(Topic ID: 240694)

On WOZ are the castle door switches normally closed?


By harryhoudini

35 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 5 posts
  • 1 Pinsider participating
  • Latest reply 34 days ago by harryhoudini
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 35 days ago

I'm not meaning electrically (although it may coincide) but what I mean is that "at rest" are the castle doors pushing the plugers down?

I just replaced the switches and springs and it seems as though somehow the effect I've produced is backwards. For some reason the doors are normally being held "back" (against the lock bar) with the plugers on the switch being open. They should be held forward for the ball to hit them and trigger the switch. If I push from behind the door I can hear the switch click closed (plunger down) as if I was hitting it from the front (how it was before I replaced the switches).

Logically, it would seem silly to have the plungers pushed down while at rest and for the ball hitting the door to open the plungers, but I could be completely wrong. However, this is how it seems to be now. I don't see any other way to put this back together, I have a picture of the switch orientation before I took them off (green plungers orientated towards the middle of the bracket).

I feel like it should be the springs holding the doors shut and the ball hitting it works against the spring to push down the plunger of the switch. The motors work against the spring to open the door when the lock bark is moved out of the way. Is that right?

#2 35 days ago

ltg maybe you know?

#3 35 days ago

OK, so upon further investigation it looks to be put together properly. It seems like the springs hold the door closed AND keep the switch plunger pushed in. When the ball hits the door it pushes it back to release the plunger. So the hard part, it seems, is adjusting the springs to match the tension needed to keep the plunger pushed in. It seems like the amount of tension I need to put on them would WAY exceed what the motor was capable of overcoming. I can easily tell that the new switch plungers are much more still than the old ones (which makes sense since the old ones were falsely triggering) but it seems like that extra stiffness requires so much tension on the spring to keep the plunger compressed.

Am I missing something here? The only other possible adjustment I see is the tab which actually contacts the plunger of the switch. It seems like that might be able to be bent just a bit, but definitely doesn't look like a typical adjustment. What else is possibly adjusted? Can't really move any other items like how the door is aligned (lock bar holds it in place), where the switches are placed, etc.

#4 34 days ago

After a bunch of back and forth I adjusted the springs JUST enough to keep the doors closed and the switches closed. Put it all back in the machine and low and behold WAY too much tension on the doors to have the motors open them. If I manually "help" them open when doing the test I can get them to open most of the way but on their own they barely move at all.

Something is definitely wrong, but I can't tell what. It makes complete sense that they redesigned this for YBR as this seems like one of the worst designed mechanisms I've seen in any pin I've worked on. If nothing else the motors just aren't strong enough to overcome what spring tension needs to be on there. I can't imagine how this worked from the factory (literally, can't see how they had it working so I can replicate) but it makes some sense as to how it was working (weak switch plungers made it necessary for less spring tension).

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