(Topic ID: 312947)

Oxidized Balls

By CUJO

2 years ago


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  • 86 posts
  • 30 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by sparky672
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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There are 86 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 2 years ago

7 years ago I traded a 19' Rinker runabout and trailer for a South Park pin in very nice shape.

The balls in looked badly oxidized so I replaced them immediately.
Just today I noticed that they were turning oxidized again.
This has never happened in any other pin I own.

I put a pic of a new ball next to the 5 oxidized balls for comparison.

Anyone else experience this issue in a pin over and over again? Very odd.

Chinese drywall playfield? LOL

CuJo

20220402_184523 (resized).jpg20220402_184523 (resized).jpg
#2 2 years ago

Where do you keep the game?

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

7 years ago I traded a 19' Rinker runabout and trailer for a South Park pin in very nice shape.
The balls in looked badly oxidized so I replaced them immediately.
Just today I noticed that they were turning oxidized again.
This has never happened in any other pin I own.
I put a pic of a new ball next to the 5 oxidized balls for comparison.
Anyone else experience this issue in a pin over and over again? Very odd.
Chinese drywall playfield? LOL
CuJo[quoted image]

How often do you replace them? You’re supposed to replace the balls every year or so depending on plays. I always keep a microfiber cloth around and wipe them down and try to avoid ever touching them so the oils on your hands don’t rust them. It helps to wax them.

#4 2 years ago

I think it might have to do with constantly flushing them down the toilet.

Sorry - couldn’t resist.

#6 2 years ago

Yeah, seems like there must be rust somewhere that those balls touch.

Also, oxidized balls makes a much less effective punch line than rusty balls.

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from titanpenguin:

Where do you keep the game?

It has been inside in an climate controlled non-smoking home since I got it and swapped in new balls.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Yeah, seems like there must be rust somewhere that those balls touch.
Also, oxidized balls makes a much less effective punch line than rusty balls.

That's what I was shooting for...LOL

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

How often do you replace them? You’re supposed to replace the balls every year or so depending on plays. I always keep a microfiber cloth around and wipe them down and try to avoid ever touching them so the oils on your hands don’t rust them. It helps to wax them.

It doesn't get a lot of play anymore. Maybe 4-6 games a month if that.

I will inspect the trough tomorrow but I think it's fine. It's been in climate controlled home since the trade.

Even if the trough was rusty it would be dry inside so it shouldn't cause the balls to change like that.

I would think exposure to some sort of gas or chemical over time would/could possibly cause that but it's a clean cool carpeted game room.

I changed the 5 balls out today with new balls from a Stern package I hadn't open from a new pin.
I wouldn't expect to see changes for years based on the last set.

I thought the guy that traded me the pin maybe kept in a a very humid place but the pin is in very good condition.
There is no wear on the Cartman or Kenny holes like you normally see on these games too. No detectable odor in game, very clean inside cabinet as well.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I think it might have to do with constantly flushing them down the toilet.
Sorry - couldn’t resist.

But how would I get them back????
Ohh. I see what you are implying.
Hardy Har Har...

1 month later
#11 1 year ago

For your viewing pleasure, I found the original pic of the balls that were in SP the day I got it, next to the balls I was putting in.

20171029_113004 (resized).jpg20171029_113004 (resized).jpg
1 year later
#12 4 months ago

Update: 11/30/2023

I put (5) new shiny stainless steel balls in on 08/14/2023.

They are already looking dull and have the same oxidized patterns forming over them in just 3 months.
This is crazy. It sits right next to my BOP, SP, WOZLE and Space Jam. These still have original balls or at least haven't changed
those in 5-6 years and they aren't dulling or oxidizing.

This pin has been in a climate controlled room since I got it about 10 years ago. No idea where the prior owner kept it.
This pin is in very good shape..no odd smells..very clean..playfield almost immacualte (no wear around Cartman hole or Kenny).

The post rubbers seems to get hard faster than the other pins too. They get brittle and start breaking apart quicker than other pins.

I'm just concerened that this pin is releasing some kind of gas or chemicals that is turning these balls so quickly.

Anyone ever experience this with any pin doing this so rapidly?

What could be so caustic?

#13 4 months ago

This identical thing happens to the balls in my LOTR. It's been going on since I purchased it nib.

If you take the balls out and clean them with windex they look like new again. There is no rust. First ball has been wiped with windex.

I have a theory that the black posts are leaving a waxy substance on the balls then they pick up the dirt from the playfield. I have purchased some red silicon posts and will to change out the black.

20230703_013731 (resized).jpg20230703_013731 (resized).jpg
#14 4 months ago

Very interesting analogy!
I will take out the balls and see what Windex does for them. I'll take before and after pics.

#15 4 months ago

Well, I don't think the waxy balls theory holds up in my scenario.

These were new Ninja balls I put in SP on 8/14/2023.

The pic without the paper towel is before cleaning them with Windex.

beforecleaning (resized).jpgbeforecleaning (resized).jpg

The pic with the paper towel is after extensive cleaning with Windex.

aftercleaning (resized).jpgaftercleaning (resized).jpg

#16 4 months ago

I’m not an expert and have not worked on pinball machines too much. But cars I have a bunch. Could this be galvanic corrosion? If there is a small grounding out issue in the ball trough with dissimilar metals you might see some evidence in the ball trough or another spot the balls sit. Normally there is a presence of liquid for galvanic reactions but the results are more destruction and fast. Really though this is just a theory.

#17 4 months ago

Junkyard,

Thanks for your theory.

I think the only metal to metal contact is the ball trough which would have to be "electrified" to start a galvanizing process. The pin sits 99% of the time powered off. Since August when new balls were put in, the pin may have been on for 5-6 hrs tops.

Pinballs are made of Stainless Steel, right?

So what type of chemicals or vapors could do this to these balls so quickly?
Even outside of a pinball machine?

I even have this cheap $35 radiation detector form Amazon I put inside the pin to see if this thing was stored at Three Mile Island. No reading.
I bought it to check for Radon Gas.

Puzzling....

#18 4 months ago

Following... I've never seen or heard of your situtation.

#19 4 months ago

CUJO,
Yes it was just that, a theory. Yes there would need to be dissimilar metal contact and electricity. Could just be grounding out though. I don’t think pinballs are stainless, I just bought some and they come coated in oil and are chromed. The ones for magnets are carbon steel. In any case stainless steel is just that, it stains less, it’s not stain proof. You could try keeping the machine unplugged.

Vinegar rusts up metal quick as well as finger oils. But chrome is resistant to the latter. Salts possibly from sweat, though unlikely. You could buy a humidity gauge cheap enough, they also have them for wood. Maybe you could try a desiccant pack or several to suck up moisture.

#20 4 months ago

I cruised through this thread pretty fast, but don't recall anyone asking about the source of the balls? Where are you buying them? Could it be an issue with the quality of the balls themselves? Have you tried sourcing them from another supplier to see if the same thing happens?

You mentioned that yours were "stainless steel". However, according to PBR website, they only sell "chrome steel" and "carbon steel". If your supplier is calling them stainless steel, I'd be suspicious.

#21 4 months ago
Quoted from CUJO:

Pinballs are made of Stainless Steel, right?

To be considered stainless steel, it needs to contain a certain percentage of chromium and/or nickel. Regular carbon steel pinballs do not. The Ninja balls are chrome steel, but I don't know if the alloy they use contains enough chromium to be considered "stainless".

#22 4 months ago

Pinballs are either chrome steel (magnetic) or carbon steel (non-magnetic). Maybe determine which you have and try the other type in the game.

Also, what happens if you take balls from one of your games where this doesn't occur and put them in this game? Maybe you just have a bad new batch of balls.

#23 4 months ago
Quoted from CUJO:

I'm just concerened that this pin is releasing some kind of gas or chemicals that is turning these balls so quickly.

Have you ever cleaned anything in or near this machine using chemicals such as HCL (muriatic acid), bleach, ammonia, etc? Are there any leaking batteries inside the cabinet? Are there any chemicals stored nearby, such as drain cleaners, acids, hydroxides, etc?

#24 4 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Pinballs are either chrome steel (magnetic) or carbon steel (non-magnetic).

If by "magnetic" you mean that they are attracted to magnets, then of course carbon steel is also very magnetic.

#25 4 months ago
Quoted from sparky672:

I cruised through this thread pretty fast, but don't recall anyone asking about the source of the balls? Where are you buying them? Could it be an issue with the quality of the balls themselves? Have you tried sourcing them from another supplier to see if the same thing happens?
You mentioned that yours were "stainless steel". However, according to PBR website, they only sell "chrome steel" and "carbon steel". If your supplier is calling them stainless steel, I'd be suspicious.

The set of 5 balls I put in in August 2023 were Ninja balls.
Those are the ones in the recents pics I posted where I tried to clean them with rubbing alcohol and Windex.

I just put in a new set of 5 that came from online bulk pinball retailer that were very greasy in the container. So cleaned/wiped down 5 new balls and installed them yesterday. We'll see what happens. Here is the link to the ones I put in yesterday:

ebay.com link: itm

#26 4 months ago

Maybe chefs chocolate salty balls are contagious.

#27 4 months ago
Quoted from sparky672:

Have you ever cleaned anything in or near this machine using chemicals such as HCL (muriatic acid), bleach, ammonia, etc? Are there any leaking batteries inside the cabinet? Are there any chemicals stored nearby, such as drain cleaners, acids, hydroxides, etc?

Nope. SP sits among these three pins in spare bedroom in climate controlled non smoking, no pets home.
No issues with oxidizing balls in the other three pins at all. SP has been in this room for 7-8 years.
PXL_20231201_172122949.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20231201_172122949.MP (resized).jpg

#28 4 months ago
Quoted from CUJO:

I just put in a new set of 5 that came from online bulk pinball retailer that were very greasy in the container. So cleaned/wiped down 5 new balls and installed them yesterday. We'll see what happens. Here is the link to the ones I put in yesterday:
ebay.com link: itm

Very interested in how those pan out for you. I bought some of those (from bctrade) and they rusted rather quickly. I chalked it up to the high humidity in the summer (my pinball room does not have AC), but I don't know. So I put DampRid containers in all my pins. That's still an experiment in progress... not sure if it helps.

#29 4 months ago

Buy some balls from Marco. Suck it up and just pay for shipping as it's an experiment. None of these eBay balls

#30 4 months ago
Quoted from sparky672:

If by "magnetic" you mean that they are attracted to magnets, then of course carbon steel is also very magnetic.

Pardon my lack of specificity. Chrome balls have a tendency to become slightly magnetically charged when used in games with magnets. In these games you must use carbon steel balls which do not take on a magnetic charge. Not saying your game with issues has magnets in it or not, but curious if the different metallic properties of the ball types would make a difference or not.

#31 4 months ago
Quoted from junkyard:

Maybe chefs chocolate salty balls are contagious.

Actually, Schweddy Balls might be the best.

#32 4 months ago

I bought my last set from PBR for a 1980's Gottlieb a while ago and due for new ones again. I keep my machine in the garage (I know, I know), and never had one spot of corrosion or discoloration on the balls, even before I fixed the machine and it sat idle for years. Chrome itself does not "rust" but it's not bullet-proof to corrosion. Also, when steel is highly polished, rusting is less likely to a small extent due to the microscopic surface properties. Maybe there was a manufacturing issue with that batch of Ninja balls?

#33 4 months ago
Quoted from junkyard:

I’m not an expert and have not worked on pinball machines too much. But cars I have a bunch. Could this be galvanic corrosion? If there is a small grounding out issue in the ball trough with dissimilar metals you might see some evidence in the ball trough or another spot the balls sit. Normally there is a presence of liquid for galvanic reactions but the results are more destruction and fast. Really though this is just a theory.

I was wondering something like that. Since it only happens in one pin. Are the balls being electrically plated or something ?

For a start. I'd plug an outlet checker into the service outlet, see if power is correct.

LTG : )

#34 4 months ago
Quoted from bayoubilly70:

Buy some balls from Marco. Suck it up and just pay for shipping as it's an experiment. None of these eBay balls

It' s a specific issue to this SP. I don't know the prior history of where pin had been before I got it but the balls in it were a mess!!!
There is no odor of any chemicals, smoke inside cabinet.
(See the pic of them at top of this thread for ugly balls)

All the other pins in this same climate controlled room are not needing a ball swap yet in 4-5 years.

I've tried three different manufacturers inc what I think is the best, Ninja.

The set before that came from Pinball Life.

We'll see how fast these from eBay "tarnish" or oxidize in the next 2-3 months.

The playfield is in great shape with very little wear. I'll post topside pics later.

#35 4 months ago
Quoted from sparky672:

I bought my last set from PBR for a 1980's Gottlieb a while ago and due for new ones again. I keep my machine in the garage (I know, I know), and never had one spot of corrosion or discoloration on the balls, even before I fixed the machine and it sat idle for years. Chrome itself does not "rust" but it's not bullet-proof to corrosion. Also, when steel is highly polished, rusting is less likely to a small extent due to the microscopic surface properties. Maybe there was a manufacturing issue with that batch of Ninja balls?

This has happened to (3) sets of balls from (3) different sources 6 months apart in the last swap, 1 yr before that.

#36 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

I was wondering something like that. Since it only happens in one pin. Are the balls being electrically plated or something ?
For a start. I'd plug an outlet checker into the service outlet, see if power is correct.
LTG : )

I do have one of those testers but the other (2) pins are both plugged into the same surge strip (SJ and BOP).

#37 4 months ago
Quoted from CUJO:

I do have one of those testers but the other (2) pins are both plugged into the same surge strip (SJ and BOP).

Plugging your tester into the games service outlet lets you know if that game is wired right.

Something is going on. Just keep eliminating possibilities.

LTG : )

#38 4 months ago

Are the balls rusting while the game is 100% idle? As others said maybe the trough or something is causing it. Take the glass off and leave it off. Keep one ball in the trough, scatter the other balls in various spots to see if it's any specific area/scoop etc. Maybe something with the flipper rubbers having some kind of material on it from someone who cleaned them or something. Clean the playfield anyway, maybe some cleaning product is still present. If they are getting bad after playing around only, then some deep investigation might be needed.

Sanity check: trade one ball from your other games with one in the south park to see if your sources are all just for some reason not good. Steel is steel though. If they come relatively shiny and you wipe them with a cloth before install, then its just a steel ball hanging out in a machine. If you think its a post, just tape a ball tightly to a post and see if one side rusts.

#39 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Plugging your tester into the games service outlet lets you know if that game is wired right.
Something is going on. Just keep eliminating possibilities.
LTG : )

Check this--make sure you don't have a open ground, open neutral or swapped line-neutral connections. Since it's easy to do, you can change out the power cord for good measure. I had a brand new (chinese) power cord that had a ground defect manufactured into it. Got a not entirely unpleasant minor shock from the lockdown bar on a WPC game every time it was played.

#40 4 months ago

You're going to have me going to check my SP now.

#41 4 months ago

Did they go through the SP toilet?

#42 4 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

You're going to have me going to check my SP now.

I know it's something inherent to that SP pin as it came with these balls in it. I took pic of new balls next to bad balls I put in that day, like 8 years ago.

Going to investigate the power issue as LLloyd suggested.

This is a 3-4 month ball oxidizing process. It doesn't happen overnight.

20171029_113004 (resized).jpg20171029_113004 (resized).jpg
#43 4 months ago
Quoted from bayoubilly70:

Did they go through the SP toilet?

All the time! LOL

#44 4 months ago

Clean all your metal items that the ball contacts really well. This is the type of corrosion you get from something like pledge residue on metal parts.

#45 4 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Clean all your metal items that the ball contacts really well. This is the type of corrosion you get from something like pledge residue on metal parts.

It changes the coating layer of the ball, it's nothing that can be cleaned or wiped off once it oxidizes.

I'm mystified by why this happens but I don't mind just popping in new balls every 6-12 months.

A mystery but will inspect/clean under playfield, the habitrails underneath but it's not like the ball is picking up something that is sticking to it.

I can see the dullness set in just after 5-6 weeks after new balls. Decided to change sooner than the last time I swapped in new balls. (different brand)

My only guess at this point is some sort of electro plating or current on the trough as Lloyd suggested.

#46 4 months ago
Quoted from CUJO:

My only guess at this point is some sort of electro plating or current on the trough

If your service outlet checks good for game being wired right. As an experiment I'd try grounding the ball trough. That would end any stray current there.

LTG : )

#47 4 months ago

Someone mentioned chemicals like ammonia, how often do you clean the glass? Use windex that has ammonia? Possibly the lockdown bar seal is bad and ammonia getting in there from windex? Just a thought

#48 4 months ago
Quoted from CUJO:

It changes the coating layer of the ball, it's nothing that can be cleaned or wiped off once it oxidizes.

I meant clean all the metal parts in the machine.
The balls are hosed.

#49 4 months ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

Someone mentioned chemicals like ammonia, how often do you clean the glass? Use windex that has ammonia? Possibly the lockdown bar seal is bad and ammonia getting in there from windex? Just a thought

I use Windex but I spray the paper towel first, then wipe the glass. Do all my pin glass that way.

If I clean the inside of the glass , same method but on the floor standing glass on edge of my foot, then wipe vertically.

#50 4 months ago
Quoted from CUJO:

I use Windex but I spray the paper towel first, then wipe the glass. Do all my pin glass that way.
If I clean the inside of the glass , same method but on the floor standing glass on edge of my foot, then wipe vertically.

Couldnt hurt to switch to ammonia free just to be safe

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