(Topic ID: 262275)

Only on 2nd game

By PinBallPeteFromSD

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 5 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#3 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Hit the diagnostic button on the MPU, see if the self check fails for the roms or ram

Rare case but I have seen a bad game ROM in a firepower do something similar. Attract and test mode worked fine but the moment you hit the start button the game died. It was failing the ROM test when you pushed the MPU diag button (open the coin door first).

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from PinBallPeteFromSD:

So it does the same in test mode. The 2 top pops lock on, but not in play mode. So replaced the diodes and nothing different.
So there's a small board under the PF with to resistors, and one turned to dust in my hand. Looks to be 1 1/2w and a 330 2w. so I guess I will start with replacing those, since they look to tie into SOL SPEC.SW
I tried the rom test with no luck on how the hell it works.
Thats all for tonight.

When you have the coin door open and hit the MPU's diag button both LEDs should blink twice and the game goes dead. If either or both LEDs turn on solid it is reporting a problem.

I was thinking the game way dying when you hit the start button, but now that I read both posts it sounds like you have a special solenoid problem on the driver board.

Driver board IC6 would be suspect as it is common to both top pops. With the game power off DMM on diode test. Red lead on ground. Black lead touch IC6 Pins 1,2,3,11,12,13. All should be around 0.600. A reading much lower than that is a good indication of a problem. With the solenoid fuse pulled you can use solenoid test and game play test to check the logic gates drawn on the left side of the spec solenoid driver board. They seem to get damaged when a special solenoid stays on too long. The ST1, ST2 etc... are CPU triggers which are only usually used in test mode or maybe special cases. The 'Switch solenoid trigger" is the switch on the playfield.

Also on each locked on special solenoid coil there is usually an electrolytic capacitor that can short out. You can disconnect the cap to see if it stops the coil from locking on. Maybe do that first before diving into the driver board.

The burned up resistors you mention are probably the ones for the flashers in the hotdog shaped large inserts. Stepping up the wattage rating is usually a good idea. One limit currents and keeps the filament warm.

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