Quoted from Toads:What a coincidence are we brothers?
Pic of my paragon and you guessed it fireball sitting next to it that needs a bit of work
Anyone else?
Quoted from Toads:What a coincidence are we brothers?
Pic of my paragon and you guessed it fireball sitting next to it that needs a bit of work
Anyone else?
A little "teaser" image from the single owned Paragon I picked up this weekend with help. The game was purchased new by the family on June 1, 1979 (according to the invoice). Delivery cost was only $19.95.
The game has met all my expectations, and I am so excited to begin restoring the game.
The family's personal information was blurred out for privacy reasons.
https://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/cpicalc.pl?cost1=2100&year1=197901&year2=201709
A $2,100 pin in 1979 should cost $7,588 today. Seems about right for a Stern premium.
Quoted from xRose_of_Aragonx:The playfield restored with help from another collector. It's all about teamwork.
That is one gorgeous playfield!
Quoted from xRose_of_Aragonx:The playfield restored with help from another collector. It's all about teamwork.
Awesome!
In every Paragon video that I have seen the letters at the top right rotate and the letter lit when the ball catches the hole is spotted on the playfield. I am running an Altek MPU and my letters do not rotate. The letters are spotted in sequence when the ball catches the hole. Is this a game setup issue that can be adjusted with the DIP switch settings or is it the way the Altek board is programmed? I have looked at both the Paragon and Altek manuals several times and have not seen how to adjust this feature.
Thanks.
Dip # 24 off conservative.
Quoted from StratDoc:I am running an Altek MPU and my letters do not rotate. The letters are spotted in sequence when the ball catches the hole. Is this a game setup issue that can be adjusted with the DIP switch settings or is it the way the Altek board is programmed? I have looked at both the Paragon and Altek manuals several times and have not seen how to adjust this feature.
Thanks.
Roger that. thanks!
I am curious how most people folks here set the game. Do they set it conservative or for liberal play?
I set it to conservative at home. In tournament play I usually see it set to liberal though, I assume so it takes the same number of shots for every player.
Quoted from StratDoc:Roger that. thanks!
I am curious how most people folks here set the game. Do they set it conservative or for liberal play?
I have mine set to sweep the lights (conservative) but also have the valley of demons switch set to light a Paragon letter when you hit a drop target (liberal)... seems fair to me
Quoted from StratDoc:Is it normal for the F5 20 amp fuse for the GI to get extremely hot? I had another issue I was troubleshooting when I noticed that fuse was too hot to touch.
Does the fuse appear to look like a penny or an ordinary piece of copper wire? . If it hasn't blown you're pulling less than 20 amps... but the slow blow is more for peaks not ongoing. If you're constantly pulling just under 20 amps that sounds a bit much. I wouldn't expect any fuse to get really hot. You may have something drawing more than expected. I'll try to remember to check mine tonight, see how hot it is.
Quoted from srcdube:I'll try to remember to check mine tonight, see how hot it is.
The glass part of my fuse is only warm but the metal ends and connector are pretty hot... can only touch them for about 5 seconds and gets too hot to keep my finger on it. Bonus... you also get a nice zing in your finger it you happen to also touch one of the adjacent fuse ends at the same time .
The whole thing is on a large metal heat sink though so probably sufficiently dissipating the heat. Just make sure no cables are pushed up against it when you close the front panel. Everything in mine is pretty clear. Not sure about the copper coat in you fuse.. mine doesn't have it but it could just be the type of fuse if it's been replaced.
Good to know. Thanks.
I have posted elsewhere about the problem i am trouble shooting but will post here as well.
Playing the other night and suddenly lost all coils on the playfield. Voltages on transformer and regulator check out but I am getting no volts to the playfield. The solenoid buss fuse on the playfield is fine but no volts to that point on the brown wire side. Checked pin 6 at J1 on transformer since that is where the 43 volts originate for solenoid bus and it registers 43 volts. However, no continuity from the pin 6 connector to the the brown wire side of playfield fuse.
Quoted from srcdube:I have mine set to sweep the lights (conservative) but also have the valley of demons switch set to light a Paragon letter when you hit a drop target (liberal)... seems fair to me
That's a good setting because you can time the target shots to get the letters you need.
Hi folks -- I acquired a project Paragon a while ago. When I got it, the playfield it was completely stripped down. I'm getting ready to put the top side of the playfield back together, and I could really use some detailed shop out pics so I can see where all the posts and whatnot go. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Thanks trilogy! These pics are very clear and helpful. The gate placement especially.if you think of any other special cases to look out for, let me know!
Quoted from trilogybeer:Topside pics
That solid red post you have behind the mini flipper should be on the LHS of the spinner.
It's the designers signature post.
Quoted from vec-tor:Double your D/T ring and Mini Flipper.
Sorry, what does this mean?
Quoted from Spraynard:Sorry, what does this mean?
The mini flipper usually has two rubber rings stacked on top of each other , I don't know what D/T is though .
Quoted from Toads:That solid red post you have behind the mini flipper should be on the LHS of the spinner.
It's the designers signature post.
I knew it was the designers signature . I had 3 paragons at the same time , 2 had the solid red post where that one is located in the picture , one had it where you said . I figured the 2 were right and the one was wrong , I guess it was the other way around . Thanks for the info.
AH ! D/T most likely means Drop Targets ? I haven't seen those double ringed in most I've Paragons I've come across , but maybe it should be , not sure .
I'm in the market for a Paragon if anyone is looking to sell or knows of someone who is! Preferably within 4-6 hrs. Thanks!
Anyone tried a playfield protector for Paragon? What did you think?
I am almost forced to get one due to insert cupping everywhere.
I've heard the sound is weird at first because you can't hear the ball on the wood, but if it plays better I don't really care about that.
Paragon was one of my three favorite pins growing up; Paragon, Black Hole and Haunted House. I just picked up this project a couple of weeks ago and I am looking forward to this being my first restore. It didn’t have an mpu, solenoid driver board, and 90% of the paint fell off the backglass but the playfield and cabinet are in really nice shape.
C3D1CB71-AB7F-44E3-AC20-5C222D385474 (resized).jpeg
CCFA4431-432B-44EF-B7D6-97B046E09A9C (resized).jpeg
5A4746F0-D52E-4077-B47A-B7654E4284E8 (resized).jpeg
4E0F35EA-6636-49B5-B32A-CF3D9D200E5F (resized).jpeg
Going to look at one on Saturday, probably going to be joining the club this weekend! Also signed up for the CPR playfield. This will also be my first "restore." Can't wait!!!
Help on some lamp issues please!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/paragon-controlled-lamps-only-some-dont-work#post-4209916
I was disconnecting the J1 connector on my lamp board the other day and the connector housing broke! No worries, I was repinning it anyway, however I couldn’t tell which pin this wire goes to. It’s either pin 3 or 4. Tealish wire with fat white horizontal stripe. Any help would be much appreciated!
Quoted from Spraynard:I was disconnecting the J1 connector on my lamp board the other day and the connector housing broke! No worries, I was repinning it anyway, however I couldn’t tell which pin this wire goes to. It’s either pin 3 or 4. Tealish wire with fat white horizontal stripe. Any help would be much appreciated!
Schematic says that should be pin 3, as pin 4 is not used.
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:Schematic says that should be pin 3, as pin 4 is not used.
thank you!!!
Anyone have any issues with the siegcraft LED adapters? After installing per instructions, i still have several lamps flickering. After messing around for over an hour, the bonus inserts now barely light. Any thoughts?
Quoted from FatPanda:Anyone have any issues with the siegcraft LED adapters? After installing per instructions, i still have several lamps flickering. After messing around for over an hour, the bonus inserts now barely light. Any thoughts?
Same here
Quoted from embryonjohn:Same here
Quoted from FatPanda:Help on some lamp issues please!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/paragon-controlled-lamps-only-some-dont-work#post-4209916
Check out my link. The likely problem is covered on the second page.
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:Legs all the way in up front, all the way out in back.
That’s how I’m set up as well. With stock Bally legs and levelers it gets me about a 5.5 degree incline. I’d suspect 6+ degrees is a bit much for many early SS tables.
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