(Topic ID: 256813)

Pac-Man Molex pin question


By RonMexico

51 days ago



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  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by RonMexico
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switch matrix (resized).PNG

#1 51 days ago

Going to try and re-pin some connectors for the first time. Does anyone know what size Molex pins to buy for my Mr & Mrs Pac-Man? I want to re-pin a couple connectors and cannot figure out the size for the life of me. I'd appreciate the help.

#2 51 days ago

.100 and .156 for the solenoid driver board
.100 for the mpu board and lamp driver board
.093 for the display connector harness and power supply

The 093 are pretty robust and would be the last I'd replace. .100 I would replace both the male (board) and female (connector) connections. .156 I inspect closely and if tarnished/plating gone I replace both as well if not just the female connector side.

Practice on scrap wire a bit first to make sure you're making good crimps. The ratcheting both wire and insulation at same time works the best IMO.

#3 51 days ago

They are all KK types, .156 and .100 inch. Make sure you order keys.

The display connectors are .156 The universal M&L connectors on the rectifier board rarely need replacing.

#4 51 days ago

I appreciate the feedback. My left exit lane resets the game when rolled over and when specific drop targets are dropped. I’ve read that re-pinning connectors can help alleviate the situation.

#5 50 days ago

After you're done repinning, check your voltages and run a switch test.

#6 50 days ago
Quoted from RonMexico:

I appreciate the feedback. My left exit lane resets the game when rolled over and when specific drop targets are dropped. I’ve read that re-pinning connectors can help alleviate the situation.

Before you spend all that time re-pinning the connectors, are you sure it is not just a shorted diode on a playfield switch? When you say that the game resets, do you mean that it starts over from ball 1 or that you tilt, or do you mean that the whole game powers down and switches back on? If the former, it is likely a shorted diode that is triggering a switch -- perhaps the start button -- when three other switches are pressed. Can you identify the exact drop targets that are dropped when this happens? Can you post a picture of the switch matrix? (If not, I may be able to look it up.)

I had a similar problem on my Flash Gordon, and it was a short, not the connectors.

#7 50 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

.100 and .156 for the solenoid driver board
.100 for the mpu board and lamp driver board
.093 for the display connector harness and power supply
The 093 are pretty robust and would be the last I'd replace. .100 I would replace both the male (board) and female (connector) connections. .156 I inspect closely and if tarnished/plating gone I replace both as well if not just the female connector side.
Practice on scrap wire a bit first to make sure you're making good crimps. The ratcheting both wire and insulation at same time works the best IMO.

Early Bally SS pins have no .093 contacts. They use .084 if I remember correctly.

#8 50 days ago

When my 2nd and 3rd targets on the lower left bank of the playfield are down, the left exit lane resets the game (back to ball 1 w/ points from rollover)

It also makes the right exit lane end that current ball upon rollover, even though the ball is still rolling on the playfield.

When all targets are up, game has no issues. It’s the 2nd and 3rd drop targets on the lower lower left bank and the two outside exit lane. Nothing else seems affected.

#9 50 days ago

Please circle the switches in this diagram. See if they form a rectangle. If so, you have a shorted diode.

switch matrix (resized).PNG

Watch this video:

#10 50 days ago

I can't find the start button in that switch matrix, though.

#11 50 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I can't find the start button in that switch matrix, though.

It's on the cabinet wiring page you'd have to overlay it. It's ST0 I5 (column 0 row 5)

pasted_image (resized).png
#12 50 days ago

I appreciate all the help.

#13 49 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

It's on the cabinet wiring page you'd have to overlay it. It's ST0 I5 (column 0 row 5)[quoted image]

Interesting. Is it technically part of the switch matrix at that position, just with different wiring and going to a different connector?

OP, if you can identify the location of the switches that are closed when this happens on the switch matrix diagram, we may be able to help.

#14 49 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Interesting. Is it technically part of the switch matrix at that position, just with different wiring and going to a different connector?

Yes, it's still part of the switch matrix. Some strobes are shared between 2 different connectors j2, j3. Why bally chose to not draw the complete matrix on one page I'll never know. Stern did the same thing, but at least they include a page that has the switch matrix drawn the same way for the cabinet as the playfield switches.

1 month later
#15 8 days ago

Updated 1/14/19. It was awhile before I had time to get back to the machine. Took apart the connectors from the door to the cabinet and just cleaned them first before re-pinning everything. Took off the diodes from the reset button and cleaned the switches and cleaned everything in the door, put it back together and bang, back to normal. When I think about it now, I neglect maintenance on my the door to both my machines. That’s on me. Appreciate all the help and insight to the problem, everyone. Learn something new everyday about pinball maintenance. It’s awesome!

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