(Topic ID: 246659)

Oxo issues

By Nihonmasa

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 32 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Nihonmasa
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • OXO Williams, 1973

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20190706_201615 (resized).jpg
20190706_201604 (resized).jpg
20190706_121613 (resized).jpg
#1 5 years ago

Hi guys,

Picked up an Oxo yesterday, and having some issues.
Opening a thread as suggested by steviechs .

First issue: Extrall saucers are lit "randomly" at the start of a ball. Checked the relay bank, it resets fine. Something else seems to trigger it.

Second issue: stuck on the circle. Was moving some times to cross yesterday, not today. => SOLVED

Third issue: middle right circle (right roll over) not lighting up. It does activate if I activate the relay by hand or if I touch another cirle. Bottom left relay (see pic) gets stuck on until I active the 6-O relay by hand or through another one. => SOLVED

Fourth issue: center and bottom middle circles not lighting up when they should. Scores and dings as it should. => center is now ok. But no light at all on N8 => SOLVED

Fifth issue: sometimes the games (last time it did it I hit the center target) just goes on a point frenzy and continuously add points. Only way to stop it is to tilt.

Sorry for all these points, first EM that I try to have working as expected
20190706_121613 (resized).jpg20190706_121613 (resized).jpg

#2 5 years ago

Hello @nihonmasa. I will help you get your OXO working. I'll warn you in advance that I am doing this from memory, my OXO is on loan, so I could get something wrong. But we will correct any errors as we go.

Only five problems? There are more, you just haven't found them yet!

Let's start with problem #2:

Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Second issue: stuck on the circle. Was moving some times to cross yesterday, not today.

The 'X' and 'O' changes every time 10 points are scored. When 10 points are scored, for example the slingshots, the Match Unit stepper in the backbox steps up one position. You will find the Match Unit in the top middle of the backbox. It only has one solenoid and is a Continuous Stepper type; it goes 'round and 'round like a clock.

Please score 10 points on the playfield and see if this stepper unit is moving.

If it is not moving, you can manually try to step the unit up. With the game off, find the solenoid and plunger on the Match Unit. Manually push the plunger in and release. Did the stepper move? If it didn't move or is sluggish, a very common problem in these old EMs, you will have to clean and adjust the Match Unit. We will tackle that later, if needed.

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

Hello nihonmasa. I will help you get your OXO working. I'll warn you in advance that I am doing this from memory, my OXO is on loan, so I could get something wrong. But we will correct any errors as we go.
Only five problems? There are more, you just haven't found them yet!
Let's start with problem #2:

The 'X' and 'O' changes every time 10 points are scored. When 10 points are scored, for example the slingshots, the Match Unit stepper in the backbox steps up one position. You will find the Match Unit in the top middle of the backbox. It only has one solenoid and is a Continuous Stepper type; it goes 'round and 'round like a clock.
Please score 10 points on the playfield and see if this stepper unit is moving.
If it is not moving, you can manually try to step the unit up. With the game off, find the solenoid and plunger on the Match Unit. Manually push the plunger in and release. Did the stepper move? If it didn't move or is sluggish, a very common problem in these old EMs, you will have to clean and adjust the Match Unit. We will tackle that later, if needed.

Thank you!

Solved It was slugish. Cleaned, greased with Silicon => all good!

Next

#4 5 years ago

If the extra ball saucers are lit but the relay on the bank is reset then check the contacts on that relay.

Does it score an extra ball if you put a ball in the kick out? Or is it just the lights?

#5 5 years ago

For your point frenzy, try to keep an eye on what the last points were scored off of before the points start rattling off. Most likely you just have a stuck switch

#6 5 years ago

@Steviechs: yep, saucers do give an EB when it happens.

For the frenzy I'll check, it seems to appear on the center target but not always. It goes on while the bonus is scored, through the next ba, but vanishes if I tilt. Will recheck both target and 5-O - 5-X relays

Tried to solve issue 3, by adjusting relay switches but no luck.

If anyone has pics of how their relay bank is set up (what's opened and closed) that'd be much appreciated!

#7 5 years ago

If extra ball is being awarded, then I’d guess the relay itself is open instead of reset. All of the relays should be in the same position upon reset; a locked mechanical hold (when not powered they stay in place). The switches may be closed or open, but ever relay lever should be locked in

#8 5 years ago

Not sure what you mean, so took a pic after reset

Spent the last 45mns on issues 3 &4 with no luck.

For issue 3, it will not unlock the bottom left relay (label missing) until the left rollover relay is activated, and then it lights both in the same time.

20190706_201604 (resized).jpg20190706_201604 (resized).jpg20190706_201615 (resized).jpg20190706_201615 (resized).jpg
#9 5 years ago

Ok, spent some more time

Issues 3 &4 solved.

For score frenzy, it happened again when I hit the center target with the cross lit

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Solved It was slugish. Cleaned, greased with Silicon => all good!

I think you mean Silicone Grease. I'm glad you didn't say WD-40! Pinball machine and WD-40 should never meet.

There are many ways to fix a Stepper Unit problem. On one end of the scale is the full teardown of the stepper, clean, adjust and put back together. On the other end of the scale is the quick fix. I'm not saying one is better than the other. It depends on your skill level and what you are trying to accomplish. If the Match Unit becomes sluggish again, a full teardown and rebuild is best and you shouldn't even need any Teflon or silicone grease. I always do a full teardown, cleaning, adjustment and rebuild on these old stepper units. But, it is working now so we can move on to other problems.

You seem to be pretty good at this so I am going to recommend that you download the following PDF documents. These will help you pinpoint specific problems.

These documents are from the IPDB Webpage https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=oxo&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick

Schematic: https://www.ipdb.org/files/1733/Williams_OXO_EM.pdf
Instruction Manual: https://www.ipdb.org/files/1733/Williams_1973_OXO_Instruction_Manual.pdf

These will appear in your browser. Then download them to your hard drive so you will have them on hand and so you can open them in a PDF reader - easier to zoom in on the schematic.

Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Fifth issue: sometimes the games (last time it did it I hit the center target) just goes on a point frenzy and continuously add points. Only way to stop it is to tilt.

There are some questions and tests that you need to answer to help narrow down the problem.

Does the 100 point score reel ONLY go crazy when you hit the center target? If you are absolutely 100% sure that it is the only time you get a point frenzy, then no need to do any further testing.

Both the Center Target and Bottom Rollover Button score 500 points, the only features on the playfield that score 500 points. Do you ever get the runaway 100 Point problem when the Bottom Rollover Button is hit? Please thoroughly test closing the Bottom Rollover Button Switch to see if the problem arises.

Here is a test I want you to try. With the 1000 Point pop bumper not lit it will score 100 points. Please press down on the plastic skirt and release. You should see 100 points added to the score. Now repeat this five times quickly. You should see 500 more points added to the score. Is the 100 Point Score Reel scoring correctly or are you getting more points than you should?

Please let me know what you are seeing so we can focus in on the problem source.

#11 5 years ago

Thx a lot for the feedbacks
Will do the tests and report.

Just forget to say previously: manual and schematics were downloaded from IPDB and printed right after I came home with the machine. The Manual helped me solve the other issues, but as I expected I am having difficulties reading the schrmatics, I am missing the logic to read it, cause I read the left part, for example, ok, clear, but then it all goes to the same perpendicular line, which for me means they're all connected and then I have no clue where to go...
Any video tutorial on how to read those to advise?

edit: tests done; so yep, it only does it with the center target. Tried with the bottom roll over: 500 working as expeted. 5 quick taps on the 1000 bumper unlit => 5000 as expected. Any idea?

#12 5 years ago

This is a good video because it is a Williams EM he is debugging:

This thread is excellent but you are really have to dig in and commit some serious study time to learn. If you don’t understand it at first, that’s okay. Come back to it at a later time and reread it until some of it begins to sink in.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-schematic-fully-described-from-beginning-to-end-bally-bon-voyage

#13 5 years ago

Thanks a lot, will check that! Probably tomorrow as it's 11pm over here

tests done; so yep, it only does it with the center target. Tried with the bottom roll over: 500 working as expeted. 5 quick taps on the 1000 bumper unlit => 500 as expected. Any idea?

Edit: after reading the manual, I'll try to look closer at the middle target relay tomorrow.

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

5 quick taps on the 1000 bumper unlit => 5000 as expected. Any idea?

It’s your 100 Point score reel that is scoring too many points, right? Be sure the ‘100 Points/1000 When Lit’ pop bumper is not lit when doing the test and scoring 100 points, not 1000.

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

It’s your 100 Point score reel that is scoring too many points, right? Be sure the ‘100 Points/1000 When Lit’ pop bumper is not lit when doing the test and scoring 100 points, not 1000.

Yep, hundreds.
I miswrote and edited, tried when it was unlit.

In any case, many thanks for your help and explanations!

#16 5 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

it only does it with the center target. Tried with the bottom roll over: 500 working as expeted.

Okay, good. This pretty much eliminates the Impulse Cam Switch D as the problem.

Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Tests done; ...5 quick taps on the 1000 bumper unlit => 500 as expected. Any idea?

This pretty much eliminates the 100 Point Relay in the backbox.

I want you to open the OXO Instruction Guide. At the bottom of the document you will find the relays listed and what each switch on the relay does. Then, please find the relay marked "CENTER TARGET.' Find the switch that "PULSES 100 POINT RELAY, THRU IMPULSE CAM SWITCH C." This is the switch on the Center Target relay that is the likely culprit.

Now you need to find the 'Center Target Relay' under the playfield. I'm pretty sure that it is the relay in the middle front. Find that switch that you looked up and see if it is adjusted properly. It is a normally open switch, so there should be a 1/16" gap when the Center Target Relay is NOT energized.

#17 5 years ago

If the chimes are sounding all of the time that the 100 Point score reel is going crazy, you need to take a look at the Center Target switch to see that it is properly gapped. If the chimes are only sounding five times, at the beginning, when the point frenzy is happening, then we can probably eliminate the Center Target switch as the problem

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Not sure what you mean, so took a pic after reset

That looks right, but my guess is that the extra ball was not lit when that reset occurred. The next time you see the Extra ball light, take a look at the relay bank and you’ll probably see that the metal plate on the last relay is “open”.

The relay has a mechanical catch that holds all the switches in place. When the solenoid fires, the catch is released and the metal plate “opens”. This allows all the switches to change their state. If you were to manually trigger the plunger of the last relay, you should see the extra ball lights turn on

When you randomly get that extra ball lit up, the reset didn’t complete entirely (I believe because the bar has to reset all of those relays and being on the end, the extra ball one is susceptible to not catch)

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

First issue: Extrall saucers are lit "randomly" at the start of a ball. Checked the relay bank, it resets fine. Something else seems to trigger it.

Another test for you to do. On ball one, light three X's or O's in a row to light the '5000 Points and Extra Ball When Lit' Eject Saucers. Let the ball drain. Do the saucers stay lit? Repeat this about ten times to catch an intermittent problem.

Do the Eject Saucers '5000 Points and Extra Ball When Lit' ever light up WITHOUT getting three X's or O's in a row?

Quoted from steviechs:

When you randomly get that extra ball lit up, the reset didn’t complete entirely (I believe because the bar has to reset all of those relays and being on the end, the extra ball one is susceptible to not catch)

I've seen this exact same behaviour on my OXO. And, like you say, I believe the reason is because it is the bank relay on the opposite end from the reset solenoid. Unfortunately, I don't remember what I did to fix it. I know I did a kludge for a while - I taped some paperboard to the part of the relay that the reset bar touched, but I don't remember the permanent fix!

And, if I remember correctly, the problem spread to the relay next to the '3 In Line' relay, either the '9X' or the '9O' bank relay. The point being that the problem will need to be properly fixed or it will spread. Don't bother with any kludges!

This may or not be your problem @nihonmasa. The answers to the questions I posed will help to determine where we look next. If your problem is with the reset, and for anyone else who is having reset problems on OXO, I will tell you about my experiences.

As far as the fix goes, I think I took the reset bar off and removed the plunger from the solenoid and did a lot of cleaning - all done with Q-Tips soaked in 91% Isopropyl alcohol:

  • Removed the solenoid sleeve and cleaned the inside of the solenoid
  • Thoroughly cleaned the solenoid sleeve, inside and out
  • Cleaned the reset bar pivot points of all old grease
  • Added a small amount SuperLube Teflon grease to the cleaned reset bar pivot points - one of the few places where Teflon grease is appropriate
  • Cleaned and polished the plunger with Mother's Mag Aluminum Polish until the plunger was smooth as a baby's bottom
  • Cleaned, with Isopropyl, the inline fuse holder, right next to the reset solenoid and polished the fuse contact points with a Dremel and a #443 wire brush
  • I will try to remember if there was anything else that I did.

#20 5 years ago

Wait, wait, I'm seeing something coming through the crystal ball.

Switch 1D on the Score Motor pulses the reset solenoid. I cleaned this switch and contacts using the Magic Brush method - cleaned with a Q-Tip soaked in 91% Isopropyl alcohol, polished the contacts with a Dremel tool using a #443 wire brush and finally cleaned again with a Q-Tip soaked in 91% Isopropyl alcohol. Then I adjusted the switch so there was a 1/16" gap.

The Williams Score Motor Cams on OXO are labeled as follows:

  • The Cam next to the motor is the Index Cam
  • The next cam is labeled 1
  • Then come cams 2, 3, 4 and 5
  • Next in line is the Impulse Cam
  • The last cam, the furthest from the motor, is the Impulse Forward Cam

The switches on the Score Motor Switch Stacks are labeled A, B, C, D, etc. The bottom switch is Switch A. A 'switch' can be either Make or normally open, Break or normally closed or Make/Break both normally open and normally closed. Make and Break switches have two copper leaf switches and a Make/Break switch utilizes three copper leaf switches.

So, Score Motor Switch 1D is on the second cam from the motor and the fourth switch from the bottom at the top of the switch stack - easy access! This switch carries a lot of current and the contacts can become pitted. Spend extra time polishing the contacts with the Magic Brush. Sometimes the contacts can become so pitted that some people use a fine file to remove the pits. I personally don't use this method. It removes some of the contact metal and the Magic Brush method has always been enough to allow current to flow through the contacts.

There are other switches in the circuit that may need to be cleaned. But go ahead with the previous steps and see if these solve your problem.

#21 5 years ago

Thanks for all the answers!

So, here are the news:

Point frenzy:
Center bank relay : fine. Center switch : fine. Still happens. I have actually counted, and it chimes (yep, it also chimes) 5 times 500 points.

Extraball:
I don't think it's related to the reset; this would mean it was activated on the previous ball and carried over. When it happens, it was not activated on the previous ball. I also tried the test to activate it and let the ball drain => not carried over.
Please also note that now the behaviour is slightly different; whenever I got an EB during the tests and drained, the "Same player shoot again" got unlit during the reset and then it moved to the next ball, thus not according any EB.

Noe I also have N6 switching on at the start up of the ball, sometimes related to the extra ball?

Other brand new issue: during the initial reset at the start of a game it now goes to Ball 1 and then straight to ball 2. Ball 1 is no longer playable.

It'll eventually be ok XD Have to leave today and will resume the troubleshooting this evening or tomorrow. I'll clean Cam switch 1D in the meantime.

#22 5 years ago

For the lack of ball 1 I had a look at the ball count unit; looks like it works as it should. It seems that during the start up phase for a new game, something is sending the signal to it once too many.
Looked at the video and trying to figure out the schematics

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

For the lack of ball 1 I had a look at the ball count unit; looks like it works as it should. It seems that during the start up phase for a new game, something is sending the signal to it once too many.
Looked at the video and trying to figure out the schematics

If the Ball Index relay is energized when the game starts, it will skip ball 1 and go to ball 2. Do you know how to tell if a relay is energized or not? Find and check this relay. It is on the bottom mech board.

What are you using to clean contacts on the leaf switch blades? If you don't have a Dremel tool, that's alright. There are other tools you can use.

There are two types of contacts in a typical Williams EMs - the small contacts and the big contacts.

http://pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm#common

The small contacts can be cleaned first with a Q-Tip soaked in Isopropyl alcohol and then with a burnishing tool or paperboard, not the shiny type, like a business card. Do not use sandpaper on the small contacts. They use a softer metal.

The large contacts carry a lot of current and are typically tungsten. Contacts this old have usually become pitted and oxidized. They can first be cleaned with a Q-Tip soaked in Isopropyl alcohol and then with a fine file or fine sandpaper in a pinch.

Clean switches with the game off!

This information pertains to EMs only! Solid state pins have different types of contacts and no abrasive tools should be used.

Please read this to get a head start on general EM repair:

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

It is a good idea to read through the whole document once, and then go back to reference specific sections pertaining the issue you are having.

#24 5 years ago

And once again you were spot on! Index ball relay was mechanically stuck.
Issue solved, ball 1 is back! And it also solved the shoot again not according the extraball issue in the same time

I'll do some more tests to check if the other issues keep coming up or not. Meanwhile I am comin gto read your link.

I'll stop by your shop in April next year when I'll be in Arizona to buy you a beer

Oh, and I clean the contacts with a file or sand paper, depending on how bad it looks.

#25 5 years ago

Congratulations!! OXO is one of the most complex EMs that Williams made. Pat yourself on the back, but please don't break your arm.

If you are in Arizona, we should meet. I can show you around Tucson and we can play some pinball!

If you find any more issues, just post them here.

#26 5 years ago

Well, I still have my crazy scoring issue
I am wondering if it is not trying to score the bonus in hundreds when I hit the center target?

It does not always activate, and does not chime the same amount when it happens... Weird.

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Well, I still have my crazy scoring issue

There are five switches that could be causing this issue, unless I'm missing something.

  • The Center Target Switch - energizes Center Target Relay
  • The Center Target Relay Switch 1D - Pulses 100 Point Relay Through Impulse Cam Switch C
  • The Center Target Relay Switch 2A - In hold circuit to this relay
  • The Impulse Cam Switch C - Pulses 100 Point Relay
  • 100 Point Relay Switch D

We can pretty much eliminate these switches because the problem only occurs when the Center Target it hit:

  • The Impulse Cam Switch C
  • 100 Point Relay Switch D

And I'm thinking that we can eliminate this switch too because the score motor has to be running AND the switch has to be problematic. Not a likely scenario and not what you are seeing.

  • Switch 1D on the Center Target Relay

That leaves these two to focus on:

  • The Center Target Switch
  • The Center Target Relay Switch 2A
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Fifth issue: sometimes the games (last time it did it I hit the center target) just goes on a point frenzy and continuously add points. Only way to stop it is to tilt.

Is this still the behaviour that you are seeing or has it changed?

Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Point frenzy:
Center bank relay : fine. Center switch : fine. Still happens...

Do you mean the Center Target Relay? Did you find the Center Target Relay? Are you sure? Williams labeled their relays under the playfield so that is a good way to identify the Center Target Relay - unless the label has fallen off! Then you would have to lift the playfield, close the Center Target Switch and watch to see what relay is activated.

What do you mean by "fine"? Check for the following on the Center Target Switch and the Center Target Relay Switch 2A:

  • Are the switches properly gapped to 1/16" when open?
  • Have the contacts been cleaned?
  • Are the leaf switch lugs (the part of the leaf switch where the wires are soldered) close or touching?
  • Are the wires to those switches loose, touching or frayed?

The Center Target Relay Switch 2A is on the top row and the closest switch to the coil.

#28 5 years ago

Yep, I mean the Center Target Relay

Center target switch is clean and properly adjusted. Not guilty I think
Center target relay switches are clean and seem properly adjusted.
Lugs and wires are ok and not touching.

When it goes on the point frenzy, the target switch is clearly not touching. But the relay keeps activated.

I'll take pics and a video next time it happens I've just been able to play a few games with no issues, but I am sure some more will occur as I will now move on to change the plastics/rubbers/bulbs and polish the playfield

#29 5 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

For the frenzy I'll check, it seems to appear on the center target but not always.

This is cornfusing to me. Have you determined if another switch, like the Bottom Rollover Button switch, causes this behaviour?

Quoted from Nihonmasa:

It goes on while the bonus is scored, through the next ba, but vanishes if I tilt.

If I'm reading this correctly, the 'scoring frenzy' starts, sometimes when the Center Target Switch is closed. It then continues through the bonus score counting and then even when the next ball is served to the shooter lane. Do I have that right?

Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Center target switch is clean and properly adjusted. Not guilty I think
Center target relay switches are clean and seem properly adjusted.
Lugs and wires are ok and not touching.

Some switches have a metal piece, relatively thick, that is meant to prevent the switch from getting too far out of adjustment. It is shorter than the two copper Leaf Switch Blades so you will have to peek down between the Leaf Switch blades to find it. This metal piece is most commonly seen on Slingshot Switches and switches in the middle of the playfield close to the flippers, exactly like your OXO Center Target Switch. I don't have OXO here to look, but I strongly suspect that you will find this metal piece as part of the Center Target Switch Stack. If this metal piece is touching the other switches or close, it can close the circuit. Please check to see if this is happening. You can adjust this metal piece to prevent this problem.

If that isn't the problem, then it's time to dig deeper into the schematic.

Quoted from Nihonmasa:

When it goes on the point frenzy, the target switch is clearly not touching. But the relay keeps activated.

Good! That is key information. I was going to ask that question next.

Check the Score Motor Switch 5C. Cam 5 is the sixth cam from the Score Motor and it has three switches, A, B and C. Switch C is the top switch. It is a make/break switch. It the the break part of that switch that I suspect. With the game off, you can manually turn the Cam Unit. When looking from the front of the pin, that should be clockwise. The top part of the Make/Break Switch is the break switch. When turning the Cam Unit, verify that this switch is opening to a proper 1/16" gap. Clean the switch while you are at it.

If I'm reading the schematic correctly, I would expect the Bottom Roll Over Button switch, when closed, to behave like the Center Target switch. But that is not what you are reporting so I'm not 100% sure if this might be the problem.

1 month later
#30 4 years ago

Ok, quick question as I played it a bit yesterday: bumpers are not lighting up. In which condition should they lit?
I I thought it was by hitting the A & B targets?

Hitting them light their inserts but not the bumpers.

#31 4 years ago

Hitting the left 'A' target lights the left blue '100 when lit' pop bumper lamp. Hitting the right 'B' target lights the right blue '100 when lit' pop bumper lamp. Hitting both the 'A' target and 'B' targets light both of the blue '100 when lit' pop bumper lamps AND the middle green '1000 when lit' pop bumper lamp.

Carefully remove the cover of each pop bumper cap and set it aside somewhere where it will be safe. These beauties are pretty much irreplaceable so treat them with kid gloves. You don't know how long these lamps have been in the pop bumpers so, even if they still light, replace them with new #47 incandescent lamps. Do NOT use #44 lamps! They run hotter and you don't want to risk melting the pop bumper caps. Did I mention that these are irreplaceable? Yes, I think I did. You can use LED lamps, bayonet style, but use ONLY non-ghosting warm white. Any other color will look funny.

The gear style pop bumpers that Williams used in this era are some of the most powerful used in the 70s. The new incandescent lamps will sometimes blow prematurely. They don't make incandescent #47 lamps like they used to. You can replace with better GE NOS #47 lamps or the type of LEDs mentioned above.

Look at all of the points of failure on the pop bumper lamp socket by following these instructions:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-pecos-quiz-diagnosing-em-and-early-ss-pin-problems#post-4992114

The pop bumpers lamp socket uses a piece of metal and not a spring loaded contact that the lamp sits on and contacts. Clean it until it is shiny. You might have to use a small hook to lift the metal piece so that it makes good contact with the lamp.

After a thorough cleaning, and replacing the old lamp, replace the pop bumper caps. Don't tighten the screws too tight! You don't want to crack the pop bumper caps. You might be able to find a replacement, but, then again, you could live an entire lifetime and never find one of these for sale.

#32 4 years ago

Leds were already installed.
Easily solved actually, all 3 had socket issues.

Now on to the last issue I saw: when the 3 inline are done, the extraball inserts are not lighting as they should by the scoops.
But if we get in the scoops they do award it. Might be another socket issue.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 25.00
Various Other Swag
JK Pinball
 
From: € 50.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pin Art
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.