Quoted from Whistler:I see that thread is a little older but do you happen to still have any of the replacement plastic bits you had 3d printed available to purchase?
I have a few, and I'd be happy to send you a cam (the larger barrel-shaped part that's missing on your middle cam). PM me your address and I'll send you one to try out.
The biggest problem is the darned springs. If your springs are worn out or "sprung", the cams are not going to work correctly even with all new plastic parts. Your spring looks OK in the picture, but it still could be a problem. I just haven't been able to make a spring that works correctly yet.
The little "tabs" on the spring should be approximately 180 degrees from each other, and the spring should be tight and not have any gaps or spaces between the coils. It should fit on the metal clutch body snugly, and should only rotate freely in one direction when you turn it with your fingers on the clutch body. It should instantly grip and not turn when you rotate it in the other direction. Spring clutches are unique applications of torsion springs, not really using the spring force at all, but only the ability of it to grip or slip on a shaft as needed.
It should look like this picture:
20220116_070040.jpg
Not without a major redesign of the part. There aren't too many ways to independently reset each half of the relay bank. You'd might be able to somehow make it use two solenoid-operated reset banks similar to Gottlieb drop target reset mechs.
It would be a major headache, but if someone did it and it wasn't too expensive, we'd all buy it for our On Beams!
Here's another picture of the clutch assembly for reference.
20220116_065931.jpg
