(Topic ID: 188809)

One string of lights out, beyond wiring where to start?

By harryhoudini

6 years ago



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Williams_1988_Cyclone_Manual_Schematics_pdf__Security___Read-Only___page_42_of_66_ (resized).jpg
#1 6 years ago

Last leg of refurbishing a Cyclone from the cabinet up, first time doing anything of the sort. I am almost done but I have a few small issues. The biggest being one string of lights is completely out, see the attached image, all yellowed lights are out. So obviously all the red/gray items are the issue. I traced that wire from the playfield and everything looks to be ok, nothing obviously wrong. I figure my first step is to check for power at the plug to the playfield and make sure power is there, if not I have to go back further and see if power is at the board. So what is more? Where do I go from there? I suppose I have to look at the schematic and see what components on the board control that string and then figure out how to test each of those?

The other odd lights that are out aren't the bulb, so I am going to see if those are the holders.

The only other issue, I think, is that the target lights (cats and ducks) are backwards. Haven't looked to see how that happened, assuming it's something I easily mounted or connected backwards.

Also, could someone who knows the game confirm on the game play: The blue 5x multiplier on the playfield starts out lit and blinking in our game. I am thinking that isn't correct but I have no idea where to start with that.

Thanks!

Williams_1988_Cyclone_Manual_Schematics_pdf__Security___Read-Only___page_42_of_66_ (resized).jpgWilliams_1988_Cyclone_Manual_Schematics_pdf__Security___Read-Only___page_42_of_66_ (resized).jpg

#2 6 years ago

Testing the Lamp Rows.
If you suspect a TIP122/102 transistor that drives a lamp row as bad, you can test it:

Remove the backglass and fold down the display, to gain access to the CPU board.
Turn the game on.
After the game boots, press the center red button inside the coin door into the down position. Then press the black button closest to the coin door. Now press the center red button again. Pressing the black button closest to the coin door will move from test to test.
Go to the "All Lamps" diagnostic test.
Unplug the connectors at 1J6 and 1J7 (lower right portion of the CPU board).
Connect your alligator test lead to pin 1 of 1J7. Pin 1 is the right most pin, as facing the board.
Connect the other end of this test lead to one lead of a 555 light socket. You can temporarily get one of these from a playfield lamp (make sure the lamp works first!).
Connect another test lead to the second lead of the 555 light socket.
On the other end of the test lead, clip on a 1N4004 diode, with the banded end away from the alligator lead. Touch the banded end of the diode to pin 1 of 1J6. Again, pin 1 is the right most pin, as facing the board.
The lamp should flash.
Move the diode/alligator lead on 1J6 to the next pin. Again, the lamp should flash.
Repeat the previous step, until the last pin of 1J6 is reached.

If a lamp row tested doesn't give a flashing test lamp, that row is bad (or you have the test diode reversed!). No light or a non-flashing, bright lamp are signs that the respective row TIP122/102 transistor is bad. Test the transistor as described in Testing Transistors and Coils.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm#lamp

#3 6 years ago

This:

"Also, could someone who knows the game confirm on the game play: The blue 5x multiplier on the playfield starts out lit and blinking in our game. I am thinking that isn't correct but I have no idea where to start with that."

is normal. It means you have the 5x set as the threshold for an award (extra ball, usually). It is adjustable in menus. Don't worry about it as you work on your other problems.

Don C.

#4 6 years ago

THANKS!! Testing to commence!

1 week later
#5 6 years ago

wayout440 So I confirmed on the board that the row is out. You say I am confirming the transistor is out, is that the only item that would be the issue? Or could it also be one of the resistors that look to be related (in close proximity on the board)? I read about using a logic probe, but I don't have one. Recall someone saying it is usually the transistor.

Of course I don't have the transistor here (TIP42 I think it was) so I can't test that.

Also, question... the beige/white items that are large rectangles along with each row/column, what are those? The left hand column (which I think might be for GI, but maybe it is for the columns?) of those guys gets fairly hot while the right hand column is not warm at all. This is right above the lighting connectors, bottom right corner of the board.

#6 6 years ago

While it certainly could be something upstream, total row failure as tested is most likely the transistor only. You can test upstream first, but most will simply replace the transistor (of course, have multiples of this transistor on hand in case it fails again)

The large white rectangles are high wattage resistors. When they have a continuous large current going through them, the resistance causes energy to be displaced as heat. This is why they are made this way and is perfectly normal.

#7 6 years ago

Thanks! Been reading more on System11 issues and fixes. Found the "bullet proofing" thread, interesting info there. Can't wait to get this pin finished, been a ground up restoration for 5 years now.

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