(Topic ID: 89324)

Operation Demolition Man on Steroids

By jrawlinson_2000

9 years ago


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#1 9 years ago

This will be a log on converting a DM to a Demolition Man on Steroids, the steps involved, the equipment used along the way, issues and challenges as they arise and finally the end result. Oh and some photos / videos as the project rolls on and the post necessitates.

Has anyone done this in the group yet?
If you have questions or suggestions please chip-in.

To start with my task / acquire list looks like this;

1. Purchase DMoS software & Translite (before it gets 'pulled' from the community like CCC) - Done
http://www.frequency.com/video/demolition-man-on-steroids-pinball-full/134526067/-/5-545311
http://www.pinnovating.com/projects_dm.htm
$500

2. Acquire a decent DM – Done
From this forum, thanks André
http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/demolition-man.6610/
£950

3. Play test said machine to ensure all switches, coils and features work – In Progress

4. Install ColorDMD - Done
http://www.colordmd.com/
€389

5. Build suitable PC as interface to P-ROC board
I'm using an Intel NUC as these are small and can be mounted inside and to the cabinet.
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/inte...ore-18ghz-intel-qs77-express-ddr3-2x-hdmi-g-b
Adding SSD, memory, wifi card (so I can remotely control and update the PC) & Windows 7
£336

6. Install DMoS software onto PC

7. Install P-ROC
http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/index.php/products/p-roc/68
$329

8. Full LED conversion
€149

9. Test and trouble-shoot set-up, using initially PC speakers connected to the PC (all game sound/music will now come from the PC)

10. As the internal sound board and speakers are no longer used on a DMoS (sound comes form the PC controlling the game, thus PC speakers or the like), this step will be to upgrade the internal speakers, sub woofer, and install a car power amp to drive them from the PC

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/amplifiers/multi-channel-amps/jbl-gto-3ez-3-channel-amplifier
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/speakers/full-range/4-inch-coax-10cm/jbl-gt6-4
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/subwoofers/12-inch-subs-30cm/jbl-gt5-12

Also to install 2 x Bass Shakers, acts like a shaker motor, I have 2 fitted in Dracula!
http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/...s-Pump-III-Bass-Shaker-4-Ohm?ref=searchDetail

Oh and install playfield-glass anti-rattle tape
£274

11. Install DMoS Translite

12. Enjoy

#2 9 years ago

4. Install ColorDMD - Done
http://www.colordmd.com/
€389

Now fitted, looking good and erm blue...

#3 9 years ago

Cool project. Will be following along.

#4 9 years ago

Sweet project! I'll buy your old translite.

#5 9 years ago

So although I could not dedicate the entire 3-day weekend to pinball (I was told to do some DIY), however I did manage to to the following;

5. Build suitable PC as interface to P-ROC board - Done
I'm using an Intel NUC as these are small and can be mounted inside and to the cabinet.
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/inte...ore-18ghz-intel-qs77-express-ddr3-2x-hdmi-g-b
Adding SSD, memory, wifi card (so I can remotely control and update the PC) & Windows 7

Ok truth be told this was pretty much ready, but I added a wifi card just so I can remote control it without the need to remove the PC form the game if I needed to do any updates

I did make a slight boo-boo as the PC in question does not have an audio out, but does output audio via HDMI, so for testing I simply took the audio out from the monitor and into PC speakers.
However I really dont want a screen in my final machine as such I have ordered a HDMI to audio jack cable

6. Install DMoS software onto PC - Done
I really have to credit Dennis of https://www.facebook.com/Pinnovating his documentation was top-notch!
After 8 steps the Python, software and code were all installed, next to install the hardware.

7. Install P-ROC - Done
http://www.pinballcontrollers.com/index.php/products/p-roc/68
Again top marks for Dennis and the instructions, I did take a before and after photo, the only thing I was concerned about was the fact there was a cable that did not to go into the P-ROC, but did into the old card.
However thinking about where the cable went into I realised that it was likely to be the 'data' cable from the CPU to DMD board and thus no longer needed as the P-ROC would now handle all display output (hence the DMD cable also being moved to the P-ROC)
Finally notice that two connectors from the board above the P-ROC also had a couple connectors that needed moving these I think were flipper buttons (J905 & J906)

I double and triple checked the hardware installation, i.e. looked at all connectors to ensure they were in the correct place and not miss-aligned.

So now to power on the DM and the PC and then to connect the USB lead.

Instructions from Dennis said when the PC wants to install drives for the P-ROC say no and go through a manual process, again this went without a hitch

Its too easy I thought so next I fired up the software on the PC and bingo my DM had become a DMoS, all be it with wires for the PC, HDMI, sound, mouse & keyboard hanging out of it and no translite.... But it worked, except for the colorDMD!

The screen was not display as it should! A quick upgrade to Sigma 2.4 resolved this issue as this version now supports P-ROC.

So I managed to test play the DMoS a bit and very impressed (its a whole new experience, I just love the sound / music and feel of total immersion the game gives), next job to tidy all cables, put PC inside, then the internal speakers and amp.

Note to self the DMoS makes heavy use of GI dimming as such must take out the LEDs around the sling-shots as they flicker, planning to get GI-OCD board
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7

Oh and those keen observers will notice the red flasher on the right ramp remains lit, I am told this is a bug or support issue with P-ROC and all DM/8-driver boards as such I have for now removed the bulb, planning to connect this to the Jet Flasher as per Dennis suggestion.

Hardware Before.jpgHardware Before.jpg Hardware After 2.jpgHardware After 2.jpg Hardware After.jpgHardware After.jpg
#6 9 years ago

If you have any questions let me know. I just converted mine last month and I love it!

#7 9 years ago

The DMoS are out.... I just finished up a DMoS conversation for a customer and here are some pictures of the new look... I gave this machine a totally new look (I stripped the playfield, changed everything to give it a "Blue Ice" look plus added custom UV lighting effects that Pinnovating Pinball added into the code... IT AWESOME) and rule set for this machine... IT'S AMAZING. I will soon be offering these upgrades to DM if you are interested in one, let me know.

Thanks,

Steve
Pinball Refinery

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1 week later
#8 9 years ago

I have DMOS game #2 it is pretty cool

#9 9 years ago

Great review of the setup process! Dennis did a great job on DMoS. Glad you're enjoying it.

Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

Oh and those keen observers will notice the red flasher on the right ramp remains lit, I am told this is a bug or support issue with P-ROC and all DM/8-driver boards as such I have for now removed the bulb, planning to connect this to the Jet Flasher as per Dennis suggestion.

Technical explanation follows:

The line that drives that flasher is coming from the 8-driver board. Some machines with 8-driver boards use that line as the 9th switch column. Others, like DM, use it for a flasher or coil. Your flasher looks like it's staying on (it's actually being cycled very quickly) because the low level software is telling the P-ROC to use it for a 9th switch column instead of for a flasher.

The good news is it's not a hardware issue. It's a one-line change in software, though it does require recompiling the library.

- Gerry
http://www.multimorphic.com

2 weeks later
#10 9 years ago

I have almost completed this project, its now has all the audio upgrades done;

JBL Amp & 12v 30amp Power Supply
Backbox speakers
Subwoofer

And PC installed internally.

I still need to screw-down the 12v 30amp power supply, annoying thing is there is no easy way to do this so may have to use long cable-ties.

As yet there are no Bass rumble units installed, but I have found the 8" monster pioneer sub is enough to shake the cabinet just fine.

I will not be upgrading the GI to LEDs as the DMoS code uses dimming effects, as such the ones I did put in flicker, another option would be the GI OCD board but as yet this has problems with our 50Htz supply.

I will post a video of the project thus far very soon.

But the great thing is its all in the one unit now, i.e no external PC or speakers.

Sub-project will next be to learn pyprocgame and 're-work' Road Show and/or Dr Who.

IMG_20140524_145849.jpgIMG_20140524_145849.jpg
3 months later
#11 9 years ago

Regarding the right ramp flasher, here's the fix to pypinproc that Gerry refers to:

diff --git a/pypinproc.cpp b/pypinproc.cpp
index cae7329..088a5d9 100644
--- a/pypinproc.cpp
+++ b/pypinproc.cpp
@@ -584,6 +584,7 @@ PinPROC_switch_update_rule(pinproc_PinPROCObject *self, PyObject *args, PyObject

        bool use_column_8;
        use_column_8 = g_machineType == kPRMachineWPC;
+       use_column_8 = false;       // hardcoded for WPC aux 8 driver board on DemoMan
        static bool firstTime = true;
        if (firstTime)
        {

I missed the window of opportunity to purchase DMoS, and wish I had known about it when I had started working with a P-ROC in my Demolition Man. I have been able to create a nice menu front-end to PinMAME, allowing me to select a ROM version (production, home/profanity, Cardona's Demolition Time) and configuration (3 ball, 5 ball, tournament mode). It even shows the current GC score for each configuration. Details over on the Pinball Controllers forum.

Note that a similar "use_column_8" change is required for PinMAME. That change is a part of my branch of the PinMAME source on GitHub.

I'll be at Pinball Expo, and would love to help DMoS owners with integrating a menu so they can play the original ROMs, or to fix your copy of pypinproc so the flashers work correctly. I've been using Ubuntu Linux on an Acer C720 Chromebook (<$200) for my setup, but can probably figure out how to get PinMAME compiling under Windows (or dig up a custom build I received from another developer).

-Tom

3 weeks later
#12 9 years ago

Where can I buy the DMOS kit/software/etc? Can't seem to find online

4 years later
#13 4 years ago

Anyone still doing these?

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