(Topic ID: 181697)

Paint Bleed on 3rd Varathane coat - WTF?


By Dono

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by quinntopia
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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    Purple_Color_Settling (resized).jpg
    12165759_10208490363240736_558100410_n (resized).jpg
    3ccbf8167565954eba30ba2acd25eacf6befa3e9 (resized).jpg
    gulfstream_PF (resized).jpg

    #1 2 years ago

    So I'm just about done with clearing this Gulfstream, one light coat - dry, repeat with 2 medium coats... these 2 medium coats were allowed to dry for a week... sanded... then put down a heavy 4th coat with the plan that this would be it... NOT... why would my createx touchups executed prior to clearcoating, basically bleed and change colors on the 4th and final coat? I've been touching PFs up for a long time and never seen this before... looks like i'm going to have to mask and paint the purple section... geez... disappointing.

    I know Cliffy's had this issue with his JJ restore, any other horror stories you can share or hypotheses on why this could happen ??

    gulfstream_PF (resized).jpg

    #2 2 years ago

    Bro, sorry that no one has a clue .
    It sucks! Let's look at possibilities though .
    Createx is heat cured , maybe it wasn't fully cured and once a wet coat of clear was put down the solvent penetrated through and discolored it.
    Maybe it blushed and is better now that it's dry?
    Hopefully others will be cautioned with this paint and wet coats of varnish .
    Me?, I use automotive base Coat clearcoat, it has its quirks too , but predictable .
    Hope it's gotten better since it dried , if not maybe a hair dryer and heat the area to force any moisture out .
    Might be the culprit .
    JP

    #3 2 years ago

    I'll tell you man that's why I love using Minwax polycrylic water based clear (non yellowing) its as forgiving as it gets with acrylic and even enamel paints! Never had a blotch yet and you get about double the mills so you don't have to do 10 coats more like 4. But that totally sucks man.

    #4 2 years ago
    Quoted from gmkalos:

    Minwax polycrylic water based clear

    I bought one spray can of the minwax water based stuff ( Maybe you are using the brush stuff) and I could not get it to lay on a smooth coat.
    Before you tell me I do not know how to spray, I have been using rattle cans, Syphon feed auto sprayers, air brushes and LPHV guns for years.

    I have also done several playfields with spray can Varethane and have never had that happen. Definately a bummer.
    As OP said, maybe it will ill dry out to the correct color.

    #5 2 years ago

    I use a household paint sprayer it has a much wider tip and its all about the block sanding anyways dude, each coat I sand from 600-2000 grit, it lays down so many mills like 3-4 per 2 passes there's plenty of material to sand off.

    #6 2 years ago

    When I use lacquer its out of the rattle can automotive grade, but to get the coverage its so tedious like 10 coats and so much sanding it's really not worth it to me. And the polycrylic In my opinion is much more resilient anyways.

    #7 2 years ago

    I will absolutely agree that the minwax stuff is tough. I used what I had left on a gun stock for a rifle game restoration. Did not spray out glass smooth but it is as tough as nails.

    It sounds much quicker than Varethane if you use the sprayer.

    #8 2 years ago

    The only negative is sometimes you will get air bubbles, but if you put the pf on a 2 degree tilt while spraying they will all slide down under the apron, and they sand out pretty easily because there outties not dimples lol. But the difference is quite noticeable, here's a pic of a pf I did on it's final coat before I sanded them out.

    3ccbf8167565954eba30ba2acd25eacf6befa3e9 (resized).jpg

    #9 2 years ago

    Here's a German reprinted pf I did after 10 coats of lacquer not nearly as impressive, and so much more work. And I was cringing the whole time worrying about the ink they used. Polycrylic works with Testors enamel paints which is an absolute score, cause you don't see those pesky acrylic brush strokes!

    12165759_10208490363240736_558100410_n (resized).jpg

    #10 2 years ago

    Well, it's gonna be ok I think... the paint bleed/color change has basically reversed itself, and is about 75% back to normal.... will wait a few more days to apply the final topcoat. Fingers crossed that the remaining 25% bleed blends back in to its original color prior to applying the final coat. Thanks everyone who posted back - in retrospect the comments helped me to make the decision to wait a few days before making radical adjustments to the issue (like repainting the entire purple area)... that woulda sucked!!!

    #11 2 years ago

    Gawd man you lucked out...and who said there couldn't be luck in pinball lol!

    #12 2 years ago

    Thats excellent news.
    I hope it comes back 100%

    2 weeks later
    #13 2 years ago
    Quoted from Dono:

    Well, it's gonna be ok I think... the paint bleed/color change has basically reversed itself, and is about 75% back to normal.... will wait a few more days to apply the final topcoat. Fingers crossed that the remaining 25% bleed blends back in to its original color prior to applying the final coat. Thanks everyone who posted back - in retrospect the comments helped me to make the decision to wait a few days before making radical adjustments to the issue (like repainting the entire purple area)... that woulda sucked!!!

    Great info if you're using createx colors for playfield touchups, from the Createx TECH TEAM (below) - in a nutshell I'll be sticking with Createx because they're so much better than other acrylics I've tried, but will start using the WICKED colors as opposed to AIRBRUSH colors...

    BTW, here's an updated pic of the problematic bleed-through now that the purple is cured... definitely dodged a bullet! Now on to final topcoat and buff!

    ...

    Hello Don

    Thank you for contacting Createx Colors. Please excuse our delayed reply.

    Which of our paint brands were you using? Createx Airbrush Colors can work, but they’ll take much longer to cure compared to our Wicked Colors and Auto Air Colors. Createx Airbrush Colors can be top-coated with a catalyzed & non-catalyzed polyurethane clear. The only issue which could have created that bleed through is that the paint was not yet cured.

    Purple_Color_Settling (resized).jpg

    3 months later
    #14 1 year ago

    Good post. I'm in the midst of having some pretty horrendous reactions of Createx to Spraymax 1k (wrinkling) and it appears that I did not allow enough time for the Createx to cure. What struck me is that where I used Wicked Colors vs Createx I had much better result s.

    2 months later
    #15 1 year ago
    Quoted from quinntopia:

    Good post. I'm in the midst of having some pretty horrendous reactions of Createx to Spraymax 1k (wrinkling) and it appears that I did not allow enough time for the Createx to cure. What struck me is that where I used Wicked Colors vs Createx I had much better result s.

    I believe this linked to the clear and not because of the paint... For all I have read, 1K is definitely not a convenient solution for pf. Please have a deep look on VID's thread for pf restorations...

    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from Leveeger:

    I believe this linked to the clear and not because of the paint... For all I have read, 1K is definitely not a convenient solution for pf. Please have a deep look on VID's thread for pf restorations...

    I discovered the issue is that Createx (but any acrylic) can't be "sandwiched" between a bottom AND a top coat of Spraymax 1k. The top coat of clear seams to interact with the bottom coat causing some contraction of the bottom layer which then causes the wrinkling.

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