Bikini
Bally, 1961I would like to know what color of blue was used by someone who repainted there
Bikini Machine!
When I removed my side rail the orig blue was under it!
But, after a lot of trips the paint stores, I have yet to get
the shade I would like.
Terry K
Quoted from okorange:A Pantone formula guide is your friend. Find the correct match and bring it to the paint store, they can mix it from the swatch.
Those guides are like $160 .
https://www.pantone.com/formula-guide
It's free to roll the empty cab or head on a dolly into your local Ace, and let them scan all your colors.
Have Ace mix them up in Semi-gloss latex and you are good to go in 10 minutes.
Get a quart of the most expensive paint they have for each color. Cheaper paints won't cover well, and if you have to lay down 3 coats, it will be so thick, you will see the edge.
Quoted from Magic_Mike:What type of bikini painting are we talking about?
Now that is a Bikini would like to ------- paint some time!!!!!
The guides are always available cheaper on eBay or some other second hand marketplace. Also, If you know any printers they usually have them laying around unused. To me it's indispensable as I occasionally do digital fixes of backglasses as well.
Benjamin Moore will custom mix just a quart.
Just get close man ... eveyone will love it even if you're a shade or hue off.
Quoted from Magic_Mike:What type of bikini painting are we talking about?
Looks like there is a big rip in the crotch of her shorts.
Here are some "before" pics.
Not sure of the artist!
Not sure it was an artist!
The front button surrounds are still to be painted as well!
And, my new, partially finished lock down.
Denis D., I used the # 4 X 1/2 drive screws!!
And, as always, the beer fridge in the back, eh!!
TTFN
Terry sorry for the delay replying to your pm.
Use satin finish latex wall paint for the base coat and either have it custom mixed or pick a close Sky Blue.
Using a smooth roller to apply it is what I recommend after trying it on a couple of subsequent restorations (surface imperfections become a non-issue due to the light texture left behind) ... or shoot it if you like.
Rattle cans should be satin finish too.
Shown are the cans I used back then for the green and tan and bronze. All were near perfect matches.
BE CAREFUL APPLYING ANYTHING OVER A FRESH RATTLE CAN COAT !!!
Read The Can - follow their instructions to the letter or you'll have crinkling followed by lots of bad words.
don't recall the name - just a quart of satin finish latex wall paint in a Sky Blue that matched up pretty close from a few swatches I took home.
You could be over thinking this man.
Agree with Steve. I repainted a Bikini last year and many many other machines. You will never get a perfect match and even if you do know one will know. It's a helluva big job to do it right. This is coming from a guy who tends to overthink everything. I used to worry about how deep the finger inserts in my bowling balls were, you can't get much worse than that.
Wow, where'd you get that?? Reduction of tension with age can cause problems at times. I usually do a visual inspection and make sure the screws are tightened down. The gapping on the bingo switches isn't generally as difficult as some of the flipper games, at least in my experience.
Quoted from okorange:The gapping on the bingo switches isn't generally as difficult as some of the flipper games, at least in my experience.
That's correct. Gottlieb in particular required almost that level of precision. Williams/Bally/Exhibit/United were more lenient (and I think it makes them a lot easier to work on)! Part of that is the length and width of the switch blades used.
There is/was a guy who had a complete set of relay maintenance tools.
He is a friend of a friend of mine.
He was wondering what to do with them, as he had not used them in 30 years or more.
I sent him a picture of the inside of my Bikini machine, he then decided , if any one
could user the "tools", I could!!!
Here is a picture of the rest of the tools.
While I am getting my machine ready for paint, I noticed that the "new" rubber kit I
bought is not really that good.
My plunger tip is practically wore out!
My rebound rubber seems to have lost most of it's rebound!
Are there "good, better, best" rubber kits out there or are we stuck with the same
sub-par kits???
Should we be worried that your next thread discussing the restoration of this game will be titled "Waxing my Bikini?"
J/K
But seriously nice job on the restoration progress!
Terry -
Were you able to get the button rings off the front of the cabinet without damaging the rings or destroying the nails that hold the rings in place? I find that it's murder to get those twist nails to come out cleanly. I recently needed some nails and wound up destroying the plate they were holding while extracting the nails. (It was a parts game, but it still didn't feel good to ruin the plate.) If you've got a technique, I'd love to hear it.
Quoted from BlackCatBone:Terry -
Were you able to get the button rings off the front of the cabinet without damaging the rings or destroying the nails that hold the rings in place? I find that it's murder to get those twist nails to come out cleanly. I recently needed some nails and wound up destroying the plate they were holding while extracting the nails. (It was a parts game, but it still didn't feel good to ruin the plate.) If you've got a technique, I'd love to hear it.
If you are talking about the white, red, yellow and blue button rings, they are held on with a threaded screw with a nut on the back side of the door. Not nails like the front rail buttons.
Dennis, you are right on about the button bezels.
But, my coin return plate, was held on with nails!
BTW, did you notice my post about rubber kits.
I am not impressed with the set got recently,
in particular the plunger tip and the big round rebound!
I don't know how many of those kits are put together by bingo folks, and they may just be old.
Making a kit isn't too tough for a bingo pinball, thankfully.
I would suggest buying in bulk 5/16" rubber rings for your yellow posts.
Red posts shipped with 'dead' rubber. Closest modern approximation is http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-0516H
I've also used black rubber as suggested by my firend Steve.
Rebound rubber depends on the game, but for Bikini should use the white (smaller) rubber - http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-115-4
And then the larger rings are 1".
Shooter tip, you can either use a tan one or a white one. I prefer tan.
Some of those items can be purchased from the Pinball Resource, or you can purchase them all at Marco Specialties.
Thankfully, almost all bingo pinballs (especially those made by Bally) use these rings, so if you buy a bag of 100 5/16" rubbers for when you inevitably get your 14th game, you'll have plenty of rubber. 
And yep, all the coin return plates are held on with twist nails. Easy to bend them and new ones are not available.
Quoted from Terry1:Dennis, you are right on about the button bezels.
But, my coin return plate, was held on with nails!
BTW, did you notice my post about rubber kits.
I am not impressed with the set got recently,
in particular the plunger tip and the big round rebound!
I agree with Nick. Except for the part about the 14th game. I think he might be a little conservative there.
Quoted from bingopodcast:That's what I said back when I got my first bingo too!
Ditto. When we decided to move from our first home, I went straight to the basements of every home we looked at. THAT was the priority with me. 
Quoted from DennisDodel:Ditto. When we decided to move from our first home, I went straight to the basements of every home we looked at. THAT was the priority with me.
And are you still sleeping in the basement ?????? 
How many Bingos do you have now ???
Ha!
I have been blessed with a wonderful, understanding wife.
43 right now. 37 in my permanent collection. Nick has three times that!
There are only a few more that I am looking for.
I think Bingo Butch has the most complete bingo collection. At least in the U.S. Maybe the world.
Quoted from DennisDodel:Nick has three times that!
Most of mine take up less space.
Quoted from WIZ:Some color comparison pics from 2 I have
I've always liked this re-paint from Phil's site. Whoever did this restore did an amazing job! There are two other photos of this game on the site. Good luck!
https://bingo.cdyn.com/machines/bally/bikini/resources/cab-bikini-1.jpg
I've seen the Bikini pics from Phil's site.
And thanks WIZ for the input.
I was going with the Bonar Blue, but, I think I would like a
blue with some green in it, more like Phil's picture.
I know it's coming down to picking a color, but, it's hard when you see all
of these perfectly painted machines!!!
That was Hugh Kown from down in Georgia. http://oldbinger.com/
Well I finally decided on my blue base color.
Behr, Tropical Tide(520D 5), satin finish!
The orange/sand color is Sherwin-Williams Harvest Gold(SW 2858)
The green will be easy to pick!
Here are a few shots so far in my process.
Bikini front white 1 (resized).JPG
Bikini front two mask's (resized).JPG
Quoted from Terry1:Well I finally decided on my blue base color.
Behr, Tropical Tide(520D 5), satin finish!
The orange/sand color is Sherwin-Williams Harvest Gold(SW 2858)
The green will be easy to pick!
Here are a few shots so far in my process.
Nice job!
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Moncton, NB
Sana'a
Denver, CO
