puke, but close. I'll be switching those out tonight. Some cracked/warped plastics. I might order a new set eventually. All in all, I'm really happy with this beast!
20220312_192244 (resized).jpg20220312_192302 (resized).jpg20220312_192312 (resized).jpg20220312_192347 (resized).jpg20220312_192412 (resized).jpgQuoted from Foxxstone_80:Made it back and got it all set up. I'm loving this game! Definitely seen better days but kinda adds to the charm. I got another one of those ultra rare ones with the black trim on the backbox. Going to play it for a while tonight and I'll be putting my shopping list together tomorrow: right off the bat I I'll rebuild the flippers, replace all coil sleeves, and all new rubber rings to start. An add a credit button was added to the coin slot so I'll have to change that back and order a new slot insert. I'm not a fan of the LEDs, it's not exactly clown puke, but close. I'll be switching those out tonight. Some cracked/warped plastics. I might order a new set eventually. All in all, I'm really happy with this beast!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Congrats. Looks like it’s in decent shape. Very fun pin.
Nice. Congrats. Paragon has a subtle appeal it is hard to walk away from.
I might suggest you maybe consider adding a set of LED displays and getting the high voltage circuit out of the machine. There are some pretty nice and affordable kits available in the Marketplace and they really are a nice upgrade, imo.
Quoted from guitarded:I might suggest you maybe consider adding a set of LED displays and getting the high voltage circuit out of the machine.
Not sure why this suggestion. If your displays are bad and needing replacement, then I would consider the LED options. But if your displays are working fine (and it appears they are), then I wouldn't consider changing them for any other reason.
Quoted from JethroP:Not sure why this suggestion. If your displays are bad and needing replacement, then I would consider the LED options. But if your displays are working fine (and it appears they are), then I wouldn't consider changing them for any other reason.
Yeah I was a little puzzled by that statement also, displays are fine...no plan to change them.
Starting the LEDs conversion and realized that one of the previous owners put locktite or some other glue onto the acorn nuts on ALL posts so I can't remove the plastic pieces without removing the posts also.....thanks buddy.
Looking better. warm white in the back box and cool white in the GI. I'm thinking I might do warm white in GI too, otherwise I was thinking about ordering some retro bulbs from comet, anyone have any experience with these?
Every plastic is either crack/broken or warped...looks like I'll definitely be ordering a new set. Notice the pop bumper cap for the beasts' lair is bright white and new but the top three pop bumper caps are original and yellowed....so I'll also need three new pop bumper caps. The backglass is ok, some flaking/lifting at the bottom that was sealed. I can live with it for now .
20220313_082050 (resized).jpgWhy LED Displays?
Better performance, better look (plus color options) and less load on the machine. Any excuse I have to throw them in my Bally machines, I take.
Quoted from guitarded:Why LED Displays?
Better performance, better look (plus color options) and less load on the machine. Any excuse I have to throw them in my Bally machines, I take.
That's a fair point. For me personally since the displays are working fine, and look good (IMHO) i'll leave them be for now. I'm not sure how much money I want to put into this machine, but if I end up doing a restore I'll probably look into LED displays
Ideally there should be zero difference between plasmas and the LED's. Unless you mean something else by performance?
Gas discharge displays are sadly no longer being made.
I am hoping that in the future, glass L.E.D. segmented displays could be developed.
Quoted from guitarded:Why LED Displays?
Better performance, better look (plus color options) and less load on the machine. Any excuse I have to throw them in my Bally machines, I take.
In that case, Any chance you have a bunch of old plasma displays laying around? I'll buy them all from you. PM me
Quoted from slochar:Ideally there should be zero difference between plasmas and the LED's. Unless you mean something else by performance?
The only reason I have the XPIN displays in my Paragon, is for the addition of the 7th digit. I roll over a million points on mine occasionally and I wanted to retain that score. But I have other Bally games I'd gladly put plasmas in.
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