Quoted from goingincirclez:
That said, the MiniPro *can* burn authentic 2716 chips. I know this because my Stern MPU-200 had OEM stickered 1980 2716's installed... which I erased (with a UV eraser) and re-used in the speech board. The MPU-200 can be jumpered to use 2x 2732 chips instead of 4x 2716. I recommend this as 2732's are easier to find. Be warned, avoid TI (Texas Instruments) 2732A's as these seem to be very prone to faults and don't like being re-burned reliably, whereas the ST 2732's I had burned, and re-burned, and re-burned without grief.
What definition did you use with the 2716's? Most 2716's I've seen need 25v to program which no version of the minipro can supply, tops out at 21v.
To avoid the issues with requiring erasers that's why I recommended the 2816's they are an eeprom version of the 2716.
Quoted from goingincirclez:
To Slochar's warning though, the MiniPro will NOT reliably "erase" or over-write existing ROMs with different bits, so if you make a mistake, have a problem, or want to salvage & re-use some OEM roms, you'll need a UV eraser.
No burner will. You can overwrite set bits with clears but the only way to set it back is the UV eraser. That's not the intended use of eproms though, they always need erasing via the window and UV light. EEproms on the other hand, can be erased and have to be, the minipro automatically erases them. If you are using the EEprom variety (so far only the 2816 and the 27512 varieties are known to work on this era board - the 256 one might, and apparently other sizes just aren't available) you would only burn it once, since erasing it and reburning isn't going to change anything.
Regular UV erased eproms you can double/triple burn, and some stubborn older ones you have to do this. Any UV eproms I just always burn twice, remove from the zif socket on the burner, clear the buffer, wait ten seconds or so, put the chip back in, then read it in, save, and verify it. Nothing is a worse head scratcher than putting a newly burned eprom in a game and it not working, which in my case leads me to think I made a mistake on writing the software.
This is a myth At this point in time, all vintage eproms are harder to find, but 2532's have been "hard to find" for over 20 years now, according to people in the pinball/arcade communities - but lots of them are out there. None of these older eproms have been made for decades. The myth likely started because Texas Instruments went ahead and screwed up their numbering for a variant on the 2716 - the 2516. The TI labeled 2716 are all goofed up, triple voltages needed to burn or something or a pin in a different place (I forget what....) - but they did go back to the correct numbering scheme on later chips (including the 2732A, which does work... unless you get a bunch of counterfeit ones!). Their reputation was probably mud by then though which is why the 2532 gets a bad rap.
I believed the myth too, and did a lot of hacking and conversion to get 2732's into everything. Then I just built the Bob Robert's adapter and burn them just fine so I don't have to change a lot of jumpers. True, the minipro will not do a 2532 out of the box (there's no reason it can't, a definition file just needs to be added by the maker, all of the pins on the minipro are programmable by the software) - other burners like the QX4 will.
The easiest solution by far if you have stock mpu200 and stock vsu100 is to just use 2816's. No jumper changes, no eraser needed. Chips were a buck or so each. I did have a couple dud ones so I ordered extra (and obviously, I go through a lot of burns anyway so I have to have extras....)
Everyone should be aware that there are LOTS of counterfeit and remarked chips out there on the used market. I always buy from people that will certify that the chips are genuine pulls. Last large buy I bought was 256 eproms from a music warehouse that had pulled them from old synthesizers. Yeah, I had to strip labels and scrape off 200 chip pulls, but they were in great shape (no bent pins). Then I erased them in batches of 40 on my eraser, and I'm good to go for a long time on that size chip.
The reason I'm listing that the 2732 is not recommended for the vsu100 is that the board factory stock is set up for either 2x2716's, or 1x2532 - no trace cuts and jumpers needed. It is strange because normally you can pop a doubled up 2732 into a 2716 socket and it will work, but I believe I tried this and it just didn't. Since I can do either the 2716 equivalent in the 2816 now or 2532's, I just did that rather than hack up my vsu100 trying to get that combo to work.