I would like to know what color of blue was used by someone who repainted there
Bikini Machine!
When I removed my side rail the orig blue was under it!
But, after a lot of trips the paint stores, I have yet to get
the shade I would like.
Terry K

Now that is a Bikini would like to ------- paint some time!!!!!

"Mitch" I have lots of "before" pics, the "after" will take a bit of time.
I do have all the mask's; from Coos.
Terry K
p.s. I would like to see an "after" pic of Magic_Mike's post !!!!!

Correction on my last post.
p.s. I would like to see the "BEFORE" ,the bikini, post of "Magic_Mike"

Here are some "before" pics.
Not sure of the artist!
Not sure it was an artist!
The front button surrounds are still to be painted as well!
And, my new, partially finished lock down.
Denis D., I used the # 4 X 1/2 drive screws!!
And, as always, the beer fridge in the back, eh!!
TTFN

SIDE (resized).JPG

HEAD (resized).JPG

FRONT (resized).JPG

LOCK DOWN (resized).JPG

Thanks Steve. That is a big help in my color decisions!!!
Terry K
p.s. what was the color of blue you decided to go with?
I am looking at Bonar Blue/10BG 54/199 (Dulux)

Thanks for the input guys.
You are absolutely right about over thinking!!!
I'll go with my best guess.
Stay tuned for some in the middle and after shots.

Phil, on an earlier discussion on overthinking, check this tool out!!!
It is actually used to measure the tension in/on the switch blades!!

a special tool (resized).JPG

There is/was a guy who had a complete set of relay maintenance tools.
He is a friend of a friend of mine.
He was wondering what to do with them, as he had not used them in 30 years or more.
I sent him a picture of the inside of my Bikini machine, he then decided , if any one
could user the "tools", I could!!!
Here is a picture of the rest of the tools.

The rest of the tools (resized).JPG

Nick, I am not sure what that tool is for.
But, if I figure out what it's for, I'll take a picture of myself using it!!!!

While I am getting my machine ready for paint, I noticed that the "new" rubber kit I
bought is not really that good.
My plunger tip is practically wore out!
My rebound rubber seems to have lost most of it's rebound!
Are there "good, better, best" rubber kits out there or are we stuck with the same
sub-par kits???

Painting has started.
One primer coat and two blue coats.
I think I will start with the front door mask's.
1st white
2nd sand
3rd green
BTW Nick, I found out what the " alligator" tool is for!!!

Bikini primed (resized).JPG

Two coats (resized).JPG

Tool usage eh (resized).JPG

Dennis, you are right on about the button bezels.
But, my coin return plate, was held on with nails!
BTW, did you notice my post about rubber kits.
I am not impressed with the set got recently,
in particular the plunger tip and the big round rebound!

Nick,I don't know about willpower, but, I do have a wife and not much room!!!!!

I've seen the Bikini pics from Phil's site.
And thanks WIZ for the input.
I was going with the Bonar Blue, but, I think I would like a
blue with some green in it, more like Phil's picture.
I know it's coming down to picking a color, but, it's hard when you see all
of these perfectly painted machines!!!

Well I finally decided on my blue base color.
Behr, Tropical Tide(520D 5), satin finish!
The orange/sand color is Sherwin-Williams Harvest Gold(SW 2858)
The green will be easy to pick!
Here are a few shots so far in my process.

Bikini new Blue (resized).JPG

Bikini front white 1 (resized).JPG

Bikini front two mask's (resized).JPG

Bikini head white only (resized).JPG

Bikini head two mask's (resized).JPG

"WIZ", thanx for the pictures.
Would you have a shot of the front door?

Thanks Steve

Putting things back together.
Can any one tell me what and if this Coin coil thing is necessary.
I un-soldered the wires to get at things.
No prob re-soldering, just wondering if necessary!

coin coil (resized).JPG

Thanks Nick.
Just what I wanted to know.
I will re-sloder the wires.

Well, it's going back together.
Two cranky issues have cropped up!
First, some times I have to hold down the "R" button to get my
replays, some times 5 to 10 seconds. When "normal", a press on the button
is all that's necessary. It is not consistent on what line or color, three in line!!
I cleaned and burnished the "R" button contacts.
Would the issue be in/on the search disc??
Second, every 5 to 10 games the odds will jump up from 4 to 6,all colors!
It will usually happen after the first ball.
I tried to correlate this with the ball lifter or shutter motor, but, it is more random than
that!!
Here is a pic so far

Back together (resized).JPG

When the replays are working properly, the search disc appears
to stop on a winning combo(3 in line in my case) and the replays are
registered.
When the replay(s) are NOT working properly I press the "R" button and the disc turns
one complete revolution then stops.
If press the "R" button once again, the search disc rotates one revolution again and one game registers;
pressing the "R" button again, the disc again rotates one rev. again and one more game registers!
In this case the disc does not seem to stop on the winning combo, so I'm not sure where the
winning info is collected!
I have not found the "R" button on the schematic; but it seems to me that it
energizes the relay that stops, or allows the search disc to rotate.
On a Magic screen game, eg. yellow super section, when working properly,
the disc again stops on a apparent winner and the games are registered, with one press of
the "R" button.

I know where you are coming from "bingoben". I followed Richard Gerlitz's
video on the search wiper adjustment with both the search index coil and the
index coil under the search disc. All is right on.
It appears that when the search disc reads a win, it some how tells the search index coil
to engage, stopping the search disc until the payout is complete.
The set of contacts that are activated by the pin on the top of the search disc,
I cleaned and burnished them also!!
"Muggle" all of my search wipers are clean and seem to have appropriate tension!

By the "search index switches", do you mean the set of contacts at the top of the search disc?
The arms to the search disc are/have good tension, and,are in the right slot(s).
Groves appear clean, but, will get a good spanking!!

Thanks "Muggle". His (Richard Gerlitz) videos are amazing!
Pretty well all aspects are covered, including the Search Index adjustments.
There are three sets of wipers on the SD. the last wiper on each set follows the
other wipers; all are on the/a rivet when the disc is locked in place.
I have not checked every position of the wipers as the index coil stops the SD; but,
from the ones I've checked , all wipers,that I can see, are on rivets.
My last adjustment, to look at, is if the Search Index Coil is going deep enough to stop the SD every time
a score is detected!
BTW, has any one attempted to modify a motorcycle lift, to lift a bingo machine???

Thanks "Twit". I will certainly look around the Index coil enable circuit(s).
You are right on about one credit per "R" button press; not all the time though.
BTW look what got.
$199 CAD, that's like $1.50 US!!!

My pin lift (resized).jpg

I will be distributing the weight more evenly with a bit larger plywood base over the
top.I only need 24" to just catch the corner/edge plywood of the box; nearer the head for balance.
My basement family room has a very low ceiling height plus a carpet. This unit will lift the
pin about 6 " off the floor;any more and I hit the ceiling, just about right.
The pin would hit the ceiling before it would ever tip over.
I do not see myself using this other than to get at the machine for service.

Well, I thought I would be cute and clean up the contacts around the search Index Coil,
now I have no replays at all, I guess I should have left well enough alone!
I believe that the Search Disc can, when working properly, pick up a winner(3 in line etc.)
and you can get replays, with out the Search Index coil activating!
It that case I had to press the "R" button 4 times for 4 replays.
Now nothing!
Information from the SD must go two places.
One to register replays and one to activate the Search Index coil.

I set up a basic 3 in line 9,1 & 2 for ex.
When I press the "R" button and/or release the SD manually
all the search relays chatter, the sequence unit pulses but does not step.
The Search Index coil does not even try to energize
I have eliminated the 15 ohm resistor as a problem.
Since I am not sure of the sequence of events I am not sure of the path
for the 50V to get to/from the Index Coil.
I see now that the Search Index coil, among other things, activates the
Replay Cams index coil. It then appears that nothing will register with out the
Replay Cams index coil!
Keeping in mind that all I did(with these games any miss movement(s) is or can be disastrous)
was clean and burnish Replay Cam 18D, Select before 4th ball contact R2, CU switch 15B.
Also I shorted out the 15 ohm resistor just to eliminate it!

Well, Mr "twit" is the man again!!!!
Looking for my 50V to energize my search index coil I found a bad contact on
CU cam switch 15B. It is a , as we used to call it, form "C" set.
I had 50V on the one side and nothing on the common, cleaned it up
and Bob's your uncle, away we go.
I like the setting up of the Search Disc manually when you set up a "in line
score" to be paid out. It's like running everything in slow motion and watching
things happen!!!
Can't thank "twit" enough, as well as everyone else.

Here you go "twit".
Along with the pictures ,the "hanging" contact set, will stay closed when
the reset plunger is starting to engage and stay that way until the reset has locked,
at witch time the "hanging" contact set opens like in the picture.
NOTE - just, BEFORE, the reset locks, the wipers revert to reset position and the
"hanging " contact set is still CLOSED

Seq unit in reset (resized).JPG

Hanging contacts at reset (resized).JPG

Hanging contact at any step (resized).JPG

Clear as mud.
When the reset plunger is pressed in all the way the SQ. unit resets and the contact is open-like the first two
pictures. Any further movement of the plunger, after releasing it by hand, does not change the state of the contact!
The only time the contact is closed is when the the SQ unit is in ANY step.
Just for timing, I mentioned the fact of the short time JUST BEFORE the SQ locks (1CM or so) the
contacts are closed, but do open when locked.

Well, here she be.
I haven't got the side rails polished yet so they are not on.
I don't mind the look with out them.
I still have a few minor issues with the machine, internally,
like shutting the back door causing a problem, but I just wanted
to get the machine in position and start playing it.
Thanks to every one and don't go to far, just in case!!!
If any one is interested
The blue is = Behr Tropical Tide 520D - 5
The green is = CIL Emerald Leaf 70 GY
The sand is = SW Harvest Gold 2858
Terry K

Almost done 1 (resized).JPG

Almost done 2 (resized).JPG

Almost done 3 (resized).JPG

Thanks guys.
Dennis, you don't know where a fellow could get a NOS Bikini flyer
I have to give the credit to my wife for the painting; and of course the
masks from Coos!!!

"okorange" the CIL is CIL, I don't know it by any other name. It can be found easy on line.
Wall Mart(US) sell the Emerald Leaf under the above mentioned paint #, not sure of
manufacture and color match to CIL!
The SW is Sherwin Williams.
I, my wife, used a roller to apply all the colors, and then, an artist brush to clean up
some leaking
"dasvis" the masks from Coos are fantastic! The best, for me, is to water down the "area"(quite a bit)
with a combo of water and a pinch of dish soap.
Then you can slide around the mask(s) to get the proper position!
Steve, the mask(s) patterns are already stamped; you just pick then out!
In fact, it may be a good idea to "masking tape" the patterns so the stay in place a little longer!

"KYBingo", I wanted a blue color that could represent both water and sky.
After communicating with many people (thank you to them) I decided on the
Tropical Blue, and yes, it is all the same color!!!
It comes close to the blue of MY backglass blue; having said that, it was NOT my
intention to match my backglass blue.
The reason I say this is because MY backglass colors are off; talking to a few people
it appears MY back glass my have been a second, sort of speak!!
This is getting to be a long long post, must have caught this from "twit"
The stencils, masks, came from Coos Hakvoort.
He has a web site and you can see exactly how they work, all though, I noticed
on his site that the masks are not available.
I got mine about 2 months ago.
I try not to stay on his site to long, I do not want to talk myself into a new backglass.
50/50 if I am listening!!!!
Terry K