Before I go jumping into replacing bridges and rectifiers like the pinwiki recommends, I wanted to ask your opinion on if I'm going about this the right way. I have refurbished a DM and made the following mods;

-Color DMD (LED)
-New flipper coils (all 3)
-LEDs

I'm not sure if what I'm experiencing is the typical "WPC Reset" issue. What happens with my DM is 90% during a multiball, I get diagonal lines across the DMD with the "buzz buzz" noise and then it goes back to the screen you'd see at the end of a game with the high score listed, it doesn't go through a full reboot. It's actually what a slam tilt switch reset looks like. I adjusted both slam tilt switches to ensure there wouldn't be any contact, but no luck. I tried installing RKahr's Pro daughterboard and that didn't fix it, but it did give me a flashing green and steady red. According to the daughterboard that means 5v went high and low. So here is what I'm wondering;

Given the symptoms that I've described, does it sound like a potential 5v issue or something else? I've been trying to get a reset on camera and will post as soon as I do. However, I'm not finding that my reset is similar to this issue I found on this video https://vimeo.com/109905745

If it comes down to it, my brother does laptop and phone repair and does a lot of micro soldering so I will bring the power board out to him during TG and we will replace the parts, but if there is something else going on that you guys think I should try prior to that, I'm all ears.

Thank you!

I disconnected the slam tilts from J5 and J8 and still got the diagonal lines and the buzz. I had a streak of about 6 games in a row with no reset and thought the disconnected coin door and slam tilt switch fixed it, but alas, I still reset. I don't get it.......

Yes, that's correct. I've found some threads about random slam tilts and all signs point to a wiring problem or a switch problem, probably as a direct result of my hand work on the flipper coils, LEDs or other "fixes". Does this sound like the culprit? I guess I need to know what to look for when activating switches. I know theres a methodical way of doing this, by activating the switches and then referencing the manual but I'm not sure exactly which schematic to follow or how to properly do this test. What am I looking for, exactly?

If I'm going down the wrong path, let me know.

Ok, so......

Watch this video......

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WEQ3Ij7unTwVewvtd54ihzmxV28HrHko/view?usp=sharing

Left sling and upper sling. It has to be a wiring issue in the upper sling, no? A quick look at wiring for both slings looks pretty solid....

Do you suppose it's the upper sling, or is there a way to determine which one it is? Also, could it be a bad diode on the leaf switch that activates the sling?

The only thing that looks potentially out of place is the lead switch on the upper sling as depicted in the photo. I can't tell if that extra metal leaf off the side is supposed to have a wire or diode solered in, but it looks like something was there before. How do I find out if someting is missing from there?

IMG_2921 (resized).JPG

Thanks Pin_Guy

Do you think the lack of the diode and the present way it's wired could be the issue or is there another problem at hand?

The way the others are wired and the way I'm thinking of reworking it is with the power into the switch to the part of the switch that is currently missing the diode. From the a diode down to where the current two white wires are soldered on and a white wire from there to the other leaf switch (which appears to be the last one in the series). Does that make sense? A picture is worth 1000 words, so I attached two. The first is of the the lower right sling wiring and the second is of the sling in question with the odd wiring. Or maybe a video helps; first part of the video is upper sling and last part is lower right sling. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZV459wDb3qfO7FVK91keTzDAc2qJUzFa

Thanks!

IMG_2924 (resized).JPG
IMG_2925 (resized).JPG

In conclusion, I rewired that leaf switch like the other slings and added a diode and the slam tilt issue is gone now. Thanks all!