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(Topic ID: 162060)

Original or Rottendog Driver Board for Color DMD?

By twinmice

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by johnwartjr
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


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    #1 4 years ago

    I know i have had some reset issues with my STTNG, do you think a new rottendog driver board would be able to handle the color dmd better with all new components? I would think that the original driver boards are failing because the components are just old and not able to stand up to the power needs of the color dmd? Im by no means a electrical know it all, so just want to see what the guys that do know this stuff think?

    #2 4 years ago

    The colordmd takes stress of the electronics since it no longer needs to HV portion to drive the plasma

    #3 4 years ago

    Hi Mike,

    Resets are caused by dips on the 5V supply, usually due to a failing bridge or capacitor.

    The ColorDMD runs off 12V and shouldn't have any impact at all on your reset problem. To confirm, try hitting both flippers repeatedly to trigger a reset. Then unplug the ColorDMD and try again.

    You could switch out the power driver board to solve the problem, but repairing the 5V supply is an inexpensive and relatively easy fix.


    #4 4 years ago

    I tried that, does not reset unless the color dmd is plugged in, but i have had a color dmd in there for about a year, then out of no where it just started resetting? So just thought maybe the board components are starting to stress because of age.

    #5 4 years ago

    Sorry, correct in my post, the whole game is not resetting, but it keeps blowing fuse #116 12v secondary. The dmd goes blank and the game keeps kicking out balls. I replace the fuse, works great for a few games then blows it again.

    #6 4 years ago

    That makes more sense. F116 is the fuse that drives the ColorDMD, playfield optos, and motors.

    Check the voltage at TP1 with/without the ColorDMD connected. It should be over 13V without the ColorDMD connected and over 12.5V connected. If it's lower than that, you probably have a failing bridge, capacitor, or resistive traces/solder joints on the power driver board. These are all at the upper left corner of the board near F116.

    Blown fuses are not common unless you're trying to drive other mods (like lighted toppers or LED strips). Check to make sure you have the correct rated slow blow fuse. The most current is pulled when the gun motors are active. Turning down the backlight setting on the ColorDMD will reduce the current pulled by the display.

    If you suspect a problem on the power driver board, you can try swapping it with one from another WPC game.

    #7 4 years ago

    Your right, thats when the fuse blows, when the guns are active.

    #8 4 years ago

    So should there not be any mods connected when using a color dmd on these original boards? I only have one light strip in the game along the backboard.

    #9 4 years ago

    On most games it's not an issue but STTNG pulls a lot of current through all the optos and motors so there's really not much overhead left for mods. Running a ColorDMD and an LED strip can send it over the limit (each one can require more than 0.5A) and blow the fuse.

    Turning down the BACKLIGHT setting on the ColorDMD might help a little. Otherwise you might need to look into adding another power supply for the LED strip.

    #10 4 years ago

    Ok, thanks Randy for all the info.

    #11 4 years ago

    Good info - I've also just recently been having reset/blowing fuse 116 issues on my IJ. I have the color dmd plus 4 led strips hooked up as well. New driver board so don't think that's the issue, but something gets unhappy when a lot of stuff is going on in the game... may be overloading as you describe above.

    #12 4 years ago

    Would replacing the 3amp fuse with a 4amp to let it draw a little more power on these games hurt the driver board?

    #13 4 years ago

    Well, just FYI, i replaced the 3amp with a 4amp fuse, played about 10 games or so, everything held up fine, fuse did not blow. Will keep playing and see if it does, if not maybe a fix for these games (STTNG, TZ, IJ) with alot going on? Im sure its not the best fix, but if it works?

    #14 4 years ago

    There are a bunch of expensive boards here (ColorDMD, Driver Board) that are stressing the aged components you mentioned earlier. On custom machines CCC, BoP2 and other PROC games it's common to drive the display from a standalone 12V power supply. It's a standard bump in the line power adapter. I can't imagine it cost more than $10. This is a small price to pay to reduce the load without further endangering your driver board

    #15 4 years ago

    Before spending money on a new RD board, why not have your original serviced? I service lots of these and would be happy to go through yours, and it'll cost significantly less than a new RD board.

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