(Topic ID: 225451)

Opto stuck closed.

By yellowghost

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by PinMonk
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    #1 5 years ago

    Have a Dr.who with a bad opto that is stuck closed..the reciever thinks its getting a signal even when an object breaks the beam. However..when you trigger either opto on either side of the switch column..the opto works fine. It was suggested as a bad diode on optic board. I changed the three optos for those 3 switches and no change. My next step will be to change the optos themselves but I have a hunch that wont do anything. Maybe a bad UC chip?

    #3 5 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    The receiver should always get a signal with an opto - that's how they work, a constant invisible beam from emitter opto to reciever opto. When a receiver does NOT get a signal that means the invisible beam is broken and something is blocking the emitter opto (the ball, usually, triggering the opto) OR the emitter is broken and not sending a signal OR the receiver is broken and not reading the signal the emitter is sending.
    As long as you've checked to make sure they have power, you have a bad emitter or receiver opto (or both).

    I know..the receiver continues to recieve signal even when I block the path of the beam of light. The emmitter only recognizes the object when one of the two other switches are closed.

    #5 5 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    Please put the game in switch test mode and take a picture of the diagnostic screen on the DMD.

    Sure. I uploaded a movie instead. Notice that theres a ball in the left scoop already

    #7 5 years ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    Something is definitely weird because when you hit the Right opto eject, the Left opto eject also activates. It's not clear if that's because of a short or because when you hit the right opto the left opto "sees" the ball all of a sudden. You need to remove the ball and re-test the optos in their native state. The movie is helpful, though. I'd do it for the re-test, too.

    Will need to remove the upper playfield and check the wiring too I guess. Theres one more diode connected to that circuit that I can change as well.

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