(Topic ID: 228596)

Orbitor 1 - PICTURE UPDATE - Scratch build, reaching for the stars!


By Isochronic_Frost

11 months ago



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  • 126 posts
  • 28 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 29 days ago by Isochronic_Frost
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There are 126 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 5 months ago

Shout out to herbertbsharp as well for tagging me in this amazing deal on Facebook. After getting in an accident and totaling my car on the way to Pinfest, the amazing and incredible pinball community came through for me.

Specifically toastin & jaymach1 for going out of their way to workout a new pickup time and then BRING me the Orbitor 1 parts and head without even being asked! They knew how long I’d been planning this and how badly I wanted those parts. It was incredible of them to do that for me.

Now I have this menagerie of parts and a very nice head save for the missing trim.
The box was a great surprise, not knowing precisely what would be in it!
Now it’s time to get down and dirty, and start putting this mean machine together! I will have to attempt to source and modify the motor for one of the spinning bumpers, and create a bracket for the other, possibly even make my own opto board for this game. At least I have one for reference.

I was surprised to find out Orbitor has plastic flipper brackets. Also a HUGE score I didn’t anticipate: a seemingly complete wiring harness for the cabinet and flipper buttons!

The black plastic piece I included 2 pictures of is a mystery, I’m not sure it is even part of Orbitor but I included it anyway. The box of parts also came with the schematics for the VSU-100 voice module (which I still need) and an invoice for a soundboard repair from 1983! So I guess this box must have been from a gutted machine from around that time, possibly someone salvaging from a damaged cabinet/playfield?

Either way this box is a huge help and I will hopefully have it all wired up and know where I stand by next week. Exciting updates coming soon! 555B7FC3-8DA3-4E92-A866-3B4AF8C716E0.jpeg

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1 week later
#52 5 months ago

For all the Orbitor owners out there, I really could use some pictures of the spinning bumpers. I am trying to figure out how complete these ones are. I think I can fabricate the rest of what I need. The main issue being the bracket mount for the playfield and the fasteners on the spinning cams that hold the fan and the opto disk to it.

#53 5 months ago

Only 889 Orbitor 1s produced.

It is nice to see one rise from the dead.

#54 5 months ago

if I ever get my ass motivated and put on the plastics set I bought for mine, you can have all my old plastics.

#55 5 months ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

if I ever get my ass motivated and put on the plastics set I bought for mine, you can have all my old plastics.

I need the fasteners for the dual spinning shaft that holds the fan and opto disc and the square block the spinner red bumpers pop onto. I also don’t have the screw caps for the top of them. Can anyone provide pictures of those?

#56 5 months ago

i'll try and give you some pics, but they way the playfield is in a metal cage, makes it hard to get clear shots of anything.

#57 4 months ago

Back in 1982, I went to the local Gottlieb parts supplier to get some parts. In the showroom had a few pins and arcade games on display. While waiting for the parts guy I usually played a few pins. One day there was an Orbitor, I started playing it, a another guy comes out from the back and naturally states, "Hey Kids this is not an Arcade". He finally looked at me, I said, 'I am waiting for the parts guy'. The parts guy nodded. So the sales guy then asked, 'What do you think about this game?" I said, "That is unique and totally different. Clear curved playfield and the ability to hit the ball backwards is bizarre." Then he thanked me for the input. I never saw one of these games in any arcade locally. (Greater Vancouver). In a darker room this game stands out, brightly lit room with worn playfield it just looks so so.

#58 4 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

I was surprised to find out Orbitor has plastic flipper brackets.

Ah......it uses the Wico flipper mechs, same as #Gamatron and Af-Tor. I didn't remember that from when I owned one.

#59 4 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

For all the Orbitor owners out there, I really could use some pictures of the spinning bumpers. I am trying to figure out how complete these ones are. I think I can fabricate the rest of what I need. The main issue being the bracket mount for the playfield and the fasteners on the spinning cams that hold the fan and the opto disk to it.

20181227_152733 (resized).jpg20181227_152737 (resized).jpg20181227_152755 (resized).jpg20181227_152708 (resized).jpg
#60 4 months ago

Those black caps with metal bases are common at one time, I installed 100's on truck caps!

I might even still have some, I'll check this morning.

#61 4 months ago

Not sure if the right size but you are welcome to them.

They did come in at least one larger size, I remember using them with toggles to hold truck bed liners in place.

20190525_055920_resized (resized).jpg
#62 4 months ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That’s a huge help! I‘m surprised they’re so deceptively simple!

Quoted from gdonovan:

Not sure if the right size but you are welcome to them.
They did come in at least one larger size, I remember using them with toggles to hold truck bed liners in place.[quoted image]

Yes, I’ll send you a PM! That’s a huge help! I called Steve a PBR and he didn’t have much info on bumpers or any of the parts for the spinning mechs. I’ll pass this info on to suppliers so they can help future searchers with these hard-to-find parts!

I haven’t forgotten about the Outhole protector either. More info about that later. I think it’ll be harder to reproduce than anticipated. Might not be able to 3D print, I may have to find someone to make a complete mold.

#63 4 months ago

If the wrong size, some other places to look-

amazon.com link »

amazon.com link »

ebay.com link

#64 4 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

If the wrong size, some other places to look-
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »
ebay.com link

I went to several hardware stores and they’re mainly called “finished washers” with a plastic cap. Interesting use of materials on Stern’s part.

1 week later
#65 4 months ago

How do I reattach the cardboard light sockets to the underside of the vacuu-formed plastic playfield? Does anyone know the proper adhesive to use??

#66 4 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

How do I reattach the cardboard light sockets to the underside of the vacuu-formed plastic playfield? Does anyone know the proper adhesive to use??

You are probably going to be looking for something from 3M company.

I do not know what would be proper but my thoughts lean toward upholstery type of adhesive. You spray the adhesive on both parts and let it sit for a minute, or whatever it says on the can. And then press one part to the other.

If you follow directions, the 2 parts will be bonded in a permanent manner.

#67 4 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You are probably going to be looking for something from 3M company.
I do not know what would be proper but my thoughts lean toward upholstery type of adhesive. You spray the adhesive on both parts and let it sit for a minute, or whatever it says on the can. And then press one part to the other.
If you follow directions, the 2 parts will be bonded in a permanent manner.

Alright, I just want to thoroughly research it before doing it, because I don’t wanna ruin the playfield, obviously!

#68 4 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Alright, I just want to thoroughly research it before doing it, because I don’t wanna ruin the playfield, obviously!

I guess the question should be asked is if you want them to be bonded on permanently? Or do they need to be removable?

#69 4 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I guess the question should be asked is if you want them to be bonded on permanently? Or do they need to be removable?

Probably removable because they hold the lights in I could switch to LEDs but still the lights wouldn’t last forever. Also the way the lights mount to the cardboard removing them could ruin the cardboard thus making it useless and I don’t want to them to be permanent if they run the risk of being ruined

#70 4 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Probably removable because they hold the lights in I could switch to LEDs but still the lights wouldn’t last forever. Also the way the lights mount to the cardboard removing them could ruin the cardboard thus making it useless and I don’t want to them to be permanent if they run the risk of being ruined

You want something that will peel like Post-it-note, it sound like. Or a merchandise price sticker that can be peeled off. A temporary bond, so to speak.

I have some 3M adhesive that I use to spray on the sanding discs I use on my dual action sander. It holds the discs good enough that I can use the DA and when the disc is worn out I can peel it off and spray a new disc and slap it on and go back to work.

I got this adhesive at an auto body supplies store.

You might try talking to someone at an auto upholstery shop.
========================

You might try to call someone at 3M

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Adhesives-Tapes/Industrial-Adhesives-and-Tapes/Non-Structural-Adhesives/Spray-Adhesives/?N=5002385+5582877+8710676+8710815+8710968+8711017+8713605+3294857497&rt=r3
=============================

What about hot glue? That is easy to apply with a hot glue gun. And when you heat it up with a hair dryer it gives up its bond very fast.

amazon.com link »

#71 4 months ago

Could you use Velcro strips. 1 side glued to the carboard, the other side glued to were the light fixture needs to positioned.

#72 4 months ago

Looking at your photos.

The cardboard rings look like they are to be attached to the underside of the playfield securely. Removing the bulbs requires squeezing the metal parts of the lamp base. Pulling the metal base out of the tube.

New replacement light shields could be made from plastic. If you used Velcro, you will need to cut the Velcro into squares, and removing a circle of material to allow the light to shine through. On the light tubes the velcro will have to folded back and glued onto the outside of the tubes.

#73 4 months ago

OK. I'm looking at your picture.

d0d00847f1a34c9e8fc27b9243386e65fd261f6d.jpeg (resized).jpg
Screen Shot 2019-06-10 at 10.20.39 AM (resized).png

You are wanting to attach these cardboard tubes to the under side of your play field. I agree with Darcy, replace the cardboard with plastic tubes. I think you could find the right diameter in PVC plumbing tubing. For what you are doing, hot glue should hold those tubes securely enough to the play field. Hot glue would be a temporary bond that can be broken with a hair dryer.

I'm 95% positive that the type of plastic the play field is made of is bondable and will accept Superglue. So you could bond either cardboard tubes or plastic PVC tubing to the play field in a permanent bond using superglue. But hot glue has good holding power and gives you the flexibility of a temporary bond.

If you wish to take it a little farther, you could bond a a small flat piece of plastic to the side of the plastic tubes; This would make a mount to which you could use a standard bayonet light bulb socket. You can buy bayonet sockets in all kinds of configurations for any type of mounting situation. The metal tabs on these sockets bends into any shape of angle easily. You could make the bulb fit into a plastic tube at any depth you would want and be able to get rid of that squeeze type socket if you wanted to.

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large (resized).jpg

#74 4 months ago

Those cardboard light tubes are pushed onto the playfield bottom, are they held by friction or is there evidence of a glue being used?

Plastic tubes could held on with surface tension, by putting thin tape on the posts for the lights. Ever so carefully pushing the tubes in place. Some care must be taken as that underside playfield plastic may have become brittle with age.

This sure proves how different these Orbitor 1s were.

#75 4 months ago
Quoted from Darcy:

Those cardboard light tubes are pushed onto the playfield bottom, are they held by friction or is there evidence of a glue being used?
Plastic tubes could held on with surface tension, by putting thin tape on the posts for the lights. Ever so carefully pushing the tubes in place. Some care must be taken as that underside playfield plastic may have become brittle with age.
This sure proves how different these Orbitor 1s were.

Yes it’s got a thick, yellow-ish glue on most of them. I will post some pictures later when I pull it back out

#76 4 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Yes it’s got a thick, yellow-ish glue on most of them. I will post some pictures later when I pull it back out

Could of been 3M Automotive trim Adhesive. It was cheap and lasted a long time and is yellow or black.

1 month later
#77 3 months ago

I can tell you that the plastic piece that the cardboard light tubes are glued to is very thin and brittle (at least mine is). Preceed with caution. Mine chips very easily on the edges of holes in the plastic. I would also be careful using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften adhesive. The plastic is thin and vacuum formed. I'm sure it wouldn't take much heat to deform it.

I don't know what type of adhesive was originally used. If I had to take a guess (and it's only a guess) , I would say the plastic is some type of styrene. It has the same feel and texture as styrene. The good news there is that styrene is very easy to glue with a variety of adhesives.

On mine, all the cardboard tubes are still firmly attached. So I have not attempted to reglue them. Several of the cardboard tubes have started to peel apart though. Most of them are deformed into oval shapes from the spring pressure of the lamp sockets. I have wrapped the outside in masking tape to hold the cardboard together and then put a plastic wire tie around the outside to help hold the light socket in place. This seems to work well. I have thought about replacing the cardboard with a piece of plastic tubing, but I'm not sure if I can get the cardboard off without damaging the thin plastic they are glued to.

1 week later
#78 3 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Not sure if the right size but you are welcome to them.
They did come in at least one larger size, I remember using them with toggles to hold truck bed liners in place.[quoted image]

Sorry for lack of updates, so many things and other projects going on... finally got a chance to check these from gdonovan and unfortunately they’re too small! I went to the store after and checked and it seems like 2inch ones would fit correctly, but nobody had the flat finish nuts, they all were Bell-shaped which was frustrating! Also the screw hole in the 2in ones were HUGE not sure what they normally secure them with...

My next move is to find the correct finish nuts as well as try and source the correct motor from Granger’s, hopefully they can help!

Another obstacle in my path to launch this Orbitor has reared it’s head. The flipper brackets are missing, and I was given extremely helpful pictures by pinchatt

If any brave and kind soul wants to lend me the metal flipper support/mount to used as a template to fabricate my own I will be sure to have a pair made for you aswell! I’ve also found someone to make the spinning bumper brackets and will have extras made for anyone else who would like to attempt this in the future!

EC7DC132-638E-407B-A926-C065366E924D.jpeg0A674308-88B3-4614-9B1E-C0540CF1CBCC.jpeg13120BE1-CC9A-404C-8E8E-809BC264AFD2.jpeg691411A6-9C17-47B4-BF4E-102670E991EE.pngAE7B5933-4FD1-40C2-979F-3A5F50E1EE39.png
#79 3 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Sorry for lack of updates, so many things and other projects going on... finally got a chance to check these from gdonovan and unfortunately they’re too small! I went to the store after and checked and it seems like 2inch ones would fit correctly, but nobody had the flat finish nuts, they all were Bell-shaped which was frustrating! Also the screw hole in the 2in ones were HUGE not sure what they normally secure them with...
My next move is to find the correct finish nuts as well as try and source the correct motor from Granger’s, hopefully they can help!
Another obstacle in my path to launch this Orbitor has reared it’s head. The flipper brackets are missing, and I was given extremely helpful pictures by pinchatt
If any brave and kind soul wants to lend me the metal flipper support/mount to used as a template to fabricate my own I will be sure to have a pair made for you aswell! I’ve also found someone to make the spinning bumper brackets and will have extras made for anyone else who would like to attempt this in the future![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those motors look like Dayton C-Frame motors.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dayton+c-frame+motors&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwicoKWC2cfjAhUBVa0KHXZGACMQ_AUIEigC&biw=1276&bih=897

Zoro.com carries a lot of these. All sizes. And there other sellers, as well.

https://www.zoro.com/dayton-c-frame-motor-shaded-pole-1-in-l-sleeve-4m070d/i/G0896384/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIofPzhdnH4wIVRdbACh1OswMVEAQYAiABEgI59vD_BwE

#80 3 months ago

Super cool - never played one, but wanted to. Best of luck!

#82 80 days ago

Great news!! Got this Berserk coindoor from ejacques and IT FITS! Stern did, in fact, use the same coindoor for everything! The difficult part was finding a door with the 3 separate pieces of the bracket.

One more thing done from the checklist! In a day or so I’ll try and post pictures of the game so far!! It’s almost there.

9EC5BE65-4398-4E96-900F-F2832AAA59D7.jpeg00C59EA1-FCEE-439A-AE59-E9024549D35E.jpeg
#83 78 days ago

Sold mine, just checking on your progress! Looks like you have aquired almost everything you need.

Ill check back for updates. This is a cool project to make from scratch IMO.

#84 77 days ago
Quoted from Shoot_Again:

Sold mine, just checking on your progress! Looks like you have aquired almost everything you need.
Ill check back for updates. This is a cool project to make from scratch IMO.

Congrats I was actually checking the market for your ad, I’m really glad it ended up selling!

12
#85 77 days ago

BIG PICTURE UPDATE: This is where I’m at with Orbitor 1 so far! Very excited with all the progress, it’s finally looking like a pinball machine

This has taught me a lot already and now I’m excited for the first power on! Waiting on display holders and a few of the line-in pieces. Should be able to power it up this week!

We started with only a cabinet back in November
Cabinet onlyPlayfield added in January, Head in mayGetting somewhereMy patient sister willing to hold the head upNow we add the boards!0E532CDA-3003-4E52-8E12-889FB3E102A8.jpegThe MPU and DriverA2A093CA-E1C7-4F08-879E-AA4CDC15F354.jpegI believe the small one is for soundA3F73491-9260-4282-AFA0-C75451EEF899.jpegF03DFDB2-EF62-4A10-90FC-873211DD98BC.jpegAll that's left is a VSU-100 which I'm still hunting for!Let's make this baby sing!
Finally coming together, this is looking like a complete game!
No legs make it Imamaculate

#87 76 days ago

Just curious, does anyone know what ROMs “Bowl” might be?

image.jpg
#88 76 days ago

Not sure if it’s been said yet, but I threw a led strip around the bottom of the play field so you can choose colors

#89 76 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Just curious, does anyone know what ROMs “Bowl” might be?

Do not know, but a guess would be the name they used for pre-production, since the playfield is not flat.

#90 76 days ago
Quoted from Darcy:

Do not know, but a guess would be the name they used for pre-production, since the playfield is not flat.

I actually just went through my old PMs (I bought this boardset 8 months ago) and this MPU was actually used in a stern arcade game converted to a bowler. But yes, bowl is fitting

Quoted from bangerjay:

Not sure if it’s been said yet, but I threw a led strip around the bottom of the play field so you can choose colors

It hasn’t but I’ve seen the mods, and this one is missing parts of the light assembly anyway so I wanted to use the LED strip method. It would help to have pictures for guidance on how it was setup!

#91 76 days ago

IT’S ALIIIIVE
MPU gave the correct amount of blinks relay clicked on and off. Backbox GI works. I’M FEELIN’ GOOD.

Just gotta burn the Orbitor 1 ROMs now, don’t have a burner myself so gotta bother some friends!

Now before anyone comes to point out, I know it’s just GI but that means at the very least that using a Lightning wiring harness and a M-100 transformer & relay board still works however Frankenstein it may be!
(O1 has no playfield GI, it relies on the large fluorescent tube which I am replacing with LED strips.)
C8A97B7D-0AA6-4D50-9B46-D84A621BD983.jpeg

#92 76 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Just gotta burn the Orbitor 1 ROMs now, don’t have a burner myself so gotta bother some friends!

I have a burner, LMK what you need and I'll drop it in the mail.

Damn, this was post #2000!

#93 76 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Just curious, does anyone know what ROMs “Bowl” might be?[quoted image]

Black Beauty Shuffle bowler?

#94 76 days ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

Not sure if it’s been said yet, but I threw a led strip around the bottom of the play field so you can choose colors

Call Pinstadium quick, new product idea

#95 70 days ago

Just got my baby back from GreatScott! restos! Such a fun game.
Would like to beef up my flipper coils to get the back targets, anyone done this?
Did my own drain hole repairs and came up pretty nice. Keen to get some led strip going soon.
Alltek board installed but the target insert lamps flicker like crazy even with anti ghost leds?

20190811_172431 (resized).jpg20181128_140126 (resized).jpg20190622_131153 (resized).jpg
#96 70 days ago

Nice work on the drain hole. How did you fix it?

To use LEDs on any classic Bally or Stern you’ll need these:
http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=44&controller=product&id_lang=1

pasted_image (resized).jpeg
#97 70 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Just got my baby back from GreatScott! restos! Such a fun game.
Would like to beef up my flipper coils to get the back targets, anyone done this?
Did my own drain hole repairs and came up pretty nice. Keen to get some led strip going soon.
Alltek board installed but the target insert lamps flicker like crazy even with anti ghost leds?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow! Very nice job on the drainhole repairs!! I can’t honestly tell the difference! How did you achieve such a perfect look?

#98 70 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Nice work on the drain hole. How did you fix it?
To use LEDs on any classic Bally or Stern you’ll need these:
http://www.siegecraft.us/presta/index.php?id_product=44&controller=product&id_lang=1[quoted image]

That says that if you have the Altek board you don’t need the adapter? Or is there a different Altek for the lamp driver

#99 70 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

That says that if you have the Altek board you don’t need the adapter? Or is there a different Altek for the lamp driver

Yeah I was assuming the Alltek MPU. The Alltek lamp driver should work with LEDs. If not, contact Alltek for help/replacement board.

#100 70 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Just got my baby back from GreatScott! restos! Such a fun game.
Would like to beef up my flipper coils to get the back targets, anyone done this?
Did my own drain hole repairs and came up pretty nice. Keen to get some led strip going soon.
Alltek board installed but the target insert lamps flicker like crazy even with anti ghost leds?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'll keep saying this because it is an easy item to overlook. On the Alltek MPU board, in the upper left hand corner of the board you will see two pin jumpers and two sets of 3-pins. To use the Alltek MPU on a Stern those jumpers need to be on the two left hand pins for correct operation. For Bally pins, the jumpers need to be on the two right hand pins. If you are not jumped correctly you may run into problems, such as flickering LEDs and general poor performance.

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