(Topic ID: 288440)

Outhole switch replacement


By Gnrwarkfc

9 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by DaMoib
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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There have been 7 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

outholeRelaySwitches (resized).jpeg
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Sky Rider Switch (resized).jpg
6502FD87-B641-4783-AC2A-5F965010E1DE (resized).jpeg
27A7708A-1124-45A2-B0A6-99794BB80955 (resized).jpeg

#1 9 days ago

Does anyone know what kind of switch that I could buy to replace outhole switch on my Chicago coin top ten pinball machine? It’s the switch that tells the kick out to kick out a new ball. It’s from 1975.

Here’s the schematic. Maybe someone has an idea I haven’t thought of. https://images.pinside.com/f/11/b5/f11b5fb1e63f1b7998e72535a1b7bad9d162ef9c.pdf

Thanks in advance for any guidance

#2 9 days ago

Check this parts catalog: http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/stern-classic/stern-parts-catalog-1979.pdf

I’m not positive it’s there but there is a good chance.

#3 9 days ago

Could you post a pic of the switch? What's broken?

#4 9 days ago
27A7708A-1124-45A2-B0A6-99794BB80955 (resized).jpeg6502FD87-B641-4783-AC2A-5F965010E1DE (resized).jpeg
#5 9 days ago

The switch basically isn’t powering the coil when it’s closed.

#7 9 days ago

you've tried cleaning the contacts and adjusting the switch? The coil does fire correctly when you use a jumper to short around the switch?

#8 9 days ago

There are 2 circuits on that switch

#9 9 days ago

Barring someone coming up with a Chicago Coin replacement part number, drawing and/or source...

Can you post other angles of the switch? The solder tabs, the individual switch leaves, contacts. Is that bottom blade bifurcated (forked)?

#10 9 days ago

Yes it is forked!! Does my replacement need to be forked?

Quoted from DaMoib:

Barring someone coming up with a Chicago Coin replacement part number, drawing and/or source...
Can you post other angles of the switch? The solder tabs, the individual switch leaves, contacts. Is that bottom blade bifurcated (forked)?

#11 9 days ago

Yes, it should be forked. Assuming no one can come up with a MacGuyver-ish solution, your best bet is to either find the CC part number and a source, cobble together equivalent switch leaves from other sources and make a new switch, OR fix this one.

On the fix this one path - do the switch leaves look broken? Do they have switch contacts mounted on the blades? Are those contacts clean?

I'm having trouble reading this CC schematic, is a page missing? Looking for the wire colors of the switch leaf that fires the kickout coil...

#12 9 days ago

I have to believe it’s something you can clean or adjust. I’m always opening up or closing up switches a little when they start getting a little unreliable or stop working altogether. I think there are adjustment tools you can get, but I find a small, angled needle nose pliers works well.

I have a CC SKy Rider of similar vintage, bet it uses the same switch. I will take some pics tonight or tomorrow.

#13 9 days ago

Slightly different switch (no fork), sorry. Is there a ball in the trough when you took the first picture?

The switch seems like it's closed (the shorter leaf looks bent upward) and if there's no ball there - looks like it should be open. Mine has a pretty huge gap unless / until the ball sits in there.

I have not had to do much to this game since I got it (one small issue with the player unit) but those rusty mounting screws are making me cringe....

Sky Rider Switch (resized).jpg

#14 9 days ago

Thanks everyone I really appreciate you all trying to help. It’s just so frustrating. I’ll restart the game and almost always the first ball kicks out after that you never know. I was hoping replacing the switch could possibly resolve the problem but it sounds like from your responses just finding another switch might be an issue.

It’s just totally unreliable and I can’t locate one variable.

Quoted from JudeRussell:

Slightly different switch (no fork), sorry. Is there a ball in the trough when you took the first picture?
The switch seems like it's closed (the shorter leaf looks bent upward) and if there's no ball there - looks like it should be open. Mine has a pretty huge gap unless / until the ball sits in there.
I have not had to do much to this game since I got it (one small issue with the player unit) but those rusty mounting screws are making me cringe....
[quoted image]

#15 9 days ago

Are you sure it's the switch? There are many other possibilities. See my post in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-outhole-switch-wire-form-and-col#post-6143485

#16 9 days ago

If it always pops the ball on ball 1 it is not the switch.

#17 9 days ago

Do you have the schematic?

#19 8 days ago

OP's PM reply:
Hey there. Thank you so much for reaching out. I did see your response but I’m not entirely sure where that relay is in my machine. Do you have any advice as to how to locate it?

Probably on the bottom board. Are your relays labelled?

#20 8 days ago
Quoted from HowardR:

not entirely sure where that relay is in my machine. Do you have any advice as to how to locate it?
Probably on the bottom board. Are your relays labelled?

There may be a row of relays on the underside of the playfield. This is from my Pinball EM

gnrwarkfc did you look in the parts catalog I linked earlier in the thread? There is at least one whole page of switches in there.

51F65E7B-218F-4833-B8AE-FF22F8E6311F (resized).jpeg

#21 8 days ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

There may be a row of relays on the underside of the playfield. This is from my Pinball EM
gnrwarkfc did you look in the parts catalog I linked earlier in the thread? There is at least one whole page of switches in there.
[quoted image]

Thank you yeoldpinplayer . So you’re saying it’s directly under the play field as opposed to the bottom of the cabinet? If so thanks for that clue

#22 8 days ago

howardr is this what you’re referencing? If so this was at the bottom of the cabinet.

F8BC9E7A-C591-42D2-8DAE-9C72A12B3A99 (resized).jpeg
#23 8 days ago
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:

howardr is this what you’re referencing? If so this was at the bottom of the cabinet.
[quoted image]

yes

#24 8 days ago

What do all of those switches need to be doing? Completely opened when activated?

925D2B4F-7D7F-4F89-90E3-D3A3468A086B (resized).jpeg
#25 8 days ago
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:

What do all of those switches need to be doing? Completely opened when activated?
[quoted image]

Someone mangled those switches pretty good. Especially the m/b on the right. Ugh.

#26 8 days ago

Everyone, check me on this... switch positions when relay is activated

Also, ALL switches should be cleaned then adjusted

outholeRelaySwitches (resized).jpeg
#27 8 days ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

ALL switches should be cleaned then adjusted

If it needs adjustment, clean it first. But don’t go through the machine and clean and adjust every switch all at once just because.

You’ll end up with more problems.

#28 8 days ago
Quoted from DaMoib:

Everyone, check me on this... switch positions when relay is activated
Also, ALL switches should be cleaned then adjusted
[quoted image]

It’s just so crazy! I cleaned that switch and adjusted it (that last one that was to be open) but now not only is the kick out wholly unreliable it is stuck just on ball one. That switch has done that exact same thing every time. Em pinball!!

#29 8 days ago

it could be the pic and my eyesight, but the switch that should be 'open' closest to the bottom of the pic, where the screw heads are looks to be 'closed'.

even if it isn't, it's too close to the middle leaf switch imo.

#30 8 days ago

Maybe I don't understand Chicago Coin switches... make/breaks should have 4 leaves, correct? The lowest switch and the 2nd from the top have three leaves, yet are make/breaks? Does Chicago Coin have double sided contacts?

It looks like they're using the tit of the contact for a second contact?

#31 8 days ago

have you tried shorting the solder tabs on the outhole switch, bypassing the leaf blade contacts?

#32 8 days ago

The labelling on the picture above IS correct

#33 8 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

The labelling on the picture above IS correct

Does anyone have a theory as to why when that switch is open (when activated) it now doesn’t advance balls?

#34 7 days ago

The theory (for your original issue) is that there is something wrong in the circuit that HowardR redlined for you. To make progress, we need you to locate the components on that circuit path in your machine and then use the jumpering techniques from the links that HowardR also included in his post (in your previous thread) to identify the component(s) that is/are failing.

The components that need to be located include playfield switches, motor switches, relays, and the particular switches on a given relay. Clues as to the locations of theses components are given on the schematic, labels in the machine and wire colors (to positively identify/verify a particular switch or relay).

If you're not comfortable doing this, or learning how to do it, maybe you could find a friend or a local pinball enthusiast to help... because we definitely need the boots on the ground to do the testing and accurately describe the results.

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