Picked up a gorgeous, but probably non-working Paddock this weekend. It's missing all 4 fuses next to the transformer. The manual says to use the fuses specified on the fuse block...apparently the tag listing them is gone. Any one have any idea on what rating fuses to use?

Thanks!

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THANK YOU!

I'm rather new at this, and had gone over the schematic 3 times...and couldn't find it. Any idea the location of the 15A fuse on the fuse block? I'm "guessing" the top as the wire color there is the same as the wires soldered to the 24V terminal of the transformer...guess I can just voltage test the whole fuse block to figure it out.

Gonaa go with a second question while I'm at it. So when I got this I was told that when plugged in, it lights up (haven't plugged it in yet due to fuses and needing to replace the cord with a properly grounded cord). So in the back off the machine there's a coil/plunger that hits a bar for sound. The coil is COMPLETELY fried, to the point I can't read ANY of the labeling on it. Someone removed the coil and attached the tow wires connected to it, together. So two questions;

What is the possibility that the cause of the fuse blowing is these two wires being attached together?
And, based on the pic below (see red arrow, bottom left, pointing to the fried relay[this is NOT a picture of my actual machine]), anyway of telling what coil I need to replace it?

Thanks SO much. I really appreciate it.

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Cool! C2-26-800 is also what I came up with. THANK YOU for verifying connecting the two coil wire together would blow the fuse...I kinda figured such (haven't worked on one of these for *gulp* 35+ years).

I'm slowly kind of starting to understand the schematic...I think / hope.

So, next problem. The machine does turn on (yippie), kind of even plays, kind of. Currently however it appears there are 3 coils constantly energized. The Match Unit, the One Point Relay and the 100 Point Relay.

Based on the schematic, if in fact I'm figuring it out, the Match Unit coil is powered through the One Point Relay (E 15), which is powered by the #1, #3, #4 & #5, Bumpers, the Kicker Switch, the Stand Up switch, and the 1-PT D.U. EOS Switch (C 15/16). Would I 'probably' be correct that there's a set of contacts on one of these relays that's either "welded" closed, or out of adjustment and staying closed, causing this? (the 1-PT D.U. EOS Switch has me a bit confused. , it looks like the circuit would go through it AND the One Point Relay, to power the One Point Relay coil).

any ideas?

Nope, 1 3 4 & 5 are all normally open.

I was thinking, the Chime Coil, which burned out, is energized by the 100 Point Relay, which is ALSO constantly powered and closed (kind of explains why the Chime Coil burned up). Is there anything that powers BOTH the One Point and 100 Point relay coil?

Hey HEY! Making progress here. (seriously, THANK YOU so much).

The 100 Point Relay was being constantly powered by a maladjusted Stand Up target.

For the One Point Relay, and checking the stand-up and kicker switches, I had to remove all the rubbers (couldn't really see in there to check the contacts). Once they were all removed, the One Point Relay coil was no longer powered. Ok, got it narrowed down a bit. Put the rubbers on one at a time to see which one would power the One Point Relay coil. Got down to the last one, still didn't power the coil. Guess perhaps one just wasn't on correctly.

TWO PROBLEMS SOLVED (you ROCK! Thank you).

Found a couple other coils being constantly powered, but for the moment, I'm going to just tackle them later on.

Another question on another note however...the pop bumpers are weaker than near-beer (the kick bumpers are weak as well), any ideas on making them more powerful?

Again, THANK YOU

Thank you Ken. That's also what I figured it to be. Do you have this machine?

*sigh* Two more constantly energized relays. The Lock Relay (F4) and the Ball Index Relay (F11)

Looks like there's 6 relays controlling the Lock Relay. I'm certain the problem is not with the Left Flipper switch, coin relay, 25c, 10c, or 5c relay. Not sure how the Lock Relay effects the Lock Relay. On close inspection, it appears that this relay (Lock Relay) is being energized by itself (if I separate one of the contacts of this relay, it opens, and stays open).

As a side note, and this seems very weird, if I trip the coin slot to add games, the game counter wheel actually goes backwards.

Thank you! I suspected that they both may normally be energized. However, the coil on the Lock Relay looks like it has vastly overheated.

I'm awaiting delivery of a bunch of replacement part, and servicing tools, and am planning on going over the entire machine cleaning and adjusting. Can't understand how I seem to have lost my few pinball tools....it's only been some 40 years since I last owned one of these

Thanks again! I'll probably be back in a week or so...but, I'll start a new thread.