Add Hokus Pokus to that list. Maybe someone can post the schematic for it.

Hi Playdium
want to read this - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hokus-pokus-outholebonus-score-reset#post-3651130 - so far I have put together (from arcade-museum) the schematics --- the JPG I made is of 4.2 MB data - the PDF (then made) is 2.6 MB data. If You want a copy: Write me an personal message with an EMail-Address - I will send copy / copies. If needed: I can rearrange the manual and make the "Manual only". I do not post such huge MB data in pinside. Greetings Rolf

Hi 5280wzrd
some Bally-pins have this feature --- an separate 100'000-points-relay for each player - one "Delay-Relay" - the buzzer and some wiring. Bally runs on 50VAC - Gottlieb runs on 24VAC - You cannot simply take Bally parts.

In the schematics "Royal Flush" I see: We can set the "adding a replay and making the Knocker to knock" to 99'000 points. Want to try this setting (for a while) ?

IF (if, if) You want a buzzer buzzing at 100'000 points: Are You willing to do some "research work" --- in the Bally-pins the "Delay-Relay" has an 455 (6VAC) flasher bulb to quickly cut the established Self-Hold-Current on the "Delay-Relay" --- the 455 (6VAC) bulb acts withing a short period of time - on 50VAC --- the question is: What is the action of the 455 (6VAC) bulb run by 24VAC ?
(((There are maybe other ways to get the "delayed / put-off cutting the Self-Hold-Current" - costly or hard work to implement.))) Greetings Rolf

I've experimented with delay relays a bit recently. Here are some of my observations:

Bally delay relays use a 455/flasher bulb in series with the hold circuit of the relay. Once the delay relay is activated by something else (like a slam tilt switch) the hold circuit to keep the delay relay active is a switch on the (now active) delay relay in series with the 455 bulb. As current passes through the bulb, switch and delay relay coil, the bulb heats it up until it eventually blinks off, probably due to a bimetallic strip inside the bulb which works like a thermostat. When the bulb blinks off, current stops flowing and the delay relay returns to its rest state.

The delay of a Bally delay relay is somewhat variable due to a couple of factors. 1) 455 bulbs vary a bit in how long they take to turn off so the delay can vary from bulb to bulb. 2) The delay depends on the starting temperature of the 455 bulb. The delay of a cold 455 bulb will be much longer than the delay of a bulb that is still warm from the last time it flashed. This isn't much of an issue if you're using the delay for uncommon events like slam tilts or 100k points, but it is something to be aware of if you want to use it for something more frequent.

A Bally delay relay can't be used in a 24VAC Gottlieb or Williams game because although the relay does fire, there isn't enough current through the 455 bulb to get it hot enough to switch off. The 455 bulb barely glows at all and the delay relay stays on indefinitely.

A Bally style delay relay could in theory be built with a 24V coil and a 455 bulb for use in a 24V game. The trick is to find a coil whose resistance allows an appropriate amount of current to pass through the 455 bulb to have it switch off after the desired delay. I tried a couple of Gottlieb coils I have and found one where the delay was much too short (low coil resistance, high 455 current) and another that never fired (high coil resistance, insufficient 455 current). More experimentation with a variety of coils, or adding a high current/low resistance potentiometer to the hold circuit to adjust the delay would probably find a combination that works.

Gottlieb style delay relays use a capacitor, diode and resistor to charge a capacitor and discharge it through the hold circuit of the delay relay. These have the advantage of having more consistent delays, but require large capacitors for anything more than a very brief delay unless there is something like a spinner refreshing the capacitor periodically during the delay.

/Mark