(Topic ID: 304876)

Opinions on hardtop for swords of fury?

By Bospins

2 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by jazc4
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 2 years ago

I have a nice SOF, cabinet is very clean, nice back glass, fixed all the electrical and mechanical stuff, rebuild flipper mechs, nvram, rebuilt power supply, Titans, comets, etc etc…but the playfield is like a 7 / 10. The factory Mylar is in place and the machine is definitely very presentable but it has the typical bubbling over the inserts, and wear in the left outlane, and where the ball drops from the upper pf.

Basically my options are touch up the playfield, sand the inserts, new decals and go for a protector (which I did for my whirlwind and it came out nice), or go for a hardtop.

I haven’t done a hardtop before…but am interested to try it.

One reason I liked the PF protector route is someone could always clear it later if they got the desire. With a hardtop…that’s it.

For those that have done hardtops, what was your experience with it? For those that decided not to, why not?

#2 2 years ago

I can’t recommend the Hardtop enough. But from your description of the playfield, I’m not sure I’d go for it. The sanding makes a huge mess and it’s very easy to misalign if you are not super careful. The product is meant for playfields that are trashed. How bad is this playfield? I didFE0954A9-E1BC-4063-8B45-877FB007187D (resized).jpegFE0954A9-E1BC-4063-8B45-877FB007187D (resized).jpeg mine on Taxi because the area where the pop bumpers were looked terrible. Here’s what I was working with. Note gameplay with a hardtop is much faster than a normal playfield.

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#3 2 years ago

Delete

#4 2 years ago

Thanks for this! The mylar has to come off, my expectation is removing that will likely cause significant paint lifting. Maybe not…but if experience is any guide…

Either way, with the hardtop or the PF protector, the play will be similar (both are pet-g I think).

The hard top can’t be “touched up” the way a playfield can…this machine will likely live out its life as a home use machine so I’m not too concerned about commercial durability, but for those that have had them on the machine for years and hundreds of plays, have they held up?

#5 2 years ago

There are a couple horror stories in the hardtops thread from guys who have had them lift and bubble, but the vast majority of guys loved them and had no problems besides a hole or 2 misaligned, little stuff.

I bought one for my Evel Knievel but ended up selling it and spent the extra $$ on a CPR playfield - to me the hardtops just look "plasticky" - but for games that don't have repro playfields, it's your only option aside from touching it up yourself.

As for how they've held up, I don't have them on any of my games but you will never wear one out in a home environment. You should check out the hardtops thread - lots of info in there.

#6 2 years ago

Bospins it seems like you haven't done a hardtop before. I wouldn't recommend having SoF being your first. Its the hard mode of hardtops. I did mine and it was a royal PITA, the holes/inserts weren't right at all (I think because mine was an early run game) ... Luckily I had a restoration friend helping.me.and we eventually got it all right, but there was still some bubbling on the left side (luckily all under.plastics/upper playfield) but yeah.... Not the most fun experience. I did a High Speed and a Grand Lizard and they were MUCH easier.

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from pinzrfun:

There are a couple horror stories in the hardtops thread from guys who have had them lift and bubble.

This happened to me but it was all related to the printer changing their inks without informing Outside Edge. Bruce took care of me in the end. It was a huge PITA to remove and replace the hardtop but I feel confident that the adhesive issues have been resolved.

#8 2 years ago

I didn’t have any lifting on mine, it went down and stayed down, even just touching it to the playfield it had a strong grip. On the hardtop, the art is printed on the backside and then the rest of the clear surface is on top of that. So it would take a very very long time if it was even possible to wear it down that much.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from truemagoo102:

Bospins it seems like you haven't done a hardtop before. I wouldn't recommend having SoF being your first. Its the hard mode of hardtops. I did mine and it was a royal PITA, the holes/inserts weren't right at all (I think because mine was an early run game) ... Luckily I had a restoration friend helping.me.and we eventually got it all right, but there was still some bubbling on the left side (luckily all under.plastics/upper playfield) but yeah.... Not the most fun experience. I did a High Speed and a Grand Lizard and they were MUCH easier.

This is 100% true, would be my first…

I did read through some of the hardtop thread, I’ll read some more. I’m leaning towards doing it. A full playfield restore with clear is not in my skill set or budget to have someone else do, the playfield protector is about half the cost of the hardtop anyway, and honestly it would probably take the same time to prep with color matching and touch ups and the result wouldn’t be as perfect looking as the hardtop. I’m not sure what it would do to the value of the pin, but for me, if I were looking at one with a properly installed hardtop, if view that as a bonus worth paying extra for. (Not sure how others feel about that)

Maybe I’ll have time to do this AND the Addams family decals I just got! My sander will be getting a workout.

#10 2 years ago

If you decide to do it LMK. I have an unused SOF hard top I'd sell for $50 off retail.

That said I wouldn't hard top a 7/10 without first exploring my restore options.

#11 2 years ago

Here is a video by Cary Hardy on installing a hardtop on a Sword of Fury.

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