(Topic ID: 233192)

Original AFM Strobe Repair

By GLSP3022

3 months ago

Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by GLSP3022
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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#1 3 months ago

I've brought a friends AFM back from the dead. Everything is now working but the strobe.
I've done the research online and on old Pinside topics and it seems to point to the poorly designed driver board. Putting 140v thru a 100v cap seems pretty dumb.
It seems there are several fixes.

My quesrions: 1) Are there any driver board rebuilt kits still available out there?

2) if not, what is the "best way" to repair this board?


#4 3 months ago

I wonder why someone couldn't build a board using today's high powered LEDs as a strobe. Low voltage and intense light.

#5 3 months ago

Someone can. Just need to do it.

FWIW - that’s how the remake was done.

#6 3 months ago

Good discussion here about the caps:


I still haven't been able to get the strobe board I've been tinkering with working.


I really like the idea of an LED replacement. I've spent way too much time on that darn thing.

#7 3 months ago

Did you try reaching out to Martin at Pinbits?

#8 3 months ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Someone can. Just need to do it.
FWIW - that’s how the remake was done.

Interesting. Pretty sure Metallica does this too?

#9 3 months ago

After finally getting a chance to pull the strobe driver, I saw the small transformer/starter (in red) had completely fallen off the board. So I crafted new leads for it and resoldered.
I also removed caps C1 and C2 for replacement (yellow arrows). It looked like the end of C1 exploded. I'm going to replace them with 100uF 250v polarized caps but use a 1N4004 diode on the backside as suggested by an old pinside post from yonkiman

I'll start with this and see what happens.

20190105_214715 (resized).jpg
#10 3 months ago

I wanted to bring closure to this thread incase someone ran across it.
The strobe has been repaired and is working well. I replaced C1 and C2 with 250v 100uF polar capacitors. HOWEVER, you must also add 1N4004 diodes across the cap leads on the reverse side of the board. Banded side of diode to the negative lead of the cap.
Failure to add the diodes will cause the caps to pop.
As mentioned earlier, I also had to reattach the trigger transformer after it completely separated from the board.

20190110_193627 (resized).jpg
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