(Topic ID: 292560)

Opinion : Would you change C5 and C11 on this driver board?

By Archon9000

5 months ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Archon9000
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 5 months ago

Having reset issues on a WPC game and pulled the driver board to re-pin a few suspect header pins.
I always avoid any unnecessary work on caps and bridges, but I notice C5 and C11 are ballooning at the top and they concern me a bit.

I can just plug the driver board back in at this point, and if all goes well, leave it as is. Or do I proactively change out these 2 caps? I have the tools to do it properly, but even at that, Snap cap removal is never easy.

Anyways, thanks in advance. I look forward to hearing your opinions on this one

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#2 5 months ago

Seeing more and more of these caps on these boards failing.... If it were mine and you have the skills to do it successfully - I would replace all the caps. Earliest WPC is 30 years old now...

#3 5 months ago

Yup, those caps are failing. I would get rid of them sooner rather than later in case they breach/leak.

#4 5 months ago

Your souffle is almost ready!

#5 5 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Your souffle is almost ready!

Hahaha haha

Just use a lot of solder gently pry the cap sideways on the opposite side of the pin your heating up, let it cool a bit and proceed to the next pin back and forth. At first they don't seem to move much, but you'll quickly get it out of there after switching pins a few times. I recently recapped every board of my fish tales and although time consuming, it's compared to the piece of mind I have now that no board will be damaged in the near future by 30 year old caps leaking all over. As others have said, those caps are already damaged. It's just a matter of time before they are completely dead.

#6 5 months ago

Chris Hibler has a good video on you tube on how to remove these snap in caps...using a wide soldering tip that hits both prongs of the cap...I dont have one of those ,but I use my desoldering gun along with a regular iron and (with help) hit both prongs at the same time...also remove and resolder the old solder before all this...

#7 5 months ago

Thanks for all the answers! Really appreciate it!
You guys swap them with new snap caps for better protection against vibrations, or just put in standard radial caps?

#8 5 months ago

Go standard, radial caps when you can find them. Regular radial caps have less chance of ruining the plating within the holes when changing them. Nichicon is one source for caps that will fit. UVR1E153MRD for the 15000uF, 25V caps, UVR1V103MRD for 10000uF, 35V caps.

The snap cap does not give better protection against vibration, they are used to hold the cap in place during the wave soldering process.

#9 5 months ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Go standard, radial caps when you can find them. Regular radial caps have less chance of ruining the plating within the holes when changing them. Nichicon is one source for caps that will fit. UVR1E153MRD for the 15000uF, 25V caps, UVR1V103MRD for 10000uF, 35V caps.
The snap cap does not give better protection against vibration, they are used to hold the cap in place during the wave soldering process.

Thanks very much!

#10 5 months ago

Is there a way of testing CAPS on board with DMM or do you rely on the cap swelling on top

#11 5 months ago

I'd be changing way more than that. All the Electro Caps will be stuffed or close to it.
Including the Smaller ones on the 5 & 12 volts rails

#12 5 months ago
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:

I'd be changing way more than that. All the Electro Caps will be stuffed or close to it.
Including the Smaller ones on the 5 & 12 volts rails

Yes and if it were mine, I'd be sure to double check C2 at a minimum:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/psa-wpc-driver-board-c2-leak

#13 5 months ago
Quoted from john17a:

Is there a way of testing CAPS on board with DMM or do you rely on the cap swelling on top

A DMM cannot test capacitors (well, not as a standard feature anyway).

You need a special meter called an 'ESR' meter for Effective Series Resistance. This can test most caps in circuit and usually will give a pretty accurate idea of the condition.

In the end though, these boards are 30++ years old and that is far in excess of the caps stated shelf life WITHOUT being used!!!

#14 5 months ago
Quoted from pins4u:

You need a special meter called an 'ESR' meter

If you're interested in getting one, this is the one I use:

ebay.com link: Peak Atlas ESR70 ESR Meter

Although, I rarely actually need to use it. Most of the time when I pull I cap, I'm replacing it anyway.

#15 5 months ago

Just wanted to post a follow-up in the hopes that it helps someone in the future.
I used the methods people suggested in removing all 5 snap caps and didn't damage a single hole.

1. Snipped the leads as close as possible to the PCB with flush cutters
2. Flowed a bit of fresh solder on the leads
3. Used the tips of both the soldering iron and solder pump to hit both leads at the same time.
4. With heat applied to both leads, gently wiggled the cap for about 10 seconds and they fell out.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. Worked out really well!

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