(Topic ID: 29625)

Paint touch ups coming up with waxing....

By HeyNow

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by pinster68
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 11 years ago

I've been surprisingly happy with some paint touch ups I've had to do on my Joker Poker, but when I went to wax the playfield some of the paint touch ups came off in varying degrees when I was buffing out the wax. The paint had been down from 3-7 days. Do I need to wait longer or what is a work around? When I did the same thing on my other pin there was no issue, not sure why I had one this time.

#2 11 years ago

There must be some agent in your "wax" that is acting like paint thinner. You will need to cover your touchups with mylar or clearcoat the playfield.

Have you tried just using novus 2 as your "wax"? It will give you a great shine and doesn't take up as much paint.

#3 11 years ago

what kind of paint were you using for the touchups?

#4 11 years ago

The wax I'm using is Turtle Wax Carnuaba Wax. I did the same procedure on my Space Mission and no problems. hmmm.. So the Novus 2 will give the playfield some protection the same as wax? Or are you saying put the Novus 2 on top of the touch ups and then wax over that? \
Thanks.

I was using various brands of acrylic paints for the touchups.

#5 11 years ago

If you used acrylic paints you need to clearcoat it before you can do anything with it

#6 11 years ago

How did you clean it before putting the paint down? But if you just put some paint on the PF without putting either Mylar or clear over it, I don't understand how you think it won't come off when you wax the PF

#7 11 years ago

Novus 2 is a polish, not a replacement for wax.

Always put on a few coats of clear after doing touchups.

Paint takes up to a month to fully cure so I would never apply wax (ore even play the game) until at least a month after doing the touchups. There is no work around for time.

Have no idea what's in Turtle Wax, but I would spend the money and buy a good quality wax.

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from Nibbles:

How did you clean it before putting the paint down? But if you just put some paint on the PF without putting either Mylar or clear over it, I don't understand how you think it won't come off when you wax the PF

With a magic eraser and alcohol. I thought it would work like I said before because I had zero problems doing the same thing before.

So can I spot clear coat just where the touch ups are? The playfield isn't stripped down.

#9 11 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Novus 2 is a polish, not a replacement for wax.

+1 Also make sure the wax you use after Novus is not a "cleaner" wax.

Looking at another angle, how was the surface prepared before you touched up the paint? It may also be that there was something under the touchup paint that prevented the paint from bonding. Even old wax under the paint could cause this.

#10 11 years ago

Good point, but the playfield was very "dry" when I got it and I cleaned it pretty good with the magic eraser. I'm pretty sure nothing was between the wood/paint and the touch ups.

#11 11 years ago
Quoted from HeyNow:

With a magic eraser and alcohol. I thought it would work like I said before because I had zero problems doing the same thing before.
So can I spot clear coat just where the touch ups are? The playfield isn't stripped down.

Curious on this as well. would like to know what others are spot clearing with. Can it be cleared with hard as nails if a small touch up area?

#12 11 years ago

There are numerous variables that affect curing time: How many coats you put down, how thick the coats are, how long you wait between coats, humidity, temperature, etc. So yes, from one time to another you can get different results.

In any case 3-7 days is not long enough for a good cure. The minimum I ever do is 2 weeks before waxing, cleaning or playing and longer is definitely better, and safer.

If you go to a good paint store they will tell you the cure time for acrylic/enamel paint is 3-4 weeks.

Although I generally use an orbital buffer I would never use a mechanical buffer for the first waxing after painting. Not saying you did, just being clear on this point because I've seen it done.

As mentioned previously surface prep is also very important. I see a lot of people clean bare wood, which will soak up the cleaner like a sponge, and then not give the wood enough time to dry before painting.

While you should put down a clear coat, the same thing will happen with it if not cured long enough. The only difference is you probably won't notice it.

#13 11 years ago

I've done touch-ups with Acrylics, but opted to use mylar over the top so I could always redo it to make it perfect, as I'm still learning.

If it's a dead-match perfect I'm planning to do spot clear with an airbrush. Then buff when it cures.

Alternately I've done enamel paints on solid areas with less detail. These dry pretty durable it seems, but again I'd opt for spot clearing.

#14 11 years ago

Always protect touchups using mylar or clearcoat (I use clearcoat from Tamiya)..

#15 11 years ago

Can anyone comment on spot clearing with an airbrush? I haven't done it but have all the gear ready to go. I have a test playfield that I was planning to try it out, but would like to know of other's experience.

Thx,

Brian

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